Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

[DocRob]

Progress slowed a bit the last days, but today, I finalized gluing, pinning and clamping the bulwarks to the spars. I took my time to get the shape right as this defines the starting point for first planking. I added a second layer of PVA glue from under the deck, to ensure a good bond to the bulwark, as it's mostly self supporting, after removing the spar tabs and beams later. Now it's curing time again, yawn.

Cheers Rob

 

[Peterpools]

Rob

Nice progress - your attention to detail is amazing - insuring everything is as it should be.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

[GazzaS]

Coming into shape, Rob!

[DocRob]

Muchas gracias Amigos.

Meanwhile I prepare my bench for planking and layed out all necessary tools. The cutter is great for the lime planks with almost no denting near the cut. For longitudinal cutting, I will use a steel ruler.

Cheers Rob

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Looks great Rob!  Putting the gunport patterns on is one of the more stressful parts of the build - congrats on getting past it, it's all downhill from here

I have to say, this looks like a really good kit even for a complete beginner.  The instruction manual is an incredibly detailed practicum, and the design of the kit is such that it helps the builder avoid some of the trickier parts of building wooden ship models - no need for filler blocks or rabbets, framing of the hull is designed to eliminate any flex and keep everything perfectly square, positioning of the gunport patterns is simplified, etc.  My first model was the Caldercraft Brig Badger which was a well designed kit with a great instruction manual, but nothing quite like the DoK.  Even though the Badger is a simpler two-masted brig with no ornamentation, I still think the DoK would be an easier kit to build.  I also like how the stern ornamentation is in resin, as opposed to multiple layers of PE or worse yet, white metal - looks great!

I probably sound like a broken record, but the framing of the hull on this kit is really impressive.  If you are a stickler for symmetry, you need to make sure that the false keel and bulkheads are at perfect 90 degrees to each other, without any flex or warp.  Using MDF, particularly with the extra braces in this kit, is an easy way to make sure that everything will be rock solid.  Older kits tend to use other materials like plywood or basswood for the false keel and bulkheads, which are prone to warping and flexing.  Warped false keels are notorious in certain kits.  As an example, I'm building a Euromodel La Renommee kit at the moment, which is a really beautiful kit.  The first false keel had a significant warp to it, and Euromodel kindly sent me a replacement.  The replacement had a very slight wave in it around the back 2/3 of the false keel, and it took me the better part of 6-8 hours to adjust all the bulkheads, etc. to make sure that everything was symmetrical.  Learned a lot doing that, but man, I'd rather be spending those hours building rather than fixing a defect.

[Landlubber Mike]

52 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Muchas gracias Amigos.

Meanwhile I prepare my bench for planking and layed out all necessary tools. The cutter is great for the lime planks with almost no denting near the cut. For longitudinal cutting, I will use a steel ruler.

Cheers Rob

 

 

I have that same cutter from RP Tools - it looks like AK rebranded it.  I've tried some of the other cutters out there, and this one by far is the best.  Good choice!

For longitudinal cutting, make sure your blade is super sharp if using a steel ruler.  I learned the hard way that if dull, the blade could jump the plank if using a thin ruler and find your fingers.  Not fun!  I found this item from Micromark makes cutting a lot safer, though haven't used it recently as I bought a thicker steel rule and keep sandpaper nearby to hone the blade after a few cuts.

https://www.micromark.com/Straight-Edge-6-Inches-Long

[Peterpools]

Rob

Awesome progress .. looking so good. Just love your tools ... from one tool junkie to another.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

 

[DocRob]

17 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks great Rob!  Putting the gunport patterns on is one of the more stressful parts of the build - congrats on getting past it, it's all downhill from here

I have to say, this looks like a really good kit even for a complete beginner.  The instruction manual is an incredibly detailed practicum, and the design of the kit is such that it helps the builder avoid some of the trickier parts of building wooden ship models - no need for filler blocks or rabbets, framing of the hull is designed to eliminate any flex and keep everything perfectly square, positioning of the gunport patterns is simplified, etc.  My first model was the Caldercraft Brig Badger which was a well designed kit with a great instruction manual, but nothing quite like the DoK.  Even though the Badger is a simpler two-masted brig with no ornamentation, I still think the DoK would be an easier kit to build.  I also like how the stern ornamentation is in resin, as opposed to multiple layers of PE or worse yet, white metal - looks great!

I probably sound like a broken record, but the framing of the hull on this kit is really impressive.  If you are a stickler for symmetry, you need to make sure that the false keel and bulkheads are at perfect 90 degrees to each other, without any flex or warp.  Using MDF, particularly with the extra braces in this kit, is an easy way to make sure that everything will be rock solid.  Older kits tend to use other materials like plywood or basswood for the false keel and bulkheads, which are prone to warping and flexing.  Warped false keels are notorious in certain kits.  As an example, I'm building a Euromodel La Renommee kit at the moment, which is a really beautiful kit.  The first false keel had a significant warp to it, and Euromodel kindly sent me a replacement.  The replacement had a very slight wave in it around the back 2/3 of the false keel, and it took me the better part of 6-8 hours to adjust all the bulkheads, etc. to make sure that everything was symmetrical.  Learned a lot doing that, but man, I'd rather be spending those hours building rather than fixing a defect.

Thank you Mike. Chris went a bit further with the gunports with the Dok. The bulwarks will be planked, firs from the outside and later from the inside, followed by decorative parts. To align these layers correctly, Chris supplied wooden plugs to insert into the gunports. What a relief, after having to drill, cut and sand the gunports on my kutter build.

Building the DoK as my first (hopefully completed) wooden ship since a long time, followed exactly this thought. First I questioned myself, if it is advisable to work on such an expensive kit as a beginner, but then, browsing through the manual, I came to the believe, that it's the best way to do it, because the perfect step by step manual along the extremely well designed kit helps to ship around the obstacles and installing a learning by doing process.

I only visually cared for symmetry, as the framework is very rigid with no movement at all, even when applying force while sanding. The geometry is perfect and the only task is, to insert all the spars and supporting beams as deep as possible, to achieve an even deck line. Sometimes some force was needed to do that, but better this way than loose fitting.

I remember building a Billing Boats trawler in my twens, which had a plywood set of spars on the keel. It was so difficult to maintain a reliable geometry of the hull, that I was forced to build a wooden slipway as a support.

Like you, I'm amazed about the all out quality of the Dok and if I succeed finishing her, Sphinx (a dream) from Vanguard might be my next project

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

18 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I have that same cutter from RP Tools - it looks like AK rebranded it.  I've tried some of the other cutters out there, and this one by far is the best.  Good choice!

For longitudinal cutting, make sure your blade is super sharp if using a steel ruler.  I learned the hard way that if dull, the blade could jump the plank if using a thin ruler and find your fingers.  Not fun!  I found this item from Micromark makes cutting a lot safer, though haven't used it recently as I bought a thicker steel rule and keep sandpaper nearby to hone the blade after a few cuts.

https://www.micromark.com/Straight-Edge-6-Inches-Long

The cutter is definitely a rebrand from RP-Toolz and is fully able to do the plank cutting for the DoK. I have different metal rulers, the thin, flexible one made by steel and another more rigid, made from aluminum for the longitudinal cuts. I supplied myself with fresh blades for my hobby knife and have a Japanese grinding stone to re sharpen the blades on the go. This method works great for me, as I think, the blades are made from hardened steel and sandpaper doesn't really work on these, except maybe to erase some burr.
I will look out for my fingers, as I already have two bad cuts from other occasions, which hinder my progress in the moment. Normally I'm not clumsy, it was bad luck, combined with my engineers approach, to use only very sharp tools, be it in the kitchen or at the workbench.

Cheers Rob

 

[DocRob]

16 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Awesome progress .. looking so good. Just love your tools ... from one tool junkie to another.

I love good tools Peter and by good, I mean practical. If a tool has to be prepared for half an hour to do a one minute task, I'm out and look for workarounds. But being an ex engineer with a deep addiction for metals and precise work, it's pure fun to work with good tools.

Cheers Rob

[Peterpools]

Rob

I should have known by how you attack a project with a detailed and practical plan. I also enjoy using well made tools and if they are too specific in use (capable of doing just one job) I will normally pass them up. Over the past few years I have found myself slowly but continuously buying more and more Tamiya tools as I find their quality, ease of use, far better then most. Unfortunately, a number of the Tamiya tools I want, I have to buy overseas as they are not sold in the USA. One example that quickly comes to mind is the Tamiya/Ofla blades - the knives are now sold here with the correct blade but it's impossible to buy replacement blades in the states. 

Keep 'e, com

Peter

[Bomber_County]

Looking amazing Rob, also being an engineer. I’ll actually stop during a modelling session and tidy and clean my tools before carrying on. Also hate an untidy workbench………

[DocRob]

On 3/12/2022 at 3:51 PM, Peterpools said:

I should have known by how you attack a project with a detailed and practical plan. I also enjoy using well made tools and if they are too specific in use (capable of doing just one job) I will normally pass them up. Over the past few years I have found myself slowly but continuously buying more and more Tamiya tools as I find their quality, ease of use, far better then most. Unfortunately, a number of the Tamiya tools I want, I have to buy overseas as they are not sold in the USA. One example that quickly comes to mind is the Tamiya/Ofla blades - the knives are now sold here with the correct blade but it's impossible to buy replacement blades in the states.

The more new challenges there are in a project, the more my approach changes from lazy to planned. I like both types, a fast fun build or a challenging build involving new techniques and different materials to master. I f I would only build LS planes, I would have been long gone out of the hobby.

As a tool nerd, I try to justify many of my purchases with the ease of use. A good tool allows you to concentrate on your subject, once you mastered it. A bad tool will need your attention all the time and will be a distraction.

Peter, I like many of the Tamiya tools as well, the tweezers are very good and yes, my goto blade sits in a Modeler's Knive Pro. I have a lot of spare blades, as sometimes they are sold out here and delivery to my island can take long. I re sharpen the tools with a fine Japanese grinding stone, if the tip is still intact. 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

On 3/13/2022 at 5:17 PM, Bomber_County said:

Looking amazing Rob, also being an engineer. I’ll actually stop during a modelling session and tidy and clean my tools before carrying on. Also hate an untidy workbench………

I mainly use an engineers approach, while planning and trying to find the best method to solve modelling problems. Practical, I'm more chaotic and to the end of a project, my  bench is a mess. I clean it up between builds but rarely within.
After I worked as an engineer, I had a few stints in big data analysis, including fuzzy logic. Some fuzziness must have been left over into me .

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

I hesitated some time, but there is no way around, I have to plank the DoK. I started with the first plank down from the bulwark and tapered it on the bow side with a steel ruler and a sharp blade to half it's width. I used white glue to fix the plank to the spars and secured it with the supplied tiny brass nails. My self constructed pin pusher is of great help here. The lime wood is very flexible and relatively soft and good to work with. It doesn't splinter pushing the nails through, so no need for pre drilling.

 

Tapering started neat the third spar.

I added the next to planks and found it necessary to bevel the edges of the planks near the stern area, to get a good fit around the curved stern. After applying the third plank, I compare my results with the pictures in the manual and found, that these planks should have been tapered in the stern area as well. Unfortunately this is not mentioned in the text of the manual. The next planks will be tapered on both ends and I hope, I can get away with it. Mind, it's only a base layer, which will be filled and sanded to accept the second planking later.

Today I will check the bond of the planks. I have chosen PVA glue over slow curing CA (which some builders recommend), because, it allows me to work on a slower pace and I don't like the general idea of using CA for wood very much.

 

Cheers Rob

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Nice work!  I agree on not using CA on wood - sets way too quick for my liking, and can be messy.  

[DocRob]

2 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Nice work!  I agree on not using CA on wood - sets way too quick for my liking, and can be messy.  

Thank you Mike and in addition, if it gets messy with CA, it's much harder than the limewood and therefore difficult to sand.

...meanwhile, I planked down seven planks and thought this might be a good time to start the other side next. Each plank takes up to half an hour, with marking, tapering the bow, holding on for marking taper sections on the stern, tapering, beveling in case of tight radii and finally cut to length, but not before using my bending pliers to give some flex to the stern end of the plank, to bend it according to the desired shape. Than, gluing and pinning with the nails, followed by some glue brushed on from the inside as reinforcement.

I try to practice the smooth laying down of the planks, which will help me with the second planking, which will be visible, at least above the waterline. For the second planking there are no nails or other helpers, so it better be good.

Cheers Rob

 

[GazzaS]

I like to see your fleet in construction, Rob.

[DocRob]

3 hours ago, GazzaS said:

I like to see your fleet in construction, Rob.

Until there is a fleet, I will rest in peace, I guess .

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

I seem only to be able to add three planks per session. I made the first three on the other side and will continue in the afternoon. It's a time consuming affair and test of patience.

On the pic, I loosely attached some plank remains on the fattest part of the hull, only to check, where I land with a full plank in this area (of course, bended to shape).
Seeing the result, I will continue full planking down to the keel, with tapering and beveling the planks near the bow and stern area.
Some builders do it this way, others applied a neutral plank somewhere in the middle and fitted in the rest of the planks. Previewing the layout, I chose not to go this route.
I will try to achieve a relatively homogenous planking with filler planks only if absolutely needed, because i think the planking layout looks more even and nicer than.
This is especially important for the second planking and is done on the first for training.

Cheers Rob

[Landlubber Mike]

Looking good!  I had the same experience planking my hulls as well - can usually at most get three strakes on.  Better to take your time now, which will just save time later when you have to sand and fill, etc.  

On the four hulls I planked, I think I started from the bulwarks down, got to around the middle of the hull, then started planking from the keel up.  I'd at least consider thinking about putting the garboard strake down (the bottom-most plank along the keel).  Depending on the hull, it can have a bit of a funky shape since it goes from practically vertical at the stern end to close to horizontal at the belly and then back to vertical near the bow.  You definitely want a clean line of that plank against the keel and stem, and I think it's easier to fit a custom plank in the middle than fit a garboard at the very end - at least that's what I was thinking.

Of course this is all less of an issue for the first planking.  Also, if you are going to paint the lower hull white for 'white stuff' then it matters less too.

[DocRob]

2 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looking good!  I had the same experience planking my hulls as well - can usually at most get three strakes on.  Better to take your time now, which will just save time later when you have to sand and fill, etc.  

On the four hulls I planked, I think I started from the bulwarks down, got to around the middle of the hull, then started planking from the keel up.  I'd at least consider thinking about putting the garboard strake down (the bottom-most plank along the keel).  Depending on the hull, it can have a bit of a funky shape since it goes from practically vertical at the stern end to close to horizontal at the belly and then back to vertical near the bow.  You definitely want a clean line of that plank against the keel and stem, and I think it's easier to fit a custom plank in the middle than fit a garboard at the very end - at least that's what I was thinking.

Of course this is all less of an issue for the first planking.  Also, if you are going to paint the lower hull white for 'white stuff' then it matters less too.

Thanks Mike, I will plank from the bulwark down, but the last plank on the keel will be installed before, I finish planking down. You are absolutely right, the keel plank should be as easy to apply as possible, given all the geometrical issues in this area.
I have to admit, that I fear second planking a bit, as I find it not easy, to get the planks aligned well. Most build logs of DoK mention problems in the stern area, but my problem zone is between the second and fourth spar on the bow side. I can't bend the planks enough, to get them glued perfectly to the spars. There's some torsion there and I have to address this for the second planking.

The bow side has a perfect klinker planking, like a Viking boat should have, not good. The planking on the lright side was done today and was worse than the left side, although I tried to improve different things. I can definitely see, why filler blocks are not the worst to have, as it is very difficult to pin the planks to align onto the narrow spars. I may use the dampen - preform - dry - method you mentioned for second planking.

The seven planks on the left side took less space on the bow, than their right counterparts. No problem while first planking, but I have to measure more exact for second planking.

The often dreaded stern area was easier with a bit of beveling and will be smooth after sanding.

Cheers Rob

[Landlubber Mike]

I'm really impressed with people who can single plank a hull that is plank on bulkhead.  The good news is that you can plank a second layer, so not as many worries how the first planking is turning out.  As long as you take your time filling and sanding to ensure a very smooth hull, the second planking is easier in that you don't have to worry about whether the bulkheads were framed enough or too little.  It also gives you a practice run in determining where the potential lines of planking runs go, where you might need to thin planks, where you might need to use stealers, etc.

Your stern area is coming out well.  In your last picture, there is a sharp bend in the fifth plank which probably means that last bulkhead could have been faired a bit more.  Shouldn't be too much trouble as you can just sand it out.  

Planking at the bow is really tricky - not only is there an upward sweep to the planking runs, but often times you have too many planks crowding into a smaller space, which means you have to narrow them.  When you narrow them, you get all kinds of potential for problems.  Really the most critical thing is to not bend a plank laterally against its width.  When you do, you end up with the clinking effect.  Really try to resist the urge to set the plank against the plank above/below it - just let it lay naturally against the bulkheads, and then using stealers, etc.

You also have what appears to be a couple of low spots between the first and second bulkheads, and possibly between the second and third bulkheads.  But, a little filler and you should be fine.  This is where I'm a big convert to the approach of using filler blocks in this area of the hull, as you can help ensure a smooth curve to the bow and not have the tendency of a straight plank/low section between bulkheads.

What has worked for me is dividing the hull into three planking bands, with the middle of the hull equal to X number of full width planks.  Doing that leaves a much easier space to work within.  Then you take tick strips to measure the planking distance at each bulkhead.  That gives a good idea of where planks may need to start narrowing, and where you might need a stealer plank or two if the planking distance is greater than the area at the belly -- that's usually at the stern, but interestingly from your pictures, it looks like this might not be the case for the DoK.

Every hull is different, but I think measuring the planking distance along bulkheads really helps avoid the natural tendency to want to press the plank against the one you just did, and letting the plank lie naturally is the best.  This is a picture from my Euromodel La Renommee build - this hull is really curvy, but you can see how at the bow, in some cases I had to narrow planks, and some places I had to use stealers - even within a few rows of each other.  It's been a while, but I think I started planking from the top down, then when I had to start modifying planks, I switched to planking from the keel up.  I also used filler blocks which really helped things immensely (second picture below).  I probably won't need much, if any, filler on this hull.  Much different story from my first three hulls!

 

You're doing a really great job so hang in there.   

[Landlubber Mike]

I should have mentioned that some people edge bend wet planks that they dry to shape with a hair dryer.  Not sure exactly how all that works, but it might be worth looking into for the second planking.  You can also look for planks in your kit that have a slight curve to them laterally, and use that to your advantage when planking.

If you really want to torture yourself, you can always try spiling your planks.  It works really well to avoid gaps, clinks, etc., but is (1) incredibly time consuming, and (2) you need to use wider planking materials to be able to cut the planks to start with.  I was just looking through my Pegasus log and found these extreme examples of what spiling can entail - worth it in the end as you end up with nicer looking plank runs.  Most of the planks weren't this bad though.

Here is one at the bow (in third picture, I believe it's the foremost plank under the wale):

 

Here was one crazy one at the stern that had to not only go around the drop plank above it, but carry upwards to the stern counter:

 

 

 

 

[Peterpools]

Rob

Awesome work and I'm blown away. You and Mike make quite a Team and following both the build and discussion it's an education for sure.

Much appreciated

Keep 'em comin

Peter