CANicoll

This review came about when I went to reorder a refill for my trusty (and very often used) Tamiya tape 6mm tape dispenser. Somehow when I was on SprueBrother's website I also ran into the ZM brand of tape, which retailed for 1/3 the cost of the Tamiya tape. A 5-pack of 6mm ZM tape sells for $4.80, a single 5mm spool is $1.00 while a single pack of the Tamiya tape retails for $3.00. SprueBrothers does not have a multi-pack of the Tamiya tape for sale, and I have not found a multi-pack of the Tamiya tape anywhere. Since this tape is something I tend to run through pretty quickly, I wanted to see what differences there are between the two tapes and if I might save a bit of money. I use all three of the Tamiya sizes, but seem to run through the 6mm the fastest. Here are the retail packages: Looking at the tapes themselves, they look and feel (and smell!) the same. They are the same size, to my eye anyway: The Tamiya tape has a white center, while the ZM cardboard center is black. In the picture below, the Tamiya tape has the green tab, while the ZM's tab is yellow. The both seem to have the same opacity, and same/similar stickyness. Applying the tape both act and feel the same way. Both seem to have a sharp edge and are equally (in)elastic - they both stretch about the same, before tearing. That is, they hardly stretch at all. What I was not able to test for, in a short period of time, is how the adhesion ages over time - does the ZM lose its stickiness over time? I don't know, but the longest I leave tape on a model is a few weeks and that is usually for masking a canopy. I also use the tape to hold down masking materials, or for masking, but that is literally for minutes. My takeaway at the moment is that both tapes are equally useful. As I use the ZM tape on my current build, I'll update this review as appropriate. If anyone would like to add their own experiences with both/either tapes, please do! Chris

Loki, my rescue cat, often voices her own opinions on things.

Just curious, why did you sell the Eduard 1/48 kits? Prefer to concentrate on the larger scale aircraft? I have to say, moving from the 1/32 Revell kit to the 1/48 Tamiya ME 262 is a HUGE shock. The Tamiya kit is SO SMALL!!! CN

Really nice work, Gary, and love the attention to detail. Cockpit looks terrific, even the tiny bits! Regarding the pilot figure, what about moving the focus forward? As has been noted - the pilot would be facing forward, so why not move his mate to the front of the aircraft? I have a few of the Eduard 109s (1/48) in my stash and am considering doing those next, or maybe a brace of mustangs... You have me leaning towards the 109s, however. You have so much good work going on here, its hard not to try and follow on what you have been doing. Very inspiring! Chris

Martin's pictures got me thinking about the finish, so tried something I have never tried before and that is an overall white wash to tone down the paint/decals and try to effect faded paint. Used a Flory Light Weathering Wash over a matte finish. Used a wide brush to put on the initial coat, let it sit for a bit, then continued to brush some to even out the puddles. Let that sit for a few minutes, then wiped with a very lightly dampened paper towel (and in some cases, a slightly damp wide brush). Reasonably happy with the effect, but definitely need more practice with this. Thoughts? Chris

Yeah, Gary - exactly. The aircraft we see now, have been through an awful lot so you are right - is this how the aircraft REALLY looked? I remember the excitement when the HK Lancaster which was oil-canned beautifully (I think anyway), as well as the AMUR P-51D flaps. But how to achieve that on a 'regular' model? I'm not willing to give it a go, at this point anyway. Thanks Mike! Just plodding along. Chris

Love it Martin, thanks!!! I love to see how the actual seams and skin look. Thank you for posting. Chris

Thank you gents! Gary, I didn't realize the Me262s had their seams puttied, like the Mustang wings. That certainly explains a lot of the visual on the aircraft. Rob, appreciate the pictures since I've not been able to get out to the Smithsonian to see the one there. The one in Pensacola is very glossy! BUT you did get me motivated to search their website and I think I found the subject for the 1/48 version I'm building. The Tamiya box actually has these decals included. Peter - hope to get some build time in this weekend!

Quick update - got a matte coat on to seal in the decals and provide some bite for the weathering. I've hardly noticed panel lines on the ME-262s so am going to concentrate more on fading the paint. There are also so few access panels so not much done in the way of washes. There are quite a few stencils on the aircraft, but also very difficult to see with the camo. Here is the after-decaling. Also drove myself crazy with the Uschi lines for the antenna wires as well as the canopy retaining lines. Still have some clean-up to do. The canopy lines (.003) are so thin that they really are not noticeable. Just to the left of the arrows. Worth it? It is one of those things where I know the lines are there (unless I forget and run my finger through them!). Also started on a 1/48 Tamiya Me-262 A-1a - build thread to come. Things are SO SMALL in 1.48 scale!!! Those canopy hinges are HUGE, but I didn't want to mess with the clear plastic to shave them down. Also kind of figured they are pretty hard to see in general. The wing root seam is pretty pronounced on this side - will have to do something about that...

Gary, I use a very fine-tooth razor saw to remove the clear parts from the sprue - 72 teeth or better. I get a flush cut and no stress cracks. Cockpit is looking GOOD and I am very envious of those seatbelts. I never can get the stitching or lettering to come out so clearly. Chris

Peter, Looks terrific and the color research always adds a big positive in my mind. "Why is this color used, and not that one" is usually an interesting exercise (thinking of the Lou IV Mustang pictures and the ongoing debate of are the colors blue or green). It is also what makes following your builds so interesting. Very happy to see (and hear) that the chemo effects are lessening, and that you are able to adjust and continue the high-quality work you are well known and respected for. Also very happy to see that no one is immune to the 'I wish I had done this first' phenomena. One thing I do follow is your build strategy which has helped me in the past to avoid certain problems. The light band on this aircraft just gave you time to continue your masking skills! I can't remember an aircraft where I painted the light band, masked over it, and continued with the rest of the aircraft. Still working on that one! The Whirlwind is one of those iconic designs and I'm delighted you are doing the build. Looking great! Chris

Catching this late, but have a question, I have not heard mention anyone using a primer underneath the AK paints. Does the AK paint have such amazing adhesion to the plastic that it can withstand masking without lifting, without using a primer base? Like Peter, I'm very happy to skip steps if I can. I'm currently using the Vallejo Model Air paints which I find very strong, over a primer base. Huge caveat there. But very unhappy at the color accuracy. Love the MRP paints, esp that I don't have to thin them and their coverage is terrific. I have gotten to the point where I use a primer as a matter of course. Thank you for a very detailed review! Chris

Me too.

Folks, I'm on the SB site and needing to replenish my tape supplies. The ZM tape is incredibly cheap so I wonder how the tape compares to the Tamiya tape? Has anyone tried the ZM tape? Chris

This review was very helpful! And SprueBrothers does now carry the complete Artscale line. Can't wait for my new blades to arrive. Chris

Rob, Thanks and I noticed that I missed adding in the armored glass which likely would have raised the windscreen slightly. A victim of me doing multiple builds at the same time, I thought the armored glass was for my other build. This build has gone on for so long I've lost track of where I was and where various parts were. I'm usually much better organized than this! I spent most of yesterday on the decals, which went on quite well and settled into the panel lines very easily with a little bit of MicroSet. Taking stock of all of the stencils for this aircraft - there are a LOT! Today will spray a clear coat and get started on the weathering. Chris

Peter, let me know and I can post some to you, of each of the diameters. I'm sure I have more than I can possibly use.

Peter, I have the Uschi .001, .003 and .005 thicknesses. Just SOOO easy to use. And it...STRETCHES!!!! Seriously, I bang into the antennas so many times. This saves me from breaking antennas or the lines.

Monofilament I have as well, but the Uschi is great because it stretches when I inevitably smack my hand or finger across it... And that only happens 5 or 6 times during a build!

Thank you all! I need to get better at navigating through the site rather than just jumping to topics, as I just saw this. Wonderful to be part of such a terrific community and thanks for letting me be a part of it! Chris

A bit of progress this afternoon. The windscreen actually faired in pretty easily, and then I added some of the camo to it on the plane. The fit isn't fantastic as you can tell - there is a bit of a step. Added the OOB radar antenna's which attached a lot easier than I expected. Still kind of amazed at how close to the firing arc of the nose guns these antenna are (thanks Martin for the pics!). Taped the radio antenna cable onto the tail temporarily until the adhesive completely dries from the tail to the antenna mast. Using the Uschi .005 flexible thread for the radio antenna, and will use the .001 for the canopy retaining cables. I prefer the Uschi over EZ Line as the latter is flat (which does have its uses). It also doesn't seem to have an outer sheath - I have cut EZ Line only to have the center separate from the outer part. That's it for tonight. Hope everyone in the Eastern US is safe after the storm. Chris

Who knew something as simple as 'razor blades' would be so bloody complicated? I use #11 and #3 blades primarily, in soft handles that won't roll when I put them down. The #3s are like 2/3rd size #11s, which come in very handy sometimes.

Scott, you may have already used these folks, but I've had really good luck with the Micro-Mark #11 blades - being super sharp and staying that way for a while. 100 are $21. They also sell a box of 15. I like to use a fairly wide variety of blade styles like the ones found on their site here. Stay safe! Chris

Thanks Peter and Martin. Martin - excellent pictures, wow! I appreciate the pics and will be studying them. I love this very helpful community. Chris

Thanks Carl, I'm hoping for the same but think the windscreen will be ok. I can fudge the camo on the rest of the canopy by leaving it open (it swings way off to the side. Gary - Not too far, but have to work on the wing-root gap still. A bit of CA should close it up nicely. Looking forward to weathering which will also hide all sorts of evils! I saw on Instagram a guy is building a Mustang but doing it all as a polished aircraft - one thing I have not tried yet. That may be my next build.