1to1scale

Work started, the interior has “challenges”, so I am having to take up large gaps with styrene.

Bwaa Haaa Haaa! It was Tamiya Racing Blue for me. I learned the explosive power decanted lacquers!

Oh, if you are looking for my build thread....

I guess there are some constants in our universe....gravity....taxes....John building a Corsair....

I can speak to the B-24. On the J model, you can see a LOT through the cockpit canopy, it’s a lot of very clear windows, the HB clear is excellent, so throwing AM at the cockpit is a good idea. The bomb bay is another area sorely needing attention, if you plan on flipping it over to show it. The model should weigh about 6 pounds when done, so brass is a good idea, however, you will still need to glue the tar out of them where they join the wing. The big detriment to the kit are the turrets, sadly, you will have a seam, or you can go with crappy eBay turrets. As of right now, nobody has made any good replacement turrets. Right now my build is in a holding pattern, waiting for someone to release front and rear turrets. However, if you are building a D model, then at least you don’t have to worry about the front turrets, just the strange shape of the front glass.

Well, I had planned on starting my F-117, but I actually am building a pair of Blackhawks for some pilots, and since they are going on deployment in a couple months, I’m moving these in front of the Nighthawk. I'm doing a OOB build without any PE, although I need to figure something out with seatbelts. I started dry fitting one bird, to see what needs fixing, and the passenger cabin is a terrible fit so far, I have had to attack it in anger with a 150 grit sanding stick already.

The Fokker is a real Fokker to build, so many variables with the engine cradle, cowlings, panels, etc. I have been working on mine for over two years off and on, and I’m getting close, but every time I get traction, something makes me take a break from it. On the contrary, the snipe was easier to build. The rigging is not hard with ez-line, it’s just one at a time, I rigged mine in one night. The triplane can be a bit fiddly to align three wings. My vote is the Pup, it has the upper wing struts integrated into the cockpit side panes, so it’s really hard to screw up alignment on it. Another plus is the extremely low parts count, I think it the perfect starter Wingnut.

That is a great testimonial, it’s good to hear that some companies do care about their customers.

Here is my RFI for a commission build of the Revell Iron Maiden Spitfire with Eddie in the cockpit. The model was mostly stock other than G-factor Gear and antenna mast, and fabricated a rear metal wire holder and insulator. I added a PE harness the for the pilot and there is a tube under the aircraft for an acrylic rod. I used stock Tamiya RAF colors, just to make sure touch ups were easy if needed. And to keep with the Aces High theme, lots of chipping, soot, and grime, after all, the undead don’t have time to land and wash their planes. Total build time was exactly 4 weeks. Overall, I have to say this kit builds nicer that the new tool 109 and P-51, it’s definitely a simpler build, while still have it good cockpit detail and nice surface riveting and scribing. The fit of the bottom wing to the rear fuselage was poor, I had to use plastic shim to take up the gap and had to cut away the tabs that joined the two. Revell should have put the join at the rear of the wing, and not as far back as they did, it let to a lot of work. The decals were about as nice as any I have ever used, the kit landing gear are garbage, as are other Revell kits, an upgrade here is needed. Clear parts are probably the worst part of the kit, they sort of fit OK, but don’t line up with the fuselage very well, and they are not very clear, they seem to have a texture to the inside of them. I am pretty happy how this turned out, I ended up putting more work into it than anticipated, but it came out 98% the way I wanted it to. If I was building it for myself, and i have a kit that i will, I would have also upgraded the exhaust manifolds, and possibly gone with a new IP, Brassin landing gear and tires. I also would put the flaps up, as I grow tires of reattaching them with CA. I also would do mine in-flight, gear up, possibly mid retraction, and with a pilot. Pretty much a stress free build, just minor issues compared to some other kits.

I was playing with both kits last night, and I could see that there isn’t a lot of surface area on two helos, but that F-117 is huge, I’m guessing it’s about 3 square feet or more of surface area. I think I will need two bottles of black to be sure.

Looking great! I never stop to think, but back in WW2, Aussies were under real threat from Japanese. I imagine if some old timers might see your aircraft, they might go sound the air raid siren!

I had a near disaster at the end, and I have finally learned my lesson! Never use a water based wash if you used chipping fluid. Even under multiple coats of clear lacquer, the water can still activate the fluid. However, I was able to put an additional coat of lacquer (3 coats) and all is hidden. This happened to me 3 times now. You would think I would learn.... Testors spray can Dullcoat to the rescue. 40 years later and the stuff is still awesome, but, damn that stuff gives me a headache!

99% done!

What primer did you use on the Lanc? I have an option of either gray or black primer, and I was going to do highlights with MRP tire black.

I have a question for anyone that has used these paints to paint large scale, I am needing to order some paint and have questions as to how much coverage per bottle. I am getting ready to start two 1/35 Blackhawks and want to know if one bottle of helo drab will cover both kits? And also need a bottle of black for my F-117, wondering if one bottle will cover that also. My thought is that 30ml should be fine, but I have limited experience with MRP other than small parts.

I probably should have researched before i spoke. I meant destroyed by enemy tank or aircraft, all M1s lost in the Persian Gulf war were by friendly fire, four by Apache and the rest destroyed to keep from being salvaged later after breaking down. I do believe that two were destroyed by shoulder fired anti-tank missile in the latest war in Iraq. So I guess that two were lost in battle, but not by another tank.

My vote has to be the M1 Abrahams. It’s probably the deadliest tank, and it actually has a battle proven record. And I don’t believe it ever had a loss, am I correct?

Sounds like a good plan, if my memory serves me right, the Meteors were actually painted “speed silver”, and not NMF. Correct me if I’m wrong. I hear that the new Gunze Super Silver II (2) is the best looking approximation of it. If I also remember right, I think Tony (tjtx) painted his Snipe in that color.

This is my most anticipated model this year, it’s only second by my #1, the Aichi Val.

Airbrushes have come a long ways since I had a Testors siphon jar, Model Master Aztek, and my Pasche siphon feed cup. Even my cheap $25 Master is light years ahead of those old ones.

Funny this subject is up, I just sprayed paints and primers through my brush today, all varieties, lacquer, Tamiya, Vallejo, and used four different cleaners to clean at various times in the process. So I figured, since this was a topic, i would go ahead and do a super clean/tear-down and see what my brush looked like. I am happy to report that other than some internal buildup, the components were in amazing shape. I did not see any corrosion or damage at all. I just have to say...”I love my Iwata!”

Be careful rigging camels, they bite!

Wow, that’s pretty bad! I wonder if it was some kind of strange electrolysis that happened. A small electrical charge can do nasty things combined with liquids.

Same here, used windex. I am aware ammonia can erode chrome plating, not corrode it. And it will not harm brass. My airbrushes all have a semicircular area of missing chrome inside the cup, I suspect this is from the chroming process. I have never had any other issues, but I always flush my airbrushes with Madea airbrush cleaner, so the ammonia does not have a chance to affect much.