BradG

Niiiiiiiiiice!

Cool, it looks pretty good mate.

They look really good mate.

From a swap and sell today.

It seems you had similar issues as I had with the wings. I found it usefull to put each wing half on seperately, although you are now beyond that point.

No it's not a flyer. The aircraft is being built to accompany the Deperdussin (this was also a replica built by a volunteer and donated) and the Boxkite which were the 3 aircraft that founded the RAAF. The Boxkite is an original aircraft owned by the RAAF and is airworthy, although I don't believe they will be flying that at all.

Mr Andrew Willox is Museum Volunteer of the Year 2013. Andrew is building a full size replica BE2 for the RAAF Museum here in Melbourne. He was nominated by my dad for all the hard work he has put into the aircraft. As you can see it's not quite completed yet, but it's close and will be finished for hand over at the 2014 Point Cook Air Pageant. It's the ultimate LSP as Andrew has built this from scratch and had no skills in woodworking when he started. He spent alot of his own money on the project and taught himself the required skills to build it, even basket weaving to make the seats. Well done Andrew, you truly deserved it.

Sweet. I'll be interested in seeing how you fix the problems with this kit.

Due to my 17 year old 19 inch CRT computer monitor exploding last night, I now have a 23 inch hi definition flat screen.....everything's so bright my EYES THEY'RE BURNING ARRRRGGHHHHH.......

I didn't get a good pic of what Robert did, but you can see how the sag on the track looks pretty good with the wire holding it. I think these were the Tamiya kits too.

Fruil tracks are almost as expensive as a whole damn Dragon model out here in Australia. Model Kasten are actually a cheaper option, or AFV Club. A friend of mine in my model club a week or so ago gave me a sensational tip for working with rubber track. He glues a piece of wire to the inside top ot the track, then bends the track over the wheels to get the proper sag. The wire keeps it in place.

No exceptions.

It's not a matter of need you say more, rather; can speak to say more yet? lol

I still stand by my simplistic solution of writing the paint number on the top of the cap.

Let me not complain about building a plastic kit again (I probably will though).

Looks good. I'd probably have just written the number on the top of the cap with a black texter, but I'm kinda lazy like that.

Looks great.

That picture is not of the Ukranian Su 27 airshow crash. Here is a nice pic.

Yes, this one;

Tremendous, I like it alot.

Wow, cool.

What does that mean mike lol?

I can't understand the hate for Tamiya decals, I've never had a problem with them and infact, I find them to be some of the best decals to use. I lay them over a good amount of Mr Mark on the surface (gloss coated surface), let them soak a little then press them down. It's the Hasegawa decals I dislike, mostly because they yellow very quickly.

Picked up the old Hasegawa Spitfire Mk Vb in 1/32 second hand so I can take the De Havilland prop and spinner out along with the internally armoured windscreen for the Hobby Boss kit. I picked the HB kit up for 30% off, so I kept to my own rule of never paying retail for Hobby Boss or Trumpeter models again.

Yeh I agree, it's a great book and the decal sheet would have been perfect to include since it prompted me to go out and buy a Spitfire kit.