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Posted
7 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:

Love Hunters , thats turning out nicely Kevin 

Not sure about the color intermediate blue Guy saw another build in 1/72 it looked good.The actual callout was Dark Sea Grey and the blue had a grey tint before the gloss maybe the flat will tone it down?:hsmack:

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Posted
4 hours ago, KevinM said:

Not sure about the color intermediate blue Guy saw another build in 1/72 it looked good.The actual callout was Dark Sea Grey and the blue had a grey tint before the gloss maybe the flat will tone it down?:hsmack:

The colours look on point for post war RAF to me  , the DSG and EDSG are tricky as contemporary colour pics tend to show them more blue than they are, but thats more down to the film at the time .

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Posted

I finished decalling the rear wheel on the HP4. 22 decals in total. 

PXL_20260408_144010667_MP.thumb.jpg.030d0ad63dd6743b0ab153291a0d46fe.jpg

I also got one half of the frame decalled. 

PXL_20260408_143956496.thumb.jpg.2db22bcc2a0d64bb9265ebbce045f53a.jpg

There's a few wrinkles in spots but I'm happy with how it turned out. 

  • Like 7
Posted
29 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

I finished decalling the rear wheel on the HP4. 22 decals in total. 

PXL_20260408_144010667_MP.thumb.jpg.030d0ad63dd6743b0ab153291a0d46fe.jpg

I also got one half of the frame decalled. 

PXL_20260408_143956496.thumb.jpg.2db22bcc2a0d64bb9265ebbce045f53a.jpg

There's a few wrinkles in spots but I'm happy with how it turned out. 

Looking good. Have you tried hairdrier to smoother those wrinkles?

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Posted
48 minutes ago, FullArmor said:

Looking good. Have you tried hairdrier to smoother those wrinkles?

Thanks! I tried a hairdryer initially but that blew the decals off the wheel. The kit decals are fairly stiff and brittle. I ended up using a cloth that I would wet with hot tap water and then gently press on the decal. This got the decals to conform to shape as well as stay in place. But, it also made the decals take on that shape so it was hard to avoid wrinkles. 

  • Like 5
Posted
1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Thanks! I tried a hairdryer initially but that blew the decals off the wheel. The kit decals are fairly stiff and brittle. I ended up using a cloth that I would wet with hot tap water and then gently press on the decal. This got the decals to conform to shape as well as stay in place. But, it also made the decals take on that shape so it was hard to avoid wrinkles. 

Do these decals work with decal softener? I not familiar with the carbon fiber decals. Nice job BTW😀

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Posted
39 minutes ago, belugawhaleman said:

Do these decals work with decal softener? I not familiar with the carbon fiber decals. Nice job BTW😀

Thanks Paul!

I tried the Tamiya Extra Strong decal softener and it didn't do a thing. These are the kit decals so one consolation is they fit the parts. 

I've used carbon decals from Scale Motorsport before and they worked well with Microset and Sol. 

  • Like 3
Posted
39 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Thanks Paul!

I tried the Tamiya Extra Strong decal softener and it didn't do a thing. These are the kit decals so one consolation is they fit the parts. 

I've used carbon decals from Scale Motorsport before and they worked well with Microset and Sol. 

Try Walthers Solvaset very strong decal softener. Works well on Tamiya decals.

  • Like 2
Posted
38 minutes ago, belugawhaleman said:

Try Walthers Solvaset very strong decal softener. Works well on Tamiya decals.

You know Paul I think they changed the formula some while still strong not like the ole stuff.;)

 

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Posted
3 minutes ago, KevinM said:

You know Paul I think they changed the formula some while still strong not like the ole stuff.;)

 

I wasn't aware of that, thanks...... I bought a bunch of bottles about a year ago. I used some recently on my Tamiya  H39...worked well.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, I started my first Gundam kit, the perfect grade Unicorn (1/60 scale). I thought it would be tons of parts, but easy goin, but it is not that simple and you have to adopt from classical plastic modelling to assemble delicate intersecting parts in multiple layers without glue. It doesn´t help, that either the Unicorns manual or the one for the Kosmos LED kit isn´t in English. Sure a translator helps, but it´s a bit inconvenient. 
Anyhow, I managed to build up the torso, making and correcting a few errors. The torso includes the pilots cockpit and is build up until the LED unit comes into play. As you can see, there are some body panels movable, they are opened on the left side. I also used some panel liner.

P1022802.thumb.JPG.70a07062166339b0eda897142b6d4948.JPG 

P1022804.thumb.JPG.60e1e25e240eec3cc79be5ca7130f27d.JPG

...and it was light, at least for testing:

P1022808.thumb.JPG.df82447be7fbb22ec19e21fd211b9b33.JPG

P1022809.thumb.JPG.685ba8906ac7a45bc8b45c2f4ee32363.JPG

Cheers Rob

  • Like 5
Posted
5 hours ago, DocRob said:

Well, I started my first Gundam kit, the perfect grade Unicorn (1/60 scale). I thought it would be tons of parts, but easy goin, but it is not that simple and you have to adopt from classical plastic modelling to assemble delicate intersecting parts in multiple layers without glue. It doesn´t help, that either the Unicorns manual or the one for the Kosmos LED kit isn´t in English. Sure a translator helps, but it´s a bit inconvenient. 
Anyhow, I managed to build up the torso, making and correcting a few errors. The torso includes the pilots cockpit and is build up until the LED unit comes into play. As you can see, there are some body panels movable, they are opened on the left side. I also used some panel liner.

P1022802.thumb.JPG.70a07062166339b0eda897142b6d4948.JPG 

P1022804.thumb.JPG.60e1e25e240eec3cc79be5ca7130f27d.JPG

...and it was light, at least for testing:

P1022808.thumb.JPG.df82447be7fbb22ec19e21fd211b9b33.JPG

P1022809.thumb.JPG.685ba8906ac7a45bc8b45c2f4ee32363.JPG

Cheers Rob

Nice to see what I'll be in for once I start on mine. I've also got the Master Grade Unicorn in its full armour layout. Think of it as Beast Mode. 

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