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Wumm

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Everything posted by Wumm

  1. Agree completely... If only for your own peace of mind. My Wife's Workplace is in the process of letting go their entire Casual workforce, almost 100 people in total. It's one of the few Heavy Industry Manufacturers in the Auto/Transport sphere left operating in this Country, and a sluggish Economy coupled with a lot of uncertainty around the recent Federal Election meant that sales aren't anywhere near the targets this year. Two of the Guys in her section were meant to go, but got a reprieve because Management didn't realise that the people they replaced are on Holiday. I really feel for you, that's sounds like such a raw deal you've been handed.
  2. Back to the specific question... The basic Sd.Kfz.251 was used throughout the War to tow all kinds of guns. If you remove the Pioneer bridges and equipment from the kit, you have a basic '251/1 (I believe there are parts to make a C or later D variant as well.) Occasional photos of the '251/7 can be found also towing field pieces. So while it wasn't the usual practice, it's also not out of the realms of possibility either. S
  3. Thank you for the suggestion... I am already on Terry's site quite a bit for this build. His assertion that there are alignment issues with the tracks and wheels on the Dragon Sonder 10 kit is the main reason I haven't attached the main suspension components yet, waiting until track assembly and a dry run for myself before committing to glue. The Flak 38 comparison still doesn't say which kit is the more accurate despite the measurement discrepancies. 3mm at 1/35th scale equates to four inches in reality. When Modellers are losing their Nut over a supposed 2mm discrepancy on for instance the Hasegawa 1/32 Bf109 fuselage (which is a complete fallacy BTW, but that's for another time), you would hope that a Reviewer would tell you which one is the more dimensionally accurate kit in a four product review. I've had the Tristar Gun kit for nearly a decade now, and was going to use it mainly because the details look crisper to my eyes, the styrene shields are noticeably thinner than the Dragon ones, and I hate bending photo-etch! I niavely expected to be able to finagle it onto the Dragon chassis, but the effort required doesn't justify the difference between the two. It can go onto a Ford Maultier or into a Dragon Sonder 251 body that I have instead, where a custom mount is required. We can build one together Ern!
  4. Maybe that's why I haven't finished one in a good while Mike... I've been keeping mine open! The frame has been attached to the gun deck, having tacked it on at four points initially and then using capillary action with Tamiya extra thin along the framework spars. Be sure to place the frame side down while it sets; this ensures the whole assembly stays flat, as you don't want any warpage to the deck itself. The optional p/e parts for the underside mentioned in post 10 above cannot be seen. The deck itself has two hinged panels to be added, these have plain and textured sides so be sure to glue them right side up. The triangular notch should be positioned so that they can be lifted to access the stowage area below, and not interfered with by the placement of the gun carriage. The hinged side panels of the deck are next up. I recommend leaving the internal sprue gates of these parts still attached while trimming the external areas first, as this adds structural integrity to these easily damaged areas... You will want nice straight edges here to frame the mesh screens that will fit within them. S
  5. Yes... And goes "KSSSHHHHHHH" when she opens the door.
  6. I found these Guys in San Antonio after a quick search Ern. Not an endorsement in any way, but just to give you an idea. My Wife keeps an 80 gallon tropical Reef, she want to upgrade to double that size and have it built in if possible... I say it's not happening. We do a 30 gallon water change every two weeks, I can't imagine how to accomplish that with the tank embedded in an internal wall.
  7. Yeah... But imagine how annoying the sound the door makes every time your Wife brings in a Coffee tho!
  8. Something like this? But in all seriousness... Look into custom acrylic Ernie. Such as Aquarium businesses local to you, that manufacture custom fish tanks and the like. Acrylic is much lighter than glass, and they can do much thinner sheeting than usual for a 300 - 500 gallon tank, as it doesn't need to hold any water.
  9. Thank you Phil... Still on preliminary cleanup and basic assemblies as time permits. The buzz is certainly alive with it though. It is as you say - with my normal staple of Bf-109 and Fw-190 kits, I know the airframes so well that they tend to go together in logical steps, and the assembly stages become almost second-nature. This kit is something completely different. There are no less than 11 parts to the Front suspension assembly (but strangely no steering rack!), And again there's a part not mentioned. The triangular suspension wishbone is meant to fit into a recess in part 72, which should attach to the bottom centre of the tub. It's shown in-situ on the instructions, but isn't highlighted on the sheet. The detail on this tiny part is even moulded on the reverse side to the sprue numbers - blink, and you'll miss it. I have decided to remove the Tristar kit from this build altogether. The gun assemblies are a little too disimilar to be able to swap like-for-like on the gun chassis'. I attempted to source some matching tread plate to fashion my own gun deck, but wasn't able to find anything suitable. Griffin do a p/e deck sized for this kit, but the holes are already cut out of the plate to fit the Dragon parts so it's not suitable for the Tristar gun. But as it turns out, the Dragon Sd.Kfz.251/17 kit in my stash includes a sprue (marked not for use) for the gun limber for the Flak 38, which is happily identical to that used by the Sd.Ah.51 trailer! So I'll make a trailer box from Evergreen sheet to fit it for this build, and use the Tristar gun and trailer some other time.
  10. It is the age-old dilemma... Taking what one sees in the Mind's eye, and re-creating in actual form. Practice makes perfect Gaz, that's the only advice I can offer. FWIW, I detest p/e too. S
  11. This made my day just now... Nose drooped when he stopped... A little torque when he launched. Not stiff at all, or dumped into the weeds like you see with most Car Guys lately. Looked really fun to drive. Lucky Bastard!
  12. This obviously a spurious claim... How would you get that gut behind a VW steering wheel?
  13. This looks to be a little stunner! I like the separate box to house the bodywork, and presumably the space allocated for it inside the larger box... This is a very nice touch to keep the fragile body pillars straight, as they are often found bent in 1/24th scale Auto kits. Some progressive thought and details put into this release.
  14. This is great progress Rob... It's these little details and techniques that give your built that something extra. I found this as well, and so chose black craft paper as my background as it helps make the subject stand out a little better. But I still struggle with Macro and focus issues as I'm only using a Cell Phone... Your exhaust is a little out of focus here, but still gives a good feel.
  15. Lovely work Rob, Great preparation is really paying dividends here.
  16. FWIW Mike, Brach Model also do a Sd.Kfz.135 (15cm on Lorraine chassis) http://www.brachmodel.it/cataloghi.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=227&category_id=1 Thank you Martin for the Wochenshau clip, it gives a good impression of uniforms and equipment from the time period.
  17. Looks stunning against the black backdrop... Very well done!
  18. Looks every bit the part Mike... Very sharp, the way the weathering blends into the Camo work.
  19. FWIW Gaz... You can add the missing details with Grandt Line resin bolts. They come in a variety of sizes. Look to Model Train sites locally if you need them urgently. Otherwise, you will find them at Vendors at the QMHE show in late August, if you can wait that long. S
  20. Harsh... But fair? Perhaps... But where's the fun in that? Especially when the RFM kit is over the $100 mark here.
  21. It's seems strange that they won't back the product, or that eBay won't step in given that it's a Business listing. The fuselage parts are clearly sub-standard both in casting fidelity and warpage, and are clearly not fit for purpose. Perhaps they are at the end of the Mould life? Jerry Rutman's master work is usually first rate, so if they still hold those, as Graham says above it should be no great shakes to re-pop some new fuselage halves for you. Warpage does and can happen. Just look to Harv's ZM Horton conversion build elsewhere on this site. I've had it happen with parts on an MDC all resin kit, so it's not just the smaller Garage producers but also the larger specialist makers where you find the isolated warpage or undershot parts. But they still should back up what they sell though...
  22. And then a Moderator posts straight afterwards without correction, making the behaviour acceptable. It's so hypocritical that it's laughable!
  23. Happy Birthday Ernie! FWIW, I think you've discovered the Fountain of Youth... Having asked for your Trojan review to be removed from TOS, apparently you've regressed somewhat are now Infantile! Eat your heart out, Benjamin Button!
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