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Posted

Peter:  yes - the part fits ok width-wise; just misaligned when I took the pics.

 

George:  agreed - the kit surface detail is much crisper.  Interesting considering the complex work that the company does with seats, exhaust pipes etc.  The resin looks and feels quite different to their usual stuff too.  Yes - the shape is a big improvement on the kit part.  Might be able to extend the resin part with a plastic shim.  Sent a polite "here are some feedback pics" email to QB - perhaps something good will come of it. 

 

I was considering ordering one of these but looks like you saved me the trouble, Ralph!  Hopefully you get it sorted out without too much difficulty.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Mike:  Aires/Quickboost replied saying that shrinkage of large resin parts was common and that I should be able to fix the fit by adding some plastic.  Who knows - maybe another sample would fit as intended.

 

Some fiddly bits while thinking about fixes, and waiting for Quickboost (!) exhausts...

 

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Tried stippling some 502 Abteilung Abt100 Faded Grey onto the prop blades and adding thinned AK Interactive AK 070 Brown Blue enamel wash for Panzer Grey Vehicles - which looks more like a very dark green.

 

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XF-57 Buff on tyres wet-sanded back to give an impression of running on clean-ish concrete runway; Vallejo 70988 Khaki mud spatter/wash; watery Vallejo 70950 Black for hub marks; some AMMO A.MIG 1408 Fresh Engine Oil on one hub just for the fun of it.  Vallejo 70822 German Cam. Black Brown chips on the tail wheel yoke.  EagleCals stencils on the undercarriage leg...

 

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  • Like 7
Posted

Erik:  Mask E from Eduard's "JX 505 Spinner spirals for Fw 190D" was a pretty good match for the profile artwork in Jerry Crandall's Dora book.  handy mask set if you like 190's.

Posted

John:  kit wheels.  Not a big fan of the sanded-flat look, but never worked out a way of softening plastic to get the weighted look.  The toe-in on 190s and Spitfires adds to the challenge.  In the meantime, I just have a laugh and think of the 75 pound pressure "experimental tyres" from Thompson's "Fear and loathing in Las Vagas" yarn.

  • Like 1
Posted

Great stuff Ralph... I had the same issue with my Eagle Parts Gun cowl.. I know I have another one somewhere, Want to test that one too

Posted

Gun cowl "fix".  Thanks to local modelling friend Zsolt for the "where to start" suggestions as I wouldn't usually try this sort of thing...

 

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Dry-fitting suggests good chance of passable result.

 

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Fastener detail at the very front of the gun cowl will need filling/replacing as I made the rear cut too far back and had to trim the resulting excess at the front...

 

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Obvious misalignment where the top cowl flap meets the front of the gun cowl.

 

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Small gaps will close with very light pressure.

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

Dave:  the resin/plastic graft was suggested by George.  Someone more pracitsed at scratch/mod stuff would no doubt get the measure/cut thing right first time.

Posted

I was thinking of trying using the resin bugle part and then graf in the plastic gun cover... but your method looks better

Posted

Gun deck on...

 

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10 thou card added to the top cowl flaps to make up the gap...

 

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Step where the gun deck meets the cowl ring...

 

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Cowl flap card reshaped and riveted; front stepped shimmed...

 

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Close enough methinks...

 

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Nearly time for paint...

  • Like 6
Posted

Camo on...

 

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Topside camo:  Light Grey = 2:3 XF-19 Sky Grey and XF-80 Royal Light Grey, post-shade with 50% XF-2 Flat White added;  RLM81 Brown-violet = 4:1:1 XF-9 Hull Red, XF-64 Red Brown and Gunze H406 Chocolate Brown, post=shaded with XF-9; RLM82 Dark Green = XF-61 Dark Green post-shaded with XF-67 NATO Green; RLM83 Bright Green = XF-58 Olive Green; RLM84 (version 3) = 2:3 XF-2 and XF-76 Grey Green (IJN), post-shaded with 50% XF-2 added, and then with the light grey mix.

 

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Underside colours:  NMF = Floquil Old Silver with a few panels in XF-16 Flat Aluminium and X-11 Chrome Silver; RLM75 Grey Violet = 4:1 Gunze H69 RLM75 Grey and XF-50 Field Blue, post-shaded with 50% white added; ailerons = 3:1 XF-2 and XF-23 Light Blue, post-shaded with 50% white added.

 

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Runny Humbrol Maskol stippled into the wing root for chipping effect.

 

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The profile artwork in Mr Crandall's book shows a bright green on the gun deck which I couldn't see in the accompanying colour callouts.  The RLM81 in the port wing root makes for something different.

 

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Had some issues trying to remove the Montex mask adhesive from the NMF areas.

 

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Topside markings next...

  • Like 8
Posted

Another hiccup...  The "6" in the Montex mask set for the Revell boxing is accurate in size to the kit decal sheet, but a lot smaller than in Mr Crandall's artwork.  The Revell decal instructions also call out the shorter vertical bar.  Happily the horizontal bar mask meant for another kit option was close to Mr Crandall's artwork.  No Hakenkreuz masks in the Montex set.

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

Sooooo..........whats the plan? I'v got a D9 in the stash which is in the big tail Has boxing but turned out to be the normal D9 kit. Ripped hardcore at the expo swap n sell. This makes me want to rip into it pretty bad, I can almost smell the exhaust fumes.........

  • Like 2
  • Members
Posted

Ralph, I've got the Revell boxing of the big tail, should have the black "6", I can mail them you if need them.  And another "holy crap that's good!" on the paint.

Posted

-coming along nicely Ralph, looking forward to the weathering stage.

 

Maybe you could make your own "6" mask. You could measure and sketch one out with a straight rule in block letter form then all you'd have to do is round out the corners with a circle template. 

 

BTW I forgot to say, your weathering on your prop looks absolutely incredible, you don't see to many people get that right but you've nailed it spot on, well done !

 

Cheers,

Pete

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Very big thanks to Mal Mayfield for cutting the correctly-sized "6" masks.  EagleCals decals for the stencils.

 

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Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

  • Like 4

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