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EVERYTHING UKRAINE GROUP BUILD IS NOW UNDERWAY.

1:32 Hasegawa P40 E "Dottie II"


rieser
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Shelf of doom build back on the bench ...

 

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Underside "Sky Type S-Gray (71-021)" started with XF-80 Royal Light Grey undercoat, followed by random mottles/scribbles of XF-19 Sky Grey; a 4:1 mix of XF-2 Flat White and XF-19; XF-12 JN Gray; and some left0ver "RLM 02 (1:2:4 mix of XF-2, XF-22 RLM Grey, XF-57 Buff).

 

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Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Cheers Cees.  Although I spent a lot of time trying to fill and blend all the inserts, the paint has shown up some very average construction results.

 

Bevan:  some cockpit pics...

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... and some others...

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hoping for some topside colour tomorrow...

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Cheers Gents.  The XF-80 undercoat showed up some very average construction so on went some more Mr Surfacer...

 

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Not really a fan of tablecloth preshading, but am looking for a way of adding surface detail without using the rivet wheel.

 

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Going back to something I first saw demonstrated by a guy called Anis some years ago (thanks Anis).  Now quite the norm with many WWI subjects.  0.7 mm AIZU micro masking take laid down before another layer of mottled greys...

 

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More colour tomorrow weather-permitting.  Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Tape off reveals a very cartoon-like result.  This should soften with a little bit of work.  Perhaps the 0.4 mm  AIZU micro masking tape would help too.  

 

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Bogus line through the shell ejection chute panels.

 

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No colour - weather wasn't permitting.  Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Cartoon effect toned down by overspraying with the underside colours...

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Anyone know whether the rest of the wheel bays would most likely be interior green or the underside grey?

 

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More tape...

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Some Humbrol Maskol thinned with water and applied with a piece of foam...

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Some light colours...

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A 4:1 mix of XF-2 Flat White and XF-55 Deck Tan in the Dark Brown areas, and some left-over "faded RLM 71" (2:2:1 XF-61 Dark Green, XF-58 Olive Green, XF-22 RLM Grey) in the Dark Green areas...

 

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Tape and Maskol removed...

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Have to say a big thanks to a guy called Bera Karoly for the inspiration to try this.  He's been posting some very interesting weathering stuff on Face Book.  Hope this sample link works.  https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202485358044637&set=pcb.10152361523279821&type=1&theater

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Sprayed some Floquil Old Silver into the wing roots and did the Maskol thing again, followed by some XF-4 Yellow Green.  Camo colours went on over that.

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Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Cheers Gents.

 

Alan:  I can't claim any credit for these "techniques" as they've been used by many others before.  Yes - it is fun, but it certainly adds time and a little extra in cost to the build.  My biggest challenge it to retain the underlying prep work when applying the paint.  Yet to find the balance there as the Tamiya acrylcis were thinned about 80% with Tamiya lacquer thinner, and sprayed with an Aztek A470 fitted with the 0.3mm tan tip at about 20psi (won't spray below that).  The combination results in the colours laying down in a "spotty" fashion, meaning that I have to put more paint on than I want to fill in between the "spots".  Maybe a different paint/airbrush combination would improve the painting stage.

 

First markings using Montex Super Mask "P-40E REVELL" (item K32046):

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The mask was trimmed down to help fit it more easily.

 

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XF-4 Yellow Green was sprayed first to cover the green/brown areas and give an even base for the yellow...

 

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... 4:1 mix of XF-3 Flat Yellow and Gunze H413 RLM04 Yellow ...

 

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... some very light sanding should knock the rough edges off the lettering.  Not sure about the shape of the "9" - wondered whether there is a corner missing from the inside bottom-right of the "hole".

 

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Big thanks to Mike Rinaldi and Diego Quijano for pushing me to try the indoor pics thing.

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Thanks Gents.

 

More markings.  Tried the Montex masks, but it became clear that they are designed to be used before the camo colours go on.  As I did it the wrong way around, I ended up with asymetrical halos around the stars, so the markings and wingtips were sanded back and repainted.  I had masks from Mal Mayfield that I'd asked him to cut based on the kit decal sizes.  These were much larger than the Montex masks, and where Montex has you apply the small markings to the fuselage and the large ones to the wings, Hasegawa has you do the reverse.  And then it turns out that Montex makes two sets that include "Dottie II" - one for the REVELL kit (which I used), and one for the Hasegawa kit.  Test-fitting Mal's masks as per the Hasegawa instructions seemed to indicate that the small markings were too small for the wings, and the large ones too large for the fuselage.  Now completely confused by Montex, Hasegawa, too many Tamiya lacquer thinner fumes, and an inability to determine what should go where, I decided to use Mal's big masks on the wings, and small ones on the fuselage.  Apologies to those in the know.

 

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The confusion turned to frustration when I couldn't decide whether the star should line up with the wing leading edge or the panel line.  Neither the Squadron "In Action" nor the "Walkaround' was of any help so I went with the leading edge.  Apologies if I went the wrong way here too.  Fitting and refitting the components of the mask resulted in small overlaps at the edges of the star.  Hoping that these will disappear under a flat coal.  I didn't manage to fit the masks to well enough to get the star points to meet the edge of the circle either.

 

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Comments, criticism, words of wisdom about US markings very welcome as I'd like to build more US subjects - and avoid any repeat mistakes.  Cheers, Ralph.

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