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Posted

The canopy is fully masked inside and out. In pictures i can see the edge of the canopy hood needs a flange. The top of the windshield still needs a mirror.

 

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Posted

Added the flange to the vacform hood. 
Also installed a new light above the bench. Makes a world of difference!

 

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  • Like 9
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Posted

Baby steps. Working on the canopy frame. 
This had to be painted prior to installing for obvious reasons

 

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  • Like 8
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Posted

Bought some paint masks today. I can alter the serial to P7111 and the codes i can cut myself with my mask cutter.

Started to install the inner framing of the canopy.

 

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  • Like 9
Posted

Jeroen all is looking good and up to your usual specs!I received my boxing a couple of days ago it's the high-tech version will go Quintas on the inside.:unworthy:

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Posted

Installed the inner frame. A real pain!

Also assembled the 3d printed and resin nose. The fit to fuselage is nice. But i will pose it on the ground.

 

 

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  • Like 10
Posted
On 2/11/2024 at 6:23 AM, JeroenPeters said:

Just went to the range to focus on something else.

Not long enough of a range and you got to ditch the scope!:D

I have been studying this morning getting ideas.;)

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Posted

Back to the flaps... 

Very complicated design indeed.

Check this video. See how the radiator flaps open and close on the flap movement.

 

This means I should actually keep the radiotor flaps closed, if I pose the flaps fully extended. Or... extend the flaps half-way.

 

 

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And then there is the question. How do I 3d model the end rails of the flaps. Like in the photo above, or with the 'shoe' like in the video?

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I don't see the 'shoe' shape in this drawing either:

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Posted

Jeroen don't know about the 3D solution but a scratch built whether the shoe be brass/card and a brass rod to which I am sure you are up to.;)

If deployed?

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Posted

The shoe shaped end rails are included in the kit. Indid 3d draw the flap ends. The flaps can actually be moved and hinge in the right place now. I extended them half way and opened the radiator flaps. Now i need to make the two little stubs on the flap that actually push the radiator flaps up during movement. If that makes sense

 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

This is so very British. Yuck. :) mesmerizing process Jeroen. One of a kind . 

Is that in a "why make an easy solution when we can come up with one that will give future modelers fits" :lol:

  • Haha 3
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Posted

In the meantime I'm also working on the engine. Hardly any info exists (or can be found) on the oil tank positioned on the rear of the engine. 

I'll see what I can draw based on what I can find...

 

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Posted

In the meantime started cleaning up the parts for the gear and resin wheels.

The 3d printed gunsight is very delicate. While snipping of the supports i managed to damage the power cable. Made a replacement piece of cable from a piece of support. You can see some thick glue where i messed up. Will sand this down as soon as it had hardened.

 

 

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Posted
11 hours ago, GusMac said:

Looking very cool. Any reason you print them transparent?

Other than not reading the label on the resin bottle before pouring: no :))

  • Haha 6
Posted

Impressive skillset Jeroen. Just a quick question, what glue are using for canopy detailing ? And where did you get your lamp, I love it! :)

Cheers

Martin

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Posted
10 minutes ago, Martinnfb said:

Impressive skillset Jeroen. Just a quick question, what glue are using for canopy detailing ? And where did you get your lamp, I love it! :)

Cheers

Martin

Thnx!

I use Zap a Gap. Love that stuff.

The light is from Amazon. Brand: Bravzurg. 

 

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Posted
11 hours ago, JeroenPeters said:

Other than not reading the label on the resin bottle before pouring: no :))

Glad I'm not the only one that does things like that! If it looks as good as the Me262 bomb sights under primer then who cares what it's printed in.

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