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1:35 Trumpeter Mörser Karl-Gerät 040/041 with transport.


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I built the dragon T-28 last year, that has rubber tyres, yes I painted every one of em....

 

Wheelsfitted_zps998aa46c.jpg

 

Painted3_zps8d44881a.jpg

 

It really is a beautiful kit... I'm really enjoying this build, the Karl I mean, and am thinking, maybe I should convert to military stuff??

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Amazing work all round Nige .. going back to the wheel rims, that Alclad chrome looks absolutely sensational and just like what I remember the "polished" steel of a railway rim should look like.

 

(Oh! and Jess, she's gorgeous!  Only my wife could tell you how much I want a dog at the moment, certainly a wire-haired Fox Terrier or even a Jack Russell ..  Nice name too, Jess!)

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Thanks for the compliment Paul, I will start a fresh build thread if you like, I have loads of pics.

 

Grant, thanks for the compliment on the wheels, I thought it looked pretty realistic myself. When I added the X-20 thinned with cellulose thinner, it darkened up the paint and made it more "Steel" like.

 

If you're a member of Facebook, look up "Delwires Fox Terriers". They are a very friendly community indeed. You'll see loads of pics of Fox terriers of all ages, and also Jess' six brothers and sisters.

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Hi all, I'm back!!

 

trundling along slowly with this one I'm afraid. I seem to spend more time cleaning up parts than assembling. Anyway, as we all know, I'm still working on the Transport rail system for the giant Mortar Gun, and have now started looking at the actual swivel and lift system that the Karl hangs on.

 

Here are the parts which make up just one of the bases. once this little lot is assembled, along with a couple more parts not here, we will be on a total parts count of 590, not even close to half way there!!

 

Hangarmounts.jpg

 

Please note, I am not currently adding any small spindly parts or PE as these will only get knocked off during the build. I shall add them at the end just before final painting.

 

Gripe time!!!

 

Just look at where trumpeter have put some stonking great ejector pins in their tool!! Right on the only visible part of the roller!!! Arrgghh!!

 

rollersforhangers.jpg

 

Gripe over.. that's better!!

 

Upon assembling the mounting "boxes" I notice a large gap at each corner, which is supposed to be a bolted together flange joint.

 

Boxgap.jpg

 

So, I added a small piece of plastic card to the gap and glued it only to the outer part, when cleaned up, it will look like the outer piece is one flange and the inner is another, with a small line in between to represent the join.

 

Boxgapfilled.jpg

 

Thanks for stopping by, more to come later on tonight...

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Sorry Guys, I promised more pics on the 7th, and here we are at the 10th and you still haven't had an update.

 

Well, I have been working on this kit a lot and can say that there has been a lot going on... a lot of cleaning up that is.... I now have pretty much all the sub assemblies built up and painted in Nato Black, and will start on the main lifting frames tonight.

 

I know I said I would build this OOB, but I have given in to temptation and bought the Eduard etch set and the lovely Friul tracks. I just need to find some turnbuckles now.

 

Now, I promise to put some more pics up later whan I'm at home!!

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As promised, here's a little update of where we are with this great model.

 

As you can see here, there are a lot of sub assemblies built and painted... All in Nato Black XF-69 as a pre shade...

 

paintedparts1.jpg

 

Here's the lifting mechanism close up.. sorry about the dust...

 

hangermaounts.jpg

 

I thought I'd get the main lifting frames built tonight, but, oh no... there are just a couple of my favourites, the good old ejector pin mark, to deal with..

 

Hangers.jpg

 

The squares of white plastic card are filling in massive indentations left by, yes you guessed it, ejector pins!!

 

Here's a close up of what I've done. These angled structures are very visible on the finished model, so I thought I'd take the time to sort them out.

 

hangersdetail.jpg

 

Thanks for stopping by, I'll get some more info up tomorrow, hopefully with a parts count?

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Thanks James. This kit is lovely, but I really do wish I didn't keep getting stalled by the bloomin ejector pin marks.

 

"That little chap" is actually a young lady! She's only three weeks old today, so won't be coming home for at least another 5 weeks. Then she will probably raise havoc! Has anyone ever seen a 1/35 Leopold complete with teeth marks?

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Hiya Nige!

 

Nice progress...  I can tell you from babysitting at least one dog (a chocolate labrador retriever) that they do a few annoying things those first few months and those are:  eat, poop/pee wherever (until you get them housebroke) and chew, chew, chew....  My wife's hope chest (LOL, she sure got no hope with me :o)  is full of gnaw marks from the little rascal we took care of for a few days awhile back.  LOL, I'm sure you're well aware of the shenanagins that the little darlin will be putting you through.

 

This Karl thing-a-ma-jig, is shaping up nicely.  Another heavily involved kit you've gotten yourself into.  I just picked myself up the new 1/35 Dragon Jagdpanther G2.  Should be here in a few days.  As if I don't have enough models to build already (including two other Dragon Jagdpanthers, one early and one G1)  I've still gotta finish the N1K2-J though. 

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Hi Tim, I'm all too aware of the shortcomings of having a puppy. You may remember I lost my dear Lola in October, well, when she was a puppy she destroyed a three seater Sofa, but never attacked anything else. I am loaded with chewy toys for teething puppies and also a play pen and crate.

 

I'll let you know how I get on :blink:  :blink:

 

I'm gonna go take a look at the N1K2 now... Did you see my reviews on the B-17 resin?

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Moving slowly on with this one.. I thought I should post a little update and a small piece of advice for anyone building this kit..

 

So, here we have the chassis frames pretty much done.

 

chassisbuilt1.jpg

 

I spent about 4 hours earlier today rubbing down the Mr Surfacer in all the ejector pin holes in the main frame but have finally got round to sticking the assemblies together.

 

framesbuilt.jpg

 

The tops aren't glued on yet as I need to get inside the central box section with some paint before I box it in.

 

Now, here's a tip for anyone contemplating this kit... regarding these brackets that go on the foremost upper surface of each frame.

 

framegadgetinstructions.jpg

 

Basically, the small legs that are supposed to be stuck up against the back wall need packing out to allow the gussets on the side panels sit correctly between the bolts, like this..

 

Framegadgets.jpg

 

I have added some stock to the legs to guide the back wall into the correct position. You can see it in both the parts and in the assembly here. On the left part the strip is 0.25mm and the right is 1mm.

 

Framegadgetmods.jpg

 

Thanks for stopping by, more to come tomorrow when hopefully these rail cars will be all but finished?

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I'm gonna go take a look at the N1K2 now... Did you see my reviews on the B-17 resin?

 

Yes, I had a look at the B-17 stuff you reviewed and it looks very nice.  I commented in the guns thread that they do look very good and will undoubtedly improve the kit.  I also said that I've lost all interest in the B-17G kit and unless they make some drastic changes with the F, my position will remain unchanged.

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The hanger frames are both together now, after the hours and hours of getting rid of all the pin marks.

 

Hangers1.jpg

 

I have painted Mr Surfacer into the joins, as these should be strips of angle iron, without a big gap along their length!!

 

Hangers2.jpg

 

Once dry, I'll give the seams a rub with an alcohol soaked Q-tip to remove the excess and wash the remainder into the join.

 

Thanks for looking in..

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Good luck with that Pardelhas, if it's the HB kit.. That thing is literally covered in pin marks!!lol

 

I have been painting and filling all week so here is the result...

 

Paintedchassis.jpg

 

Paintedchassis1.jpg

 

Now that all the rail car parts are painted, I thought I'd get stuck into the gun itself.. here's some parts, basically stage one of the instructions..

 

Gunparts.jpg

 

This is step one of the instructions..

 

Instructions1.jpg

 

I just thought I'd post a picture of the main sprocket detail. Trumpeter have really gone to town with this one, just look at the planetary gear detail and even inner cover detail, brilliant for an in repair diorama.

 

Sprocketdetail.jpg

 

If you're wondering how big this thing is... here's a Tamiya Tiger 1 hull next to the Karl hull.

 

Sizecomparison.jpg

 

Something I almost forgot to tell you all about was my AM for the Gun, I know I said I'd go OOB on this one, but I just can't stop myself!!

 

AMpartsGun.jpg

 

Plus there's no way one could accurately replicate the track droop between each idler with the rubber band tracks.

 

I'll go back to the bench and get building now then...

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Moving on..

 

The massive clean up has started on the 44 wheels for the main rollers, most have no less than 4 sprue connection points, still I'm glad it's done..

 

Here are the parts for the Karl suspension and rollers.

 

Suspensionparts.jpg

 

Unlike the Dragon kit, Trumpeter give the builder the option of having the suspension in the lowered, rolling position or the raised, firing and transport position. Notice the slots that a peg engages in, moulded onto the arm.

 

Adjustablesuspension.jpg

 

As usual, here's the instruction sheet for you..

 

Instructions2.jpg

 

Oh, part count..150 so far, on the gun.

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Looks like they got the firing and transport modes confused.   Either that or that thing doesn't have any suspension when it's moving.

 

I might be wrong, but I believe I read somewhere that in transport, or travelling, mode, the tracks are slackened and then raised off the ground by using turnbuckles attached to the hull.I would assume that's after it's been attached to it's rail bogies to keep the track from dragging.  

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From what I gather, the suspension is raised when in transport mode to stop the tracks dragging on the rails. I also think the suspension was raised in firing mode to give the best reaction possible to the firing. Remember the theory of relativity.......

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Raising the gun off the ground naturally slackened the tracks and the suspension, no weight on them. The turnbuckles were used to lift the bottom of the tracks to keep them from dragging. my take on it anyway.

 

The instructions are wrong.

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As far as I can gather, the suspension was raised, lifting the wheels up, when in transport mode. Then the slack in the tracks was taken up with turnbuckles, to stop them sagging onto the rails.

 

When firing the suspension was also raised to allow the "Tank" to sit on its belly.

 

The instructions are wrong, the lowered suspension, (Wheels down), is only for moving the gun.

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As far as I can gather, the suspension was raised, lifting the wheels up, when in transport mode. Then the slack in the tracks was taken up with turnbuckles, to stop them sagging onto the rails.

 

When firing the suspension was also raised to allow the "Tank" to sit on its belly.

 

The instructions are wrong, the lowered suspension, (Wheels down), is only for moving the gun.

 

Right. The first illustration could easily mean rail transport, while the second illustration would be the other transport mode, meaning self propelled, while again the first illustration would also be firing mode, as Nige has concluded. The instructions are wrong.

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