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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Sopwith Camel, 1:8 Hasegawa


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A few more photos.  Things are moving along smoothly The washers for the engine bolts didn't work out, the washer OD was to large and didn't look scale.  That spare box just keeps getting bigger and bigger and bigger.  

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TOMc

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"she was a clean machine and kept her motor clean"  except for a little wash on the aluminum nuts and bolts. The engine is a nice piece of work and reminds me of an old shovel-head I rode for a while.  When the motor spoke it made the sound of melodious thunder.  Question... When the air intake valve opens it allows air in, directly from the atmosphere.  The fuel / oil proportioning injector pump is located below the magnetos.  What I am unable to figure out is where the fuel is introduced into the cylinders.

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Most of the fuselage rigging is run out.  It's slow work with the tweezers but I haven't broken anything nor have I gotten my fingers all tangled up and glued to the inside of the fuselage.  Where's good mouse when you need one, it be about the right scale.

TOMc

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The kit comes with twine and strand wire for the rigging and all the material is first rate.  I plan on running as many copper fuel lines as possible They should make the cockpit a little more interesting.

 

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The fuel lines are in as well as the finished instrument panel.  Thanks for the tip regarding the color base for the toggle switch.  I added spacers to all the gauges and I believe this is correct, they also give the instruments more 3D.  I am getting plenty of practice with the tweezers as the cockpit is getting crowded.  Nothing like a little mindful model building to keep your head on straight.

TOMc 

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The Idea of the fuel gauge sight glass lines run between the fuselage bulkhead and the ribs was to get them out of the way.  As I add the ribs it turned out not to be such a good idea.  But thanks for the warning anyway.  With the tubing on the inside the pilot now has a place to hang his sweat rag.  Building this air plane gives me a great sense of amazement, knowing that every part of it was an invention.

TOMc       

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The Fin, Rudder and Elevator Assemblys are finished and I am now working on the center part of the upper wing.  There is quite a bit of woodwork to be dealt with but the spars ect. clean up real nice and only need some minor filing.  The parts fit so well that superglue holds it all together quite well.  The purchase of this kit was a risk as it is expensive but the clear and large assembly instruction, full scale structurial drawings and pictorial parts list have made it alot less stressfull.  It is a good thing that Hasegawa includes quality wood (Japanese Cypress) and plywood with the kit as balsa would not hold up with a model of this size, least of all not with me.  My next model will be in 1/32, now that should be an adventure.  I have read many of the Forums and I am amazed at the detail and fantastic paint work of the 1/32 models both finished and under construction, especially some of those ejector seats.  They set a pretty high bar.        

 

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   Thank you Mish for the compliment.  When I was just a child building one of my first models I would, on ocashin display my temper and frustration.  My mother, the wise old sole that she was said to me  "you had better learn patients young man".  I took her advice to hart and have practiced patience ever since. Although ithe practice has devaloped into one of ZEN I still build models and practice the meaning of her words.

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   The wood construction and rigging for the center part of the upper wing is finished.   Hasegawa did not provide enough thread for the rigging, probably about half of what is needed for the complete model.  That was not a problem as I had a spool of 30ml Polyester thread left over from my stuff that floats days.  If you ever have to use cotton, hemp or polyester for a model, run it through some beeswax or even an old candle.  It will not only lubricate the thread but will eliminate fuzz, wipe the ends with superglue and you are ready to make a sail or sew a sock or something. I have decided to eliminate construction of the extended 15"ea. L & R wings. Emily made it quite clear that I will never be able to display this monster in all its out streatched glory, at least "not in this house".  So I will build a 15"X15"X33" display case.  The advantages are obvious no dust, overhead LED lighting, access for close inspection and a happy wife..

TOMc

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  The Tail Wing assembly alignment and installation was right on.  Now to snake all that rigging to its proper destination.  Can you beleave that all the control surfaces were operated with rope. Ya I know, crazy, but there it is, rope.   If you ever build this kit, remember that the parts must be installed by and with the correct measurements, with this kit measurments are critical.  The reason that I like modeling so much is that it can teach me so much about myself.  If I listen and pay attention to the work at hand the result will come out the way I want it to, even if I down't know just what It is that I want. I ordered a manual for the Vickers 1915 model off ebay and it hasn't arrived yet.  I built it anyway.  Emily said " why wait for the manual, you never listen to my instructions" .  The twin Vickers machine guns look great right out of the box except for the cocking return springs, I think that is what they are . I replaced them with real springs from the magical and bottomless spair part box.   I say magical because I realy don't remember putting those springs in there and I am sure that I did not.  I say bottomless because if I need 22 screws there are 22 screws in the box not 21 screws, not 23 screws but 22 screws.  Sometimes It gets a little freakey around here. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

   I have been working on bits and pieces, finishing up on the Vickers gun sight, wing struts and landing gear assembly.   Wood requires prep work like sanding and multiple coats of paint and that takes time.  I'll share with you my method of  applying  superglue.  From a roll of wax papper I cut small squares, about 2" each, add a couple of drops of super glue then use piano wire of various diameters to transfer the glue from the wax paper to the object to be glued.  There is little waste and I get just the amount that I want.  The piano wire is kept clean by scraping the dried glue off with an exacto knife.  I have been using the same wire and the same blade for the past two years.  Its odd, what we think about while waiting for the paint to dry.

 

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youngtiger1

  A finished model of this size is a thing to behold.  Aside from learning something about the mechanix of WW 1 aviation.  I have gained a great respect for its aviators.  I down't know about you but when I build a model I become a part of it or maby it becomes a part of me.  When this 1/8 scale camel is finished it will be easy to climb in and fly it away.  If you want to try this scale, Hasegawa made a Fokker DR-1 that sells for about 1/2 the price of a Sopwith Camel and it even comes with an extra wing.

TOMc

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