Fokker Dreidecker

[Umlaufmotor]

Hi, thanks for your kind words.

You may of course copy the aluminum paint technology ........................
Please transfer me hundreds of dollars per copy to the following bank account: ..................

It continues with the back wall.

Here the laces.
First I tried it with copper wire 0.15 mm.
Is too thick.

 

With 0.10 mm copper wire the thing works.
 

 

It is important that the copper wire is annealed over a candle flame.

This has two reasons:

First, the wire is very soft and it can be very easy to bend.
Second, the copper wire is much darker and the copper color disappears.

[Umlaufmotor]

Now for the seat belts.
I use paper tape for this model of "RB Productions".
I like these things, they look very real in scale 1/32.
The metal buckles are primed with Mr. Metal primer.

 

 

After then paint with Gunze RLM02.

 

 

The belts should look a little used.
The metal buckles were carefully scratched with a very fine steel wool.
Be careful, it's quickly polished off a little too much color.

 

 

So that the metal does not shine, it is sealed with semi-gloss clear.

 

The belts themselves are treated with a highly diluted light brown oil paint.

If the belts are factory restated, they are painted with turpentine.

So that the paper is soft and the belts can be bent much better in place.

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

The seat is fixed to the rear wall to the same screw points as the original.
A 0.4 mm hole was drilled through the seat and the support.
As a retaining bolt a small resin rivet was used.

Here in these pictures it's just stuck, not glued.

(On these pictures is very clear to see, how thin the seat has been sanded down.)

 

Servus

Bertl

[Grant]

Bertl,

 

I've just read through your build and, after having picked up my jaw from the floor, have to say that this is brilliant modelling, real modelling !

 

Amazing and it's nice to see that it's being accomplished with something other than a Wingnut WIngs kit too.  So, any converts to the Roden camp, please follow me to my store !!!      

[Ssasho0]

Good start Bertl, thank you for the FREE tips.

I know this is only the start and you are just warming up, so I will just say WOW!!!!. Otherwise I will run out of superlatives too fast

Best regards,

Sasho

[LindsayT]

Bertl,

 

How did you tie off the copper wire when joining the canvas to the frame? It looks like you've only done one loop, and of course there's no loose ends. Looks perfectly realistic.

 

Lindsay

[Jamme]

Fantastic job !

Cheers

Jamme

[Umlaufmotor]

Thank you all for the flowers, friends!


@LindsayT:
Here is a picture of the back wall backside.

I had to start in several places with the lacing. Every beginning and end of each lacing were glued with superglue.

 

Servus

Bertl

 

[Umlaufmotor]

Now to the control column.

In contrast to the Dr.1 series, the Dreidecker prototype has no gun trigger.
The MG triggers are removed from the kit part.
Three small holes indicate the screws for the wood handles.

 

On the bottom of the gas handle two 0.15 mm holes are drilled.

In these holes, the Bowden cables to the carburetor are attached.

 

[Umlaufmotor]

Although we do not need the gun trigger's, but we need the Schnirps-knopf (ignition breaker.

These little thing is manufactured from a variety of plastic waste.

 

 

 

 

 

At the back is a hole for the electrical cable to the ignition interrupter housing on the engine.

 

 

Done, the little thing is in its place.

 

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[LindsayT]

Incredible!

 

Thanks for posting a picture of that lacing, Bertl. Much appreciated.

 

Lindsay

[Dave J]

Another Crazy build Bertl... Love the detail that you are adding.

[Umlaufmotor]

Thank you, Lindsay and Dave!

[Umlaufmotor]

We need a tachometer with our Fokker V.4. This is not included in the kit.

As a template I use the tachometer from the WNW Hansa Brandenburg-kit (kit Part Nr.:47).

 

 

The case of our tachometer is made ​​entirely of plastic waste.

A 0.3 mm hole serves as the connection of the tachometer shaft (red arrow).

 

 

The dial is made ​​from a very thin sanded WNW plastic waste.

 

 

The housing is painted with Tamiya semi-gloss-black.

 

 

The decal also comes from WNW.

 

 

The glass disc was punched out of a plastic bag.

 

 

The instruments Bezel comes from HGW.

 

 

The glass and the brass bezel are stuck with Vallejo Still Waters.

 

 

The gold rim around the Instruments-face was presented with Bare Metal Foil.

 

 

The adjustment knob was created from a piece of 0,5mm brass wire.

 

 

The bracket (red arrow) is a piece of 0,6mm brass wire.

 

 

I used as a template Achim Engels Fokker EV built.

 

 

Looks cool, this little tachometer - eh? :-)

 

Servus

Bertl

[Jamme]

Incredible job !!!!!

Cheers,

Jamme

[DougN]

Amazing work Bertl!  I always enjoy watching make a masterpiece out of some scrap sprues.

Doug

[JeroenPeters]

Best build I've seen this year.

(maybe last year too

Wow..

[Umlaufmotor]

Thank you all so much for your kind words.

Here the pre-painted control column.
I used a mixture of about 90% Tamiya semi-gloss black and 10% light gray.

The wooden handles were painted with Gunze radome, the wood grain was made with oil paint burnt sienna .

Then the handles were painted with a thin layer of Tamiya clear orange.

It was then shaded with black oil paint to highlight the wells of the three screws on the wooden handles.

 

Servus

Bertl

 

[Umlaufmotor]

It continues with the interior of our Fokker V.4 triplane prototypes.
Werner Voss did a test flight in July 1917 on the Fokker Factory Airfield in Schwerin.

I think, Werner needed a working compass to find back to the airfield.
In the kit-box is a compass, the kit part No.13.
Well, the kit-compass actually looks pretty nice ....................................... but unfortunately it does not work.
Werner would never find it back home to the Airfield.

 

Ok - now we cut the kit-compass.

 

Everything is much sanded thinner.

In the compass fork, 3 holes with 0.3 mm diameter are drilled now.

Then these holes are drilled with 0.4 mm and with 0.5 mm lat ast.

0,5mm is the diameter of which we finally need .

 

 

 

For the presentation of the inner ring, I use a piece of scrap plastic from a WNW kit.

The plastic from WNW is very tough, you can work excellent with it.

 

 

We need 4 opposite 0.5mm holes in the ring.

 

 

The ring is very carefully worked out from the inside.

We need an inner diameter of 3.2 mm.
Then the edges are somewhat smoothed.

Now the ring is cut away from the scrap plastic.

 

 

If everything went well, then these parts are in front of us on our work bench 

 

 

........................................ tomorrow we will continue with the compass.................................

 

Servus

Bertl

[Jamme]

I'm crazy about this WIP, Bertl.

Fantastic.

Cheers,

Jamme

[Grant]

Speechless! Utterly speechless part from one word! Phenomenal !

[Umlaufmotor]

Thanks, I'm glad that you like this little compass-work.

It continues with the compass.
Small brass tubes are inserted in the two holes of the compass fork.
These brass tubes serve as bearings for the compass ring.
Outer diameter 0.5 mm, internal diameter 0.33 mm.

 

 

Four brass bearings are mounted at the compass ring.
Here's a size comparison with a match.

 

 

As bearing bolts I used brass tubes with 0.3 mm diameter.
Here in the picture as a test, a mixtture with 0,3 mm brass tube and a 0.3 mm steel wire.

 

 

 

[Ssasho0]

well now thats what I call a build to the "Bertl's" standard! I'm in awe...again

Good work mate, I'm waiting eagerly for the next update!

 

Best regards,

Sasho

[Umlaufmotor]

Now the compass housing.

The rim of the compass is made of a thin aluminum tube.

 

 

 

For the case I'm using again WNW scrap plastic.
Same procedure as before for the bearings.

 

 

 

Now the case is cut to the correct length.

 

[Jamme]

Wooooooooooooooooooowwwwwwwwww!!!!!

No comment.

F-A-N-T-A-S-T-I-C Job.

Love your attention to detail, Bertl.

Cheers,

Jamme