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JeroenPeters

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Everything posted by JeroenPeters

  1. Here are the resin Radu Brinzan Wikingerschiffe.
  2. Started drawing the oil tank that sits on top of the Jumo 211 engine. Only on the later D and G Stuka models. For this I had to cut off and sand down the radiator that sat on top of the Jumo 211 engine I printed, but what was designed of the ju87B model.
  3. Prepping all the parts. Adding brake lines, PE details, etc.
  4. I know it looks like no progress, i prepped all the slats, ailerons, gear, ready for paint. Also adding the Eduard exterior set which makes a difference.
  5. Did some 3d work on the rudder pedal installation. I can print this for both planes.
  6. Building the two pits side by side. The Trumpie pit is loving the 3d printed parts. Looks like oxygen bottles are next.
  7. Thnx! Cool stuff right? Expensive, but they keep their value. Just takes a long time finding pieces. Especially if you want a good price.
  8. Managed to trade my pressluft gauge for the proper sauerstoff one. Now its perfect. I’m 3d designing a ficture for it to attach it to the model base. And i meed to Paint the screws black.
  9. Correct. Just added it (which was easier than i feared) and printing now
  10. Here we go. A bit overdone, but I'd rather have too much expression and sand it away, than the other way around.
  11. Turning my attention to to the prop blades. These are the VS111 as used on most late Ju-87D's and later models. They were all wood and are a variation on the VS11 that were also used on the Ju-87D. Blade length is approximately 1480mm and diameter of the prop-circle was about 3260mm. I'm writing this mostly as a note to self It's difficult to get decent profiles, but I think this looks ok. Both the Hasegawa prop and Trumpeter's are of incorrect shape. The more I dig in the Trumpeter kit, that at first sight appears to be more detailed, the more I like the Hasegawa kit. The Trump kit has way to simplified detail and shape guessed interior and engine. Using decals on the prop blades is more correct than spraying them. You might want to deliberately achieve to silvering These VS111 blades were fixed and not variable. Only thing I need to find is the exact angle they stood. And I need to draw the wave shaped metal protection strip at the leading edge.
  12. Gotta have the Yahu ip’s. Luckily my local hobby store had 2 in stock
  13. Perfect. Original oxygen panel. Might have to change the pressluft gauge, but will have to look for a proper dial. For now this is fine.
  14. Fresh from the printer The seat thickness is real to scale so… paper thin and fragile.
  15. I was not happy with the seats. Not in the Aires set, Hasegawa nor Trumpeter. Just too thick. Undersized. and incorrect shape. I found some good images of a relic seat online, including measurements. Threw these in AI 3D software and tweaked a little.
  16. just for fun. Two stray cats looking at the playing kids. Took some 3D modelling to get them to my liking.
  17. Since i have few to no knowledge on the Stuka at all, i have work to do. LSP member Antonio Argudo shared his dropbox with me (very useful) and I’m accumulating books. Just got this one in the mail. There is so much non standard on this plane, it feels like i’m really starting everything from scratch.
  18. Cracked on with the nose. 3D printed Bombsight installed. Polished the nose glass one last time. It doesn’t get better than this.
  19. So... managed to score this oxygen instrument - panel from the left side of the cockpit wall. Still has most of its RLM66 paint. I might have both instruments in my stash. Need to check. This will go perfect with this build. Not sure on how I'll mount it, but I'll figure something out.
  20. Started cutting resin on the Aires cockpit for the ju-87D. Warped like a banana. But nothing some boiling water won’t fix. With 2 stuka’s on the go and the 262, the bench will get worse.
  21. Just recieved these AK paint markers. Should be handy for details. And reprinted the engine at 98% size which makes fit the Hasegawa fuse better.
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