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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

He 162 A-2 Revell


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Okay gentlemen, thanks for your nice words!!! I know that this was for sure my fault, I have taken the things from my wife, from time to time she make some oilpaintings and this is the stuff that I used:

 

IMG_0637.jpg

 

 

and so I decided to build the body new, I anyway have made some mistakes. But this time I will ask you first: I wanna try weathering with oil color. So what should I buy??

 

Thanks Arno

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I usually spray with Gunze or Tamiya acrylics. For adding a pinwash I spray Gunze/Tamiya clear (Future or one of the similar products can be used too) and then I use an oil color diluted by "wasbenzine"; Google Translate translates that as "benzene", but I'm not sure if that is correct... I also use regular turpentine, whatever I have at hand.

 

Regular turpentine / white spirit shouldn't attack acrylics but as far as I know, the Vallejo's, Xtracrylics etc. are are somewhat more vulnerable than Gunze/Tamiya.

 

Maybe it's an idea to use the color of your choice on a scrap part, seal the paint with Gunze/Tamiya clear or Future and then add the wash. Remember, use a bit of oil colour and a lot of turpentine to mix a watery brown/black/whatever colour in a dish or some other container. If you bring on some of it with a number 000 paintbrush it should flow through the panelline because of the capillary action of the wash.

 

If all else fails you can get water-based washes by MiG, Ammo or Vallejo, AK. It won't hurt your thoroughly dried paintwork but won't flow as easily either.

 

Good luck!!

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Just me here. I over coat with Testors (MM) clear lacquer gloss. I use a product here in the States called "Mona Lisa Odorless Paint Thinner" It is very well known for how weak it is. Mix's well with my brand of oil paints but will not attack the clear coats. After washes I cover with a flat coat then weather.

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Thanks my friends for the fast answers. Slowly I think also that the Vallejo varnish is not very resistent, my Turpentine removes it and this is a special Turpentine for Oil painting. So I think its saver to stay with my acrylic washing <_<

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I've used Vallejo water base weathering washes with go success so far. The Ju88 will be the first build where I will seal with Future before applying decals and then seal again afterwards finally using Tester Matt finish which I'm told works very well.

I didn't do this on the Bf110 and because it was painted matt black the decals on the fuselage had a slight smoky look after they dried.

All a learning curve, lol!!

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I use Flory washes. It's clay based and works great. Wiping it off with some kitchen towel and

Bob's your uncle,

Good to see you continuing this great build.

Cheers

Cees

Translate for me please. Sounds funny.

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Gentleman, Bob is my uncle  B) I tried my best and it was interesting for me to see, what I was able to do with the original parts and the Eduard PE.

 

IMG_0679.jpg

 

a few shadows:

 

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The first cables

 

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and finished

 

IMG_0722.jpg

 

 

IMG_0725.jpg

 

 

IMG_0727.jpg

 

 

IMG_0729.jpg

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Finally I made some progress:

 

Try to use here the BMF

 

IMG_0737.jpg

 

 

Works not to bad

 

IMG_0738.jpg

 

 

And a lot of tiny decals  :wacko:

 

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After spraying it with Future, a new try with Oil color. Maybe a little to much?

 

IMG_0757.jpg

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But again the rectified turpentine attacks my Future coat. To my luck only on the test model! But why?!?!?! On videos it always looks so easy, coat of Future, Oil turpentine mix on the plane, let it dry and wipe the excess away. So far so good, but with me all has dry so much, I can wipe it just away and when I start to rub, all come off  :blink:  :wacko:

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