bucky_s Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 This is WNW's Fokker D.VII (Alb), which I have chosen to do as Richard Kraut's Oct-Nov 1918 Jasta 63 mount primarily because the scheme nicely highlights the "dirty" brownish 4-color loz I have always liked on D.VIIs for its grim "We're losing the war -- no more time for clowning around"/"You've cost us half ze sqvadron, Stachel!" businesslike feel (cue Jerry Goldsmith's "Retreat" and/or "Stachel to Berlin" from "The Blue Max" soundtrack here). I was also inspired to do this scheme after receiving a beautiful set ot Aviattic loz decal complements of Mr. Richard William Andrews, co-founder of the company, last summer. Delighted to finally have the opportunity to put these superb decals to use. Aviattic 4-color lower loz on the cockpit rear bulkhead, kit "cookie cut" loz on the steel former tubing (finally had to resort to using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to get this to settle properly -- a decalling first for me). Main structures have gotten some initial washing and drybrushing.Using the kit "cookie cut" reversed interior loz as a (rought) cutting template for the Aviattic replacement. Cockpit components coming together, not rigged yet. Steel former "chipping" done with brush and Tamiya enamel XF-1 Flat Black. Kit loz used on firewall upper section. Homemade turnbuckles (heat-stretched plastic lollipop sticks) and 0.8 gauge monofilament fishing line magic-markered and drybrushed with Tamiya enamel Dark Iron. Flooring is a custom "generic new wood" lacquer mix sprayed on and given a burnt sienna artist's oil wash. Ditto instrument panel, with a little darker final effect there (suggesting a higher quality and more thoroughly worked wood than the floor).Kit PE belts were replaced with custom cut Tamiya masking tape strips (approx. 1.5mm wide). Buckles, detailed reinforced stitching areas were retained from the kit PE, and glued onto the tape belts with CA. Note turnbuckles are now Dark Iron to match rigging wire. All interior wiring pretty much done here (and the last time a lot of it will ever be seen!): rudder/elevator wiring for control column and rudder pedals; pipe from fuel pump; electrical trigger wires for the Spandaus; throttle connector.Scratched 1/32 spark plugs: Core is 0.3mm diameter brass wire: "hex nut" is from an old Modelkasten tank nuts/bolts set, drilled here to 0.3mm to accept brass core; "insulator" is more heat-stretched lollipop stick, in this case heat-stretched with a 0.3mm piano wire running through it to act as a sort of "male mold" for the desired diameter here.Welding and drilling (0.3mm holes) jig for replacement plug-lead guide pipes for the Daimler engine.Dry-fitting test for plug lead guide pipes on engine construction/painting jig (CA'ed balsa); note "port" note on jig to remind me to keep the starboard and port guide pipes from getting mixed up. Rocker "springs" are stripped electrical wiring (0.15mm) wound directly on top of the kit piece "springs". Next time I build a Daimler, I think I'm going to use the Taurus parts for this area of the engine.Plugs in, not painted yet.Plug leads (stripped copper electrical wiring, 0.2mm -- later painted up to a better scale thickness) attached to plugs, threaded through painted and installed guide piping.Plug lead ends, using same 0.2mm copper wiring, attached to magnetos. All wiring will get a final coat of dark grey paint after I'm reasonably sure I won't have to be touching the engine any more. Piping from manifold to sump water pump is 0.6mm solder wire. Triple pipe leads attached to this are 0.3mm solder wire gathered in a section of heat-stretched lollipop (the Spanish brand "Chupachups") stick. Wiring from the air pump at the top front of the engine is 0.5mm annealed brass wire soldered together, run down to a "valve" attachment point kitbashed from an unused part on the kit's "E" sprue. Bullets first painted flat black, then drybrushed with Mr. Hobby buffable brass lacquer. Belts for the 7.92mm Spandau ammo are cut from clear decal stock painted with one of the Vallejo colors -- IIRC (I've used this same piece of decal stock for years now, on many projects) Khaki Grey.Aviattic "factory fresh" 4-color loz with HGW "faded" 4-color loz ribtapes.For reasons that should be evident in the next photograph, my particular method for weathering ribtapes requires that they be 3-D (I need the hard edges to catch and hold wash material)Top wing (Fokker made, minus 5-color loz-finished Albatros ailerons) oversprayed with the 1:10 Tamiya acrylic XF-52 Dark Earth/X-22 Clear mix suggested in the kit painting instructions. I'm very pleased with the color shift here, which really matches the sort of "lentil soup" pallette I've always associated in my mind's eye with late war D.VIIs (the better to give even an extra second or two of reaction time to the beleaguered German pilots flying over devastated brown Western Front moonscapes, spied from above by Allied pilots with height advantage)More to come soon. My next major construction phase will probably be to glue up and loz the fuselage. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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