NigelR32

Sorry guys nothing much to show at all really. I've been busy doing other stuff, plus I cut my thumb pretty badly so cant do anything the slightest bit fiddly, and haven't been able to for a week now.

Hey guys, I was asked a question on my YouTube channel.. "How will you get the weight in the nose with so much visible detail in there"? I can't ignore such questions, so I made a video.. Hope you like it..

GIVEAWAY!! On my channel at "Nigel's modelling bench" on Youtube. I'm giving away the Airscale 1/32 Liberator Instrument Panel set. Closes 19:30 GMT on 8th March 2019

Yep.

OK, I'll take a look....

Just done a review of the new Eduard cockpit set for this kit.. have a look, see what you think??

Ha ha ha...

I've just done a review on a lovely masking set from DN Models to help you make Spotted Ass Ape.

Ha ha.. I was once helping a bricklayer build my garage years ago. He asked me to check the walls for length on each side. I did so and reported back.. "One sides is 10mm longer than the other". He replied... "F*(K*$ng Engineers"!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah he shouted at me!! The jig is easy.. scrap plastic bits and about an hour is all that is needed. Go on.. you can do it lol.

I have good news for you my friend.. have you not seen parts P49 and P53.. they are the aerials you're looking for. P57 and P58 are another option. I have the DN Models mask set for the clear parts.. should make life a lot easier.

Thanks guys, must have been a glitch...

As per the title, Youtube video links appear to be broken. Is this an issue with YouTube, an issue with the site or have they been banned from LSM?

I don't remember exactly now Ernie, but whatever I wrote is what I did. If you need more pics, let me know.

It's not my conversion Ernie.. Avro made them that way.

Hey Ernie.. Good question.. From what I've gathered, it would seem that pretty much everything after mid 1943 had paddle props? I personally think it's more towards early '44, but you are correct.. they were upgraded in maintenance.

Lot of work?? Cuting a piece of plastic, adding a piece of strip and sanding to shape.?? Hardly a lot of work really?? What a coincidence.. I also have 33 years in Aerospace at Rolls Royce and 5 years in automotive engineering at Delphi.

Here you go guys.. this is how I corrected the props on my B-24.. Of course, if you have a spare set lying around from a HKM B-17?? They could be used.

Hang fire Ron.. I'm just uploading a video now on how I corrected the props.

Yeah, or wait for Eduard to produce a Brassin engine set, that'll cost as much as the kit for sure!! I plan to play around a little and perhaps make my own resin engines?? I'm just looking at how to mount them whilst i play with the props.. more on that later.

I have the Trumpeter F4-F engine built up without rocker covers and it falls in the cowlings on the wings with room to spare?? I would imagine there may be a need to shave a little plastic out of the cowlings with the covers fitted, but not much??

I am about to do a review of the Eduard cockpit set compared to Peters set for the Lancaster, chalk and cheese is all I'm saying. I pre-ordered the Eduard set hoping it would have some missing parts from the HK cockpit, but it is VERY basic. I don't think Peter does a B-17 IP because he likes to do accurately correct stuff. The IP in that kit is way off on shape due to the round nose, so if Peter did an accurate IP it would look odd, this isn't fact, just my opinion.

Just playing with plastic parts guys.. I can't do any modelling as I cut my thumb big time and can't hold a knife accurately. Looking at pics on Google, I think i have found another issue concerning the engines that could be fooling us.. the engines are too far forward on the kit, the front face of the front cylinders appears to sit just behind the cowling? So... we can fit a correct sized engine with the correct sized gearbox on the nose, it just needs to go further back. Now, remind me, what should the magnetos look like on the B-24?

Yeah.. if someone made a 1/32 M-38, or 1/32 GPW or any 1/32 vehicles...Arrrgghhhh

My only advice Ron is to use sprue goo made from HK sprue if youre extra fussy,like me. And the most important.. leave it for at least three days between every coat of SG, filler, paint or whatever. I must have filled some rivets at least four times, but they just kept coming back with shrinkage.

Hello guys.. I finally got my wing corrections sorted, just like Yrjo. It's not easy, and it doesnt help that it's all floppy and bendy. i put sanding sponges inside the wing, but it still feels like the plastic could crack whilst rivetting?? Upper repair, where dinghy hatch used to be.. Underside where incorrect landing lights were. Not the neatest job in the world, particularly the underside, but it's done now. So, how did I do it? I scribed using a Trumpeter scriber first up against a taped in position rule. Then I chased the lines out with a Tamiya (Olfa) scriber. I used a 0.75 pitch rivetting wheel to mark out the rivets then used a pin to deepen the holes and round them up. All in all, pretty time consuming and to be honest,quite boring!!