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JeroenPeters

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Everything posted by JeroenPeters

  1. Sprayed some surfacer on the printed bomb sights. Pretty happy with the result.
  2. A bit of a shitty pic but the end detail really is better than just a flat surface.
  3. Thnx! I use Zap a Gap. Love that stuff. The light is from Amazon. Brand: Bravzurg.
  4. Other than not reading the label on the resin bottle before pouring: no :))
  5. Just printed the flap endcaps on my new printer IMG_0276.mov
  6. Just installed my new printer. The Anycubic m7 Pro. And wow… IMG_0277.mov
  7. 40 dollars!! No way!! I live about 10 minutes from the Aviationmegastore.com They have all the kits you can dream of, but not the Hase Stuka. Enjoy! I have my next projects lined up: Me262 and Tempest on the bench. The He162 and then Me163.
  8. That Stuka is my holy grail kit.
  9. In the meantime started cleaning up the parts for the gear and resin wheels. The 3d printed gunsight is very delicate. While snipping of the supports i managed to damage the power cable. Made a replacement piece of cable from a piece of support. You can see some thick glue where i messed up. Will sand this down as soon as it had hardened.
  10. In the meantime I'm also working on the engine. Hardly any info exists (or can be found) on the oil tank positioned on the rear of the engine. I'll see what I can draw based on what I can find...
  11. The shoe shaped end rails are included in the kit. Indid 3d draw the flap ends. The flaps can actually be moved and hinge in the right place now. I extended them half way and opened the radiator flaps. Now i need to make the two little stubs on the flap that actually push the radiator flaps up during movement. If that makes sense
  12. Anyhoo… this is what i’m fiddling with:
  13. Back to the flaps... Very complicated design indeed. Check this video. See how the radiator flaps open and close on the flap movement. This means I should actually keep the radiotor flaps closed, if I pose the flaps fully extended. Or... extend the flaps half-way. And then there is the question. How do I 3d model the end rails of the flaps. Like in the photo above, or with the 'shoe' like in the video? I don't see the 'shoe' shape in this drawing either:
  14. Installed the inner frame. A real pain! Also assembled the 3d printed and resin nose. The fit to fuselage is nice. But i will pose it on the ground.
  15. Aaahh.. i never make them smaller. No need. But still weird. Should work fine…
  16. Hmmm. i always shoot pics with my iphone and immediately upload them to the forum. What platform and type of inages are you trying to upload?
  17. no. Ships the 10th of january
  18. Bought some paint masks today. I can alter the serial to P7111 and the codes i can cut myself with my mask cutter. Started to install the inner framing of the canopy.
  19. Baby steps. Working on the canopy frame. This had to be painted prior to installing for obvious reasons
  20. Added the flange to the vacform hood. Also installed a new light above the bench. Makes a world of difference!
  21. Took a lot of test fitting, sanding and adjusting to get the nose guns to fit properly.
  22. The canopy is fully masked inside and out. In pictures i can see the edge of the canopy hood needs a flange. The top of the windshield still needs a mirror.
  23. The vacform canopy has been cut and cleaned. Now masking time. Inside and out.
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