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1/32 Revell Bf 109G-10 Erla build

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Opened the boxes of the Brewster Buffalo, the 109 E-3 and the 110D-3, but couldn't make up my mind, so I'll start a G-10 instead :hsmack:
Already have both Barracuda decal sets and HGW seat belts....and I expect to receive he Barracuda prop this week.

That's all I'll use. Will scratch build some missing details, but nothing exciting.


Leaning towards one of the many JG (JGr) 300 schemes...nice looking fuselage band. Will make up my mind soon.

I'll try to make it some sort of a speed build...want to finish it before I start the GB Spit


I won't bore you all to death with many updates, because I don't want to be responsible for causing a 109 allergy.


Mike and Matt review bookmarked...so here I go (again).





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Same here...filled a tray with cut off parts.


Now we're on the subject...I noticed the G-10 kit only has the metal treaded foot board, while the G-6(early/late) kit also had the late war wooden foot board.

The later seems more logical, but I'm not sure. I can scavenge it from another G-6 kit when needed.


Mike will know...waiting for his verdict  :)


btw I'll do the "yellow 6", Mike already did the "blue 1"

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Mike verdict: "probably a Revell blooper".


Since I have another G-10 on the shelf and since I run out of wooden foot boards this way, I'll make a copy of the one I still have.


I'll make this G-10 with an open canopy, so the pit will get some extra love.


More asap

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Finished the plumbing on one side panel...


Removed most of the original plumbing and replaced it with stretched sprue, evergreen, brass wire, aluminium tube and scrap PE.

Made it all somewhat more 3 dimensional.


On to the other side now...that's the easier side, so I hope to speed up a bit :rolleyes:

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And forgot to show this...




Opened the exhausts and made the welding seams from stretched sprue.

Thought about making the bolts next to the exhaust (like on the Brassin) with my hex punch and die thing,but they won't be visible in any way or form. So decided not to...call me a barbarian.

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They're not much work really. Just a 0.4mm drill bit in between thumb and index finger...drill 2 shallow holes next to eachother. Then put the bit in one of them and work sideways until the two holes become one and continue until the hole is nice enough. One hour to finish both. The Revell plastic is very workable (read: soft).


The weld seams are dead easy also. Very thin stretched sprue. Glue with a tiny drop (the thin sprue melts instantly) of liquid glue at the bottom of the exhaust. When dry, gently pull it over the top and fix with another small drop. Cut off what sticks out when set.


It's some work, but it's not difficult.


In a childish manner I told myself:

When I buy 2 of these kits and don't buy the Brassin exhaust and undercarriage, I get the Barracuda props and a third kit for free.

Completely flawed logic of course, but a good excuse to keep the 109 production line going :rolleyes:


This, on the other hand.....


....took me a whole day and it's still not finished :blink:


And so I soldier on :lol:

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That's quick, very nice progress. If you try to find a set standard regarding cockpit furnishing that is a real minefield. Considering the state of the German aircraft industry and the dispersed factories any combination of equipment is possible.



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That's quick, very nice progress. If you try to find a set standard regarding cockpit furnishing that is a real minefield. Considering the state of the German aircraft industry and the dispersed factories any combination of equipment is possible.



That's how I like it. Like building Israeli Sherman's. You want to tell me it's wrong? Prove it.

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Thanks guys!
I think I spend more time searching for...and checking... pit photos and even original flight manuals then actually building.
Loads and loads of them...G-6, G-10, G-14, K-4...and available aftermarket pits. No two pits were the same. (K-4 significantly different btw).
This makes it hard to do it right,  but it also gives some freedom for an "artistic approach".
Most helpful are the photos from 109s in a sorry state. At least nothing was altered. The Eduard G-6 Brassin pit seems pretty good...I downloaded the manual and some photos of it. This helped me a lot. With a closed canopy the Revell version is good enough, but when open...it really need some work. I don't think Revell did anything wrong, but a lot of details are missing or too superficial. Again...not bad and will look nice with a closed hood.
Only real no no is the welded on seat belts. Please Revell...stop doing that :huh:
It's also weird Revell only gave the early metal foot board, while the G-6 kit has the early and the late wooden foot board. G-10 surely had the later.
The manual also tells you to use the wrong (mk108) gun breech (see Mike/Matt review).
Leaves me with 2 unsolved questions.
The Eduard Brassin set has a control panel with a ZSK244 A-2 (Zünderschaltkasten) panel underneath the Instrument panel...just above the gun breech. Isn't this a Jabo only thing?

ZSK244 A-2


Next question...on the left side of the seat tub I seen 2 vertical brackets on photos.

The Eduard Brassin has some sort of "slab" hold in place by those brackets.


Is this a map storage? Someone has a clear photo of it? Made of leather, canvas, wood, aluminium?

For the fun of it...I downsized a "Bordnotkarte" to 1/32....8.5x4.3mm (folded to half size in a map), so when it's a map case...that's where I'll put it :lol:


Looking forward to get my airbrush into action tomorrow :)


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Btw...forgot to mention...Micro Kristal Klear is great stuff to make small knobs on tiny handles.


Also fantastic to hold small pe parts in place before the final drop of ca glue to fix it, works much nicer than the regular PVA glue I used before.

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I'm not sure if the arming panel for the bomb was always present on the G-10 but I suspect most aircraft would have it.  Late war fighters flew a considerable amount of "Jabo" missions.  Not sure what brackets you're referring to, I'll need to take a look at my set.

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The small air intake scoops...
Luckily they're hollow on the inside. Made it very easy to open them.
More or less the same trick I used to open exhaust stacks. A 0.4mm drill bit...small hole in the centre and "grind" to the edges.
Finished with a 0.2mm bit in the corners.

Not too bad


But this is bad....

I tried the Revell IP decals, but they look rediculous.

Light grey???? why!? why...oh why? They're perfectly fine in the G-6 early/late kit.

Revell....don't change something when it's good :censored:


To sort it out I used the Airscale decals, but they don't fit properly...too large.

The Revell ip is probably too small, because of the thickness of the fuselage and pit walls.

Can't blame Airscale for this, but the result is not what I wanted. Such a bummer, I'll probably do a closed canopy after all.

I have plenty more 109s and one open will do...perhaps with a Brassin pit :(


shame, because I'm pretty proud of the rest of the pit.


Seatbelts, control stick and I can close the fuselage and move on.


More soon,


Rob :piliot:

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MDC do Luftwaffe instrument decals that should do the job....


Airscale's stuff is correctly scaled from the original parts' dimensions - does go to show how the panels have to be 'shrunk' to fit into a 'pit with way overscale thickness fuselage skin.


Nice work by the way.



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Thanks! I'll check them out for sure.


For now I think I swap this ip with a fresh one and use spare G-6 early/late decals....it's the same ip anyway.


Eager to do an open canopy, also because I just found a "new" (and possibly most awesome) am Revi 16B.

They're from NorthStar (huh? who? never heard of them. well...me neither)

I'll write a review when I receive them. B)


For now...nothing to show, done the seatbelts and prepared the fuselage for closure, but all know how how seatbelts look and and a prepped fuselage isn't very exciting either.


More soon though...the 109 production line is working overtime! In my case...that's snail pace + :unsure:





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