Members Mikester Posted June 10, 2014 Members Posted June 10, 2014 Ouch! Man that sucks, any hope of recovery?
colt6 Posted June 10, 2014 Author Posted June 10, 2014 Okay gentlemen, thanks for your nice words!!! I know that this was for sure my fault, I have taken the things from my wife, from time to time she make some oilpaintings and this is the stuff that I used: and so I decided to build the body new, I anyway have made some mistakes. But this time I will ask you first: I wanna try weathering with oil color. So what should I buy?? Thanks Arno
colt6 Posted June 10, 2014 Author Posted June 10, 2014 So, enough crying! I start with the new Main wheel bay, because the Aires is gone, but I have the Eduard PE parts left First try to make new springs
RalphSarc Posted June 10, 2014 Posted June 10, 2014 Oh good to see that the kit /build can be resurrected. Funny that you're doing springs as I was just going to try that myself with some tools my wife has! 1
colt6 Posted June 13, 2014 Author Posted June 13, 2014 I have tried now Rectified turpentine, it also removes my Vallejo colors!!! What should I use for oil washing? The product from MIG???? Please Help me!
One-Oh-Four Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 I usually spray with Gunze or Tamiya acrylics. For adding a pinwash I spray Gunze/Tamiya clear (Future or one of the similar products can be used too) and then I use an oil color diluted by "wasbenzine"; Google Translate translates that as "benzene", but I'm not sure if that is correct... I also use regular turpentine, whatever I have at hand. Regular turpentine / white spirit shouldn't attack acrylics but as far as I know, the Vallejo's, Xtracrylics etc. are are somewhat more vulnerable than Gunze/Tamiya. Maybe it's an idea to use the color of your choice on a scrap part, seal the paint with Gunze/Tamiya clear or Future and then add the wash. Remember, use a bit of oil colour and a lot of turpentine to mix a watery brown/black/whatever colour in a dish or some other container. If you bring on some of it with a number 000 paintbrush it should flow through the panelline because of the capillary action of the wash. If all else fails you can get water-based washes by MiG, Ammo or Vallejo, AK. It won't hurt your thoroughly dried paintwork but won't flow as easily either. Good luck!! 2
Paulster Posted June 14, 2014 Posted June 14, 2014 Just me here. I over coat with Testors (MM) clear lacquer gloss. I use a product here in the States called "Mona Lisa Odorless Paint Thinner" It is very well known for how weak it is. Mix's well with my brand of oil paints but will not attack the clear coats. After washes I cover with a flat coat then weather. 1
colt6 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Posted June 14, 2014 Thanks my friends for the fast answers. Slowly I think also that the Vallejo varnish is not very resistent, my Turpentine removes it and this is a special Turpentine for Oil painting. So I think its saver to stay with my acrylic washing
RalphSarc Posted June 14, 2014 Posted June 14, 2014 I've used Vallejo water base weathering washes with go success so far. The Ju88 will be the first build where I will seal with Future before applying decals and then seal again afterwards finally using Tester Matt finish which I'm told works very well. I didn't do this on the Bf110 and because it was painted matt black the decals on the fuselage had a slight smoky look after they dried. All a learning curve, lol!!
Wingco57 Posted June 14, 2014 Posted June 14, 2014 I use Flory washes. It's clay based and works great. Wiping it off with some kitchen towel and Bob's your uncle, Good to see you continuing this great build. Cheers Cees 1
Paulster Posted June 14, 2014 Posted June 14, 2014 I use Flory washes. It's clay based and works great. Wiping it off with some kitchen towel and Bob's your uncle, Good to see you continuing this great build. Cheers Cees Translate for me please. Sounds funny.
Wingco57 Posted June 15, 2014 Posted June 15, 2014 It's an expression such as: all is well. The Dutch say: Klaar is Kees. Confused? Don't be. Cees 1
colt6 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Posted June 16, 2014 Gentleman, Bob is my uncle I tried my best and it was interesting for me to see, what I was able to do with the original parts and the Eduard PE. a few shadows: The first cables and finished
Paulster Posted June 16, 2014 Posted June 16, 2014 Great wiring job. Inspirational to builders of all genre's 1
kahunaminor Posted June 17, 2014 Posted June 17, 2014 Yeah..that will work. Well done to take a disaster and make it a triumph. Regards, Kent 1
RalphSarc Posted June 17, 2014 Posted June 17, 2014 Amazing job my friend and great recovery from the great melting disaster, lol!!! Talk to you on Skype this week? 1
colt6 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Posted June 17, 2014 Ralph, hope so, because i'm looking forward to my weekly english lesson with you! 1
colt6 Posted June 21, 2014 Author Posted June 21, 2014 Finally I made some progress: Try to use here the BMF Works not to bad And a lot of tiny decals After spraying it with Future, a new try with Oil color. Maybe a little to much? 1
colt6 Posted June 21, 2014 Author Posted June 21, 2014 But again the rectified turpentine attacks my Future coat. To my luck only on the test model! But why?!?!?! On videos it always looks so easy, coat of Future, Oil turpentine mix on the plane, let it dry and wipe the excess away. So far so good, but with me all has dry so much, I can wipe it just away and when I start to rub, all come off
RalphSarc Posted June 21, 2014 Posted June 21, 2014 Wow those are all decals, lol!!! I would have been nuts after doing that!!! So the future spray failed?? Let's Skype in the AM tomorrow morning??
colt6 Posted June 22, 2014 Author Posted June 22, 2014 Think I let it this way Maybe a little too much, but you know: on a close up.... 3
kahunaminor Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Think I let it this way Maybe a little too much, but you know: on a close up.... They look good. Are they the MDC decal set? Regards, Kent 3
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