Clunkmeister

Came yesterday.

No kidding. I did my flying surrounded by the limes of Beavers, Otters, Twin Otters, Caribou, and Buffalo, and I thought I knew STOL. Then I saw a PC-6 takeoff and it made the Twotter look like a slouch. It’s all about big power, high lift, and density altitude. Lightly loaded helps too. 😃

Either that or it’s just happy to see me. Too much glue sniffing, obviously.

OK, I’ve been picking away at this over the weekend, and my tiny little mind stopped dead while building the braking parachute container and cover. It looks vaguely pornographic.

They need to stay out of sight and get through the next bit. Nobody knows what power crazy idiot children will do, especially when they have the power of life and death over unarmed civilians. Help will come, I expect.

Welcome back, Maxim! Good to see you again my friend and we’re all glad you’re safe.

Clean and straight build. Amazing precise work as usual.

Amazing work!

Exactly. That’s something that’ll sneak up on a guy. I also used the plain inserts. Are the other ones for chaff dispensers?

Thanks for the tip. Well taken and Wilco. I really don’t like having stabilators in place now. They’re extremely fragile and seriously in the way. One thing I did notice is that according to pics, the spine strikes ahead of the fins are reversed in the instructions. I cross reference it with pics and three views and those two parts need to be reversed.

Just did. She looks hot, although she’s far away and on another continent.

And now the second set of snapshots that were posted to Martin’s thread

OK, I figured I’d put MY posts onto MY thread. Rule #1: don’t post anything while inebriated. Had a couple hours of non allocated time tonight where I got to actually build some. This kit is positively amazing. The level of detail is stunning, plus, it’s accurate as well. There are a few overly goofy parts breakdowns such as the K36 bang seat and the engine pods. Plus, and probably worst of all are the instruction book. It’s extremely vague regarding parts placement, etc. Think Fly Models Wessex and Dragon’s Bf-110. You’ll need to do your research and no enough about the actual aircraft to be sure of where some stuff goes.

Oh hell. Duhhhhh

Nice pics Martin. I’ll wire up the breaker box so it’s not just sitting there magically connected through the ether

Is moving right along. Lots of participation as far as LSM goes, but we could always use more. Pick a Ukrainian kit and build it anyway you wish, or any kit you wish and build it in Ukrainian markings. Either way, y’all have plenty of subjects out there to choose from. Can’t figure out something? Just gram your favorite ICM or Roden kit and start building. We’re a mixed armor and aircraft site, so maybe try an ICM Cobra AH-1? That’s the best of both worlds, and better yet, it’s close to a genuine Shake the Box kit, it’s that good.

Mike, that’s amazing work there. Your first planking is about flawless. I had several low spots as well that I had to attend to. Simple task with wood filler, but it’d be a real bear on a larger hull like Sphinx. So I’ve filed your use of filler blocks away for future reference. Even simple balsa blocks should benefit gettin a smooth flowing hull line with less filler on top.

Your first planking looks great, Rob. As James and Mike have told me, it’s the foundation for the second, so we’ll be doing ours together. 😃

Yep, Rob, I swallowed my pride and pulled it all off right up to two down from the main wale. I then started being more careful. It’s not that I hadn’t stopped working on her, I had gone and started on some deck guns and their carriages, getting some of that chore down a d out of the way. I more carefully sanded the first planking, and even filled a couple depressions I hadn't noticed before. I’ll replant with boxwood for uniformity until I get down to the area that’ll be laid over with copper plates. I’ll use pear wood under that area. It won’t be seen, so… I had really played with the idea of hand planking my deck, but the laser cut part is gorgeous, and I’ve figured out the deck hardware and figments should cover any burn marks. I’ll post an update on Speedy soon enough, but I’ve also got my hands full monitoring the Ukraine build. After Speedy, I see one of Chris’s coastal fishing boats as my next project.

Anything Mauser is a solid, dependable piece. I have a 7mm Spanish and a German 1898 (K98). Both are solid, accurate, and absolutely dependable. I have also a Type 99 Arisaka in 6.5, and it’s a nice rifle as well, although it has a really sort pull, which puts my head in an awkward spot. But nothing, and I mean NOTHING, beats the British Lee-Enfield SMLE for a smooth, non binding action. Those, in my humble opinion, are the sweetest shooting vintage bolt rifles there are, period. Just like the old Packard slogan: “Ask a man who owns one”. The Nambu is one ugly mutt, but yeah, it’s some seriously reliable

Yep, it’s a shooter. Not a safe queen. The issue is 38ACP rimless. It’s as rare as 44 rimfire. Nobody makes it anymore, so it’s just working some magic on some 38 Super, which is pretty tough to find in its own right. Then again, it’s not as bad as trying to feed a Nambu. Absolutely NADA out there. Although you’d need a bag over your head around my place if you showed up with a Nambu. Good grief those things are hideous looking.

Go for it, that’s fine

This is completely out of my comfort zone, but it’s a unique piece of old world craftsmanship. A factory scoped triple barrel Drilling combination 12 gauge shotgun and 9.3mm rifle. A version of these was the standard WW2 Luftwaffe survival gun, which in itself is amazing, because this is one serious top quality handmade Old World piece.

Interesting piece, Kevin. I’ve never really been a huge fan of the Mauser action, simply because I was spoiled in the SMLE. But Paul Mauser’s 1898 action sure set the standard for the next 120 years now, didn’t it? Me, I just found this, a 1903 Colt .38 auto loader. As you can see, it’s the daddy to the ubiquitous M1911 Colt, although it shares little in common. 38 ACP is a dead caliber, so I need to hand load each and every round using 38 Super as a starting point. I think it’s gonna be mostly a conversation piece, but we’ll see I suppose. The only drawback to me is that it’s been refinished, which to me is a HUGE negative, but it’s pretty and fills a big hole in my collection of useless pieces of antique junk.

Those hydraulic rams hanging down with the engines and intakes removed, are they the actuators for the intake ramps and FOD screens?