Landlubber Mike
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Posts posted by Landlubber Mike
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Oh I saw that one - looks like a sweet kit!
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1 hour ago, Clunkmeister said:
Some people are leaders
Some are followers
Some need pictures drawn with Crayola to
Can you tell my wife that? 🤔
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Thanks Ernie - as if there should be any debate!
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21 hours ago, npb748r said:
Hi Mike, I thought of doing similar but because of that window in the belly of the plane anything that goes into the fuselage will be seen. I'm still scratching my head how best to approach this minor problem, interweb searching is underway as others must have dealt with this, we can't be the first builders of this kit. I'm guessing that the cockpit floor in the real plane is the main wing spar, otherwise I have no idea how the wings stayed on the aircraft ! Regarding the underwing lights, my instructions show both remain in place, I'm also off to hunt down some photos of RAF buffalo's. I've just glued the fuselage together, starting at the front and worked backwards. Not the prettiest of joins and filler required but most of the bigger gap is now at the back and underneath of the plane. It's almost as if the fuselage halves are banana shaped but your trick of installing the sub-components on one side first worked a treat - thank you.
neil
Neil, just remembered that our resident experts @Clunkmeister and @Martinnfb are building our kits. Ernie and Martin, did you guys do anything special to attach the wings on your Buffalos? Neil and I are getting close to that stage on our builds and are a bit disappointed in the kits' lack of anchor points for the wings.
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On 3/11/2023 at 2:48 PM, CANicoll said:
And no more arguments about leaving the toilet seat up or down, or which side the TP unrolls from. Bonus!!
Chris
There is only one logical way to hang the TP roll!
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41 minutes ago, HubertB said:
FYI, the Vector R-1820 is one that threw me into fits: because they did not understand the shape of the oil sump between the two lower cylinders (which, to simplify, looks like a fat « T » with rounded corners when viewed from above, with the vertical bar of the « T » between the two said cylinders), and to make space for it, they decided to widen the space between these two cylinders. Thus the 9 cylinders are not evenly distributed, with a 40° angle between each
…
I found a FPW model 1/32 R-1820 recently :
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/285150116289
Mine is on its way home from Poland, but it really looks promising, and much better than the wobbly Vector offering …
Hubert
PS: whilst the uneven polar distribution of the cylinders may not be an issue in the Buffalo cowling - although for me « once seen, never unseen » - it is one when you try to fit it into a cowling of the Grumman Gulfhawk with its bossings above the cylinder heads …
Thanks Hubert, that's very helpful to know. Maybe I'll skip the Vector and look elsewhere then. When looking for alternative R-1820s, I found the one you ordered:
Also found this one from PrintScale which looks promising:
The PrintScale one looks closer to the R-1820-G5 that my B-239 had (round ignition ring versus the more horseshoe-shaped one), though it looks like they have the ignition wiring opposite - the wire on the left side of the cylinder is wired into the front of the cylinder according to the picture below (from Naval Fighters Number 104), while PrintScale has the wire coming from the right side.
Ugh, never easy is it? Maybe I'll take a look at the Vector one and see what is going on with it.
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After some noodling, I think I'm going to try to recreate this picture in a model diorama:
Sorry for using this log to record my thoughts, but I think I've worked through some of the trickier parts, which are:
1. Representing the BW-378 - fortunately, the kit includes decals for BW-378 (Camo C). The picture above suggests that the plane was re-painted/painted over in a winter camo scheme that looks very similar to the kit's scheme in Camo A, so I'll use A as the model with C's markings. Super lucky here, as not having the numbers would have probably made me scrap this whole crazy idea. The one thing I'm not sure about is whether in adding white for winter camo, the tail would have been repainted from white to blue - my guess is not since it seems like typical practice was to apply white paint over existing paint - here the olive and black areas of the plane - rather than repaint sections like the tail. Too bad though, as I think the blue tail looks pretty sharp.
2. Engine - with the panels open, I'll need to have a more detailed engine than the kit engine. The B-239 used a 950HP Wright R-1820-G5 Cyclone. Looking around, there are a few mid-late R-1820 aftermarket engines out there. Fortunately I already have a Vector engine (32-005) that looks like it might fit the bill. I had bought it for the Dauntless kit I won in the Christmas raffle here on LSM a few years ago, so I might try and use that one and see if it fits.
3. Cowl interior parts - on my 1/48 kit, I had opened similar panels using a CMK engine set which included the engine mounting pieces. For this 1/32 kit, it looks like things will be much simpler. I won't have to cut the access panels from the fuselage halves (as in step 1 on the 1/48 build) because the halves end in the right place since the 1/32 kit includes separate parts for the access panels. Plus, I believe that the 'curved-in' shape of the ends of the fuselage halves, together with the engine mounting pieces in the kit, get you PUR9 and PP1 and PP2 from the 1/48 kit (see instructions below). So, I think that all I will need to do is modify the kits access panels to show the one on the ground and the one held by the mechanic on top of the nose of the plane (which incudes the air vent, which should be fairly easy to replicate). Lucked out here (I hope) as replicating PUR9 wouldn't be easy.
4. Figures. Ultimately, these might be the trickiest parts of the diorama. I'll probably find figures that most closely match the poses of the three in the picture, and Frankenstein them with other parts like "winter heads with hats", gloves, and boots, and probably add or modify details using Milliput or similar materials.
5. Other diorama items. The ladder and wheel chocks should be fairly easy to replicate. The tarps will be tricky - I might use something like Modelspan, which I think I would be able to wet, fold and drape. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'd love to hear them. There are a few products to replicate snow, so hopefully that won't be an issue. I'd really like to replicate that birch tree in the background if I can - it adds a nice touch to the scene!
All in all, I think this might be a lot easier to accomplish than I first feared. Thanks for bearing with me on my little build treatise!
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Wow PW!! Beautiful work!
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2 hours ago, npb748r said:
I thought mine looked ok visually but just offered up the rear canopy and you are right, the right fuselage doesn't match the canopy . It's not out by much but it's really noticeable. I'm thinking I might try and reduce the canopy framework at the bottom to bring it down to the fuselage rather than build up the fuselage. Will be interesting to see if you have the same issue. I'm still working my way along the banana halves gluing the seam's where they popped undone as I remove the tap. Whilst extra work, it's not too hard to sort out and it's all part of the modelling experience. I will go for a shake and bake build after this one though (I need a simple 70's hasegawa kit but have none in my stash so will go searching for a cheap purchase !). Looking forward to your next steps !
neil
Well that sucks - was hoping that the rear canopy issue was only on the 1/48 kits. It wasn't quite as noticeable to me on the last kit until I started looking at fitting the canopy. Sorry also about the fuselage halves. The back half seems to fit fairly well, so what I might do is start by gluing the back half and maybe the bottom on the front halves, then work out what to do on the top of the front half. I'm worried that if I try to force the top half, I might have seams popping elsewhere as it looks like I could have a 2-3mm gap. Might be a better idea for me to close the gap with a piece of styrene.
I might put this one to the side for a bit, as I think I might attempt to do a diorama recreating one of the pictures I posted earlier (see my next post below), and I really need to get moving on my Walrus/Albatross group build project. So, you might end up passing me pretty quickly. I'm always happy to take a look at things if you have any questions and want to bounce things off someone.
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Thanks Rob - I think that will show a bit more interesting details if I go that way, rather than show it as fully buttoned up and ready to launch off the catapult (kinda boring).
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6 hours ago, npb748r said:
Hi Mike, I thought of doing similar but because of that window in the belly of the plane anything that goes into the fuselage will be seen. I'm still scratching my head how best to approach this minor problem, interweb searching is underway as others must have dealt with this, we can't be the first builders of this kit. I'm guessing that the cockpit floor in the real plane is the main wing spar, otherwise I have no idea how the wings stayed on the aircraft ! Regarding the underwing lights, my instructions show both remain in place, I'm also off to hunt down some photos of RAF buffalo's. I've just glued the fuselage together, starting at the front and worked backwards. Not the prettiest of joins and filler required but most of the bigger gap is now at the back and underneath of the plane. It's almost as if the fuselage halves are banana shaped but your trick of installing the sub-components on one side first worked a treat - thank you.
neil
I just looked at the wings and fuselage halves and you're totally right. Ugh. I didn't read anyone having a problem. Here are four logs I have bookmarked that I check along the way:
https://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/us/usn/reybuff.htm
https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235002982-special-hobby-132-buffalo-mk-1/
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=125858&hilit=Brewster+buffalo
The last one of the four took an approach that I probably will do - scuff up the mating surfaces, and insert a small rod or two, epoxy, and hope for the best. See page 2 of his log. Though, he might have broken the wings off which is why the mating surfaces look scuffed - a little hard to understand even with the translation.
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1 hour ago, npb748r said:
thanks for the interesting pictures Mike, I'm sure you'll avoid the need for a BW-372 diorama !
Just got all of my interior stuff fitted so ready to join the 2 halves - couple of test fits and it didn't look too bad so I'm ever hopeful. I am pondering the best way to fit the wings though given there is no tabs and slots - have you had any thoughts ?? I'm with you on SH kits, this is my 4th in 1/32 - they are fantastic subjects but need a different mindset and a touch of creativity/bodging to get a decent build. Value for money wise they are spot on, relatively cheap and complete with PE and resin so no aftermarket needed. So far I'd say the Buffalo has been the most enjoyable and so far easiest to build.
thanks
neil
Hey Neil, I hadn't looked at the wings until I saw your post. Arghhh!!! 🤬 Why would they do the wings that way?? In the minute I've had to think about it, I'll probably epoxy brass rod to help give a little more stability to the bond. I tend to be a lap modeler, and drop or bang into things all the time. I'd be really concerned with just gluing with cement or CA. Ugh, ruined my afternoon, thanks! 😆
Oh, one thing while I'm thinking about the wings. On the 1/48 kit, they had a divot on the underside of each wing for lights. In the 339-23 that I built in 1/48, only one wing should have had a light so I filled the other in. I believe that my current instructions say to fill one of them, but in case yours doesn't, you might want to look into it if you're into accuracy.
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Thanks Peter for sharing your techniques and consumables. I'll have to look into trying those. Really appreciate it!
And really sweet Ford!! Love it! As an FYI, I saw that some people go with MCW Finishes for paints - they have lots that match specific car colors. I think they may be lacquers and enamels.
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Since I'm on a roll, I wanted to share some B-239 pics I found online. I wasn't planning on putting this model in a diorama, but I think it would be pretty cool to diorama the first or third pictures below. Unfortunately I'm not having luck with finding appropriate figures and numbering could be tricky.
BW-378 (March 17, 1942) - looks to have more white in camo scheme, likely because of winter camo due to date, similar to Camo A in kit:
Another of the BW-378 (same plane as Camo C in kit which is dated late 1941):
BW-383 (March 17, 1942):
Interesting camo scheme:
The famous Lt. Hans Wind (302 combat sorties, 75 confirmed kills, ranked second on Finnish aces list):
Of course, if the model ends up looking like a piece of crap, I could go for BW-372 which was pulled from a Russian lake in 1998:
https://www.warbirdforum.com/bw372.htm
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Looks like a well made kit. Looking forward to this one!
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3 hours ago, Peterpools said:
Mike
Terrific progress and the interior is looking fantastic.
I keep tossing back and forth between MRP & Real Color lacquers and acrylics" Mig and Model Air. Eventually, I'll wind up most likely working in acrylics as there are lot of health issues with solvent based paints. Unfortunately, they are a dream to air brush as compared to acrylics. One thing I have been very careful with when shooting Model Ai, is to use only their thinner and air brush cleaner as lacquer based thinners and cleaners tends to turn the Model Air paint into a gooey mess. But no smell and water does work well.
Thanks Peter, appreciate the kind words!
I'm still fairly new to plastic modeling and am still feeling my way around. I did a couple of car models and used Tamiya rattle cans and Vallejo Model Air paints. Those were fine, but Tamiya's line of colors is a bit limiting so I decided to branch out. A lot of car guys swear by Zero Paints and their 2K gloss coats, but those you definitely want to be wearing a respirator for. I tried them out on my Morgan 3-wheeler (old kit from Entex). Really nice coverage, but the solvents you recommended to clean out the airbrush afterwards are pretty harsh. I left a small bristle brush sitting in the solvent trying to clean out my nozzle and the bristles actually started melting. 😳 Not sure if I posted this before, but the British green paint job came out pretty nice (for the chrome parts, I used Vallejo Metal Color):
On the plane side, I started with Tamiya and Vallejo. I quickly found Mr. Surfacer to be my absolute favorite primer though for everything - cars, planes, ships, etc. So, I tried using Mr. Color paints on my 1/48 Buffalo build and really liked them. I also have Alclad paints on the shelf that I tried once and liked. I need to figure out what to use for clears. I've liked Mr. Color (rattle can and airbrush) but I almost had a disaster with them on my Wildcat (likely sprayed too heavy).
So I don't know what I want to do. It's been really nice like using Vallejo so far on the Walrus and Buffalo. For interiors, I'll stick with Vallejo as there is little need to tape usually. For exteriors, I'll probably stick with Mr. Surfacer primer and generally use a mix of Mr. Color and Vallejo for colors. I am going to try using Vallejo for the exterior on my Walrus. Of course, just after the paints arrived, I o saw a build log online where someone similarly used Vallejo which came up in sheets off the model - had to strip it down and re-paint 😳 Hopefully I have a better experience! For this build, I think I'm going to use Tamiya or Mr. Color for the yellow wing tips and fuselage band - those will go on first, and then I can tape and not really worry about the tape lifting (and the opacity and coverage is better than what I can get from Vallejo I think). Rest of the colors will probably be a combination of Mr. Color and Vallejo.
For me, acrylics is mostly about the ease of use and cleanups. I am less concerned about the toxicity, but probably should be. I use a spray booth in my basement that vents to a half window - unfortunately I can't open the screen, so just have the vent pipe up against the screen and I leave the window open for an hour or more. Given the amount I spray, I think I should generally be ok with the filter, venting, etc., but probably should still try to switch over to acrylics as much as possible.
Sorry for the long treatise!
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2 hours ago, Bomber_County said:
The only SH kit I’ve done was their Tempest. It was a nightmare to fit the cockpit assembly in the fuselage and button up. In the end I didn’t fix the cage inside just ground it down to fit and let friction and the fuselage hold in place.
Very doubtful if I’ll build another SH……..I'm a little more used to those kind of fit issues after trying to shoehorn the Aires detail set into my Tamiya Wildcat build. That probably added 40 extra hours to the build (if not more), though probably would take a lot less time now that I've been through that exercise.
I know what you mean though. It is a bit frustrating when things just don't fit and it's not from user error. You have to wonder if kits are test built before release. Maybe it's just my personality, but I wouldn't release anything that seemed to have clear fit issues. It's too bad though, as Special Hobby kits some really cool subjects. After this one, I have their Siebel 204D and Lloyd C.V ser. 46 kits, so maybe I have some masochistic tendencies.
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On 3/15/2023 at 6:27 AM, npb748r said:
looking good and really good timing as I pulled my RAF version out at the weekend and started it. You are a tad ahead of me so it's nice to have yours as a reference - I'm finding it a really enjoyable build and not having a green or grey interior is a nice change. I'm also worried about the fuselage fit, I figured I would need to do it in stages and work my way along but I can see it will be a fight, especially with all of the interior sections. I'm adopting your approach so thanks for posting.
thanks
neil
Hey Neil, hope the little I've posted has been of some help. Let me know if you have any questions as you move along - feel free to post them here or via PM. I've actually enjoyed working on it as well, and really enjoyed working on the SH 1/48 kit. A bit more challenging than shake and bake kits, but not too bad if you take your time.
For fuselage fit, the back half seems to fit completely fine. Forward of the canopy, the bottom of the fuselage halves look to fit ok, but I think the top halves are a touch short. I ran into very similar issues with the 1/48 kit as you can see below. I forget how I ended up closing that gap, but I think the 1/32 kit will be proportionately bigger. I probably will need to run a strip of plastic between the halves to close it.
One other potential issue I should note. On my 1/48 build, looking at the right fuselage half, the area between the end of the cockpit and the tail fin had a flatter profile than the left half. I don't think it was that my kit part was warped, I think it's just how the mold was as I believe I found another 1/48 log that mentioned the same issue. I ended up building that area back up by using Tamiya 2-part epoxy putty which surprisingly worked really well given it was my first time using it. Unfortunately, I came across a 1/32 log that suggested the same issue. So, just wanted to pass that along as something to look out for.
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15 hours ago, Bomber_County said:
Great start Mike, following with interest……….
Thanks B-C! Glad to have you along!
7 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:Suomi forever !!!!!
Indeed!
4 hours ago, DocRob said:The interior looks fantastic Mike and hopefully the huge canopy will leave a lot of it visible. I hope there are no serious fit issues looming, but your approach should limit the risk a bit.
Cheers Rob
That's what I'm hoping Rob. There are a few little nubs here and there to help locate things like the bulkheads and firewalls, but nothing to really lock things in place. So, I would glue a sub-assembly and then add the other fuselage half to help the sub-assembly get into what I assumed to be the proper place as the glue dried. In all honesty, to this point it hasn't been that bad especially since I sorta knew what to plan for after the 1/48 SH Buffalo. For modellers that expect Tamiya-type fit though, Special Hobby is probably not for them.
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2 hours ago, CANicoll said:
Mike, Can't wait to see you start on this beauty, especially the figures and the cutaway. I'm thinking of doing something similar with the ZM P-51D so VERY interested to see how you set it up. Those Japanese crew figures look amazing. Chris
Thanks Chris! Haven't quite figured out how to set it all up, but I have a faint idea in my head.
For figures, Plasticsoldierreview.com is a pretty good resource. I ordered the three Red Box Japanese sets in 1/72, which get top marks from them (the Hasegawa set does as well).
http://plasticsoldierreview.com/review.aspx?id=2360
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Thanks John!
I think you're right that the -3 (and the 339-23 I did in 1/48 scale) had the longer nose. There might be some other changes you'd need to make as well, like the panel lines, exhaust location, etc. This SH kit included two sets of fuselage halves - obviously you only use one, so now I have a good sized paint mule. The one for the 239 had a different set of panel lines, and the exhausts come out of the bottom of the cowl, and not the side as with the other set that was included in the box. Certainly not insurmountable.
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I hesitated to post this since @KevinM was going to build this kit, but a few weeks ago I saw Sprue Brothers' big sale on Hasegawa items and saw this kit. I have been looking for a Special Hobby Sunderland Mk. III given the pretty amazing BigEd PE set that's available for it, but no luck (plus, sounds like there are fit and other issues with the kit). When I saw the Hasegawa Emily, I found out that it had a similar BigEd set, as well as some other goodies, and even better, it supposedly goes together very nicely. So, scratch the Sunderland and here comes the Emily. Managed to track down the available aftermarket so I'm a pretty happy camper.
Even at 1/72 this thing is a beast. I'm thinking of modeling it as a two-sided diorama - with the full exterior and crew running around loading and servicing the plane on one side, and the other side cutaway (with the wing removed) showing the crew in position at the various stations. I managed to find the Hasegawa Japanese Navy Airmen set, and also ordered some Red Box sets of Japanese air crew so I should be all set with the figures. This will help me to show both the interior and exterior of the plane and avoid problems with other plane kits where all the interior detail gets buttoned up never to be seen again. Even better, I'll be able to save space with one of the wings removed.
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Wow John, really nice! Well done, one of my favorites of your [many] builds.
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1 hour ago, KevinM said:
Looking Good Mike you should know the interior colors like the back of your hand
Thanks Kevin! This one is kinda easy with everything in aluminum. There's some black and other colors thrown in, but fairly easy scheme. That being said, the SH instructions suggested that some of the bulkheads and other parts be interior green. Seemed a bit odd to me, so I wasn't sure if it was a mistake. I checked other builds and they seem to generally paint everything aluminum, so I went with that approach which made assembly and painting much easier. It's not like anyone is going to be able to see much of the interior anyway.
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Brewster Buffalo 239 (Finnish) - Special Hobby 1/32 + some AM
in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
Posted
Thanks Martin! Good to know on the wings. For the undercarriage, I believe I used CA - glued the pieces in, let it set, then flooded the non-visible area with more CA for added strength. The attachment points are a bit weak, at least they were on the 1/48 kit. Come to think of it, I might have also used some epoxy for the LG, but can't recall.