mywifehatesmodels

Thanks for the comments, guys. I just came back from a modeling hiatus of several months and saw your posts. Much appreciated! I built the Revell G about 20 years ago. Not a bad kit for it's age, but it just really shows it's age, if you know what I mean. I would drive myself crazy trying to build it up to anywhere near today's standards (industry, as well as my own). I keep holding on to hope that there will be a new tool kit of the G coming. Hopefully soon! That's one area where the instructions are really poor, for sure. I got them in without too much trouble. Even though I'm pretty sure they're not "correct", I don't have anything to really go on that would show what "correct" really is! I'll have to go find your build. I really liked this kit and enjoy seeing it being built. I don't think it gets enough recognition for how good of a kit it really is, overall. Thanks again, John

I was able to get the flap bays both installed and primed/painted. I had to replace one rib, but they turned out better than expected. Now I need to proceed at getting everything else ready and figure out what the paint scheme is going to be! Thanks, John

Today I managed to get the flap bays completed. I started with the starboard side. It was a little rough to start, with several of the ribs popping off while trying to twist them into position. There's plenty of glue staining on this one, but I'm hoping that a priming/painting will cover most of it. The port side, which isn't glued into place yet, is much better. Having learned some tricks from the first side, I was able to keep it a lot cleaner. The fit into the fuselage is perfect, with one exception. You need to cut a notch for the flap bay out of the wing root area. I've outlined that in a photo, below. Tomorrow, I hope to finish installing the port bay and prime/paint them. So far, so good! John

Thanks, Bevan! Here's some more, from the last couple days. [/url] Ready to start on the flaps, now. It's making me nervous! Cover me! I'm goin' in! ...and could somebody hold my beer?! John

Thanks, Bevan! I managed to get most of the cockpit done over the weekend. Still plenty to do, but I'm almost ready to button it up! Also, the M-888B conversion requires that you fill in the access panels on the forward fuselage, then scribe a different one, on the starboard side, only. I haven't scribed it yet, but it's almost ready. Cheers, John

Speechless!

The last couple weeks have been crazy busy and there's been some changes made in the build plan for this one. So, I wasn't really able to get back to it until a couple days ago. In short, the Eduard PE sets are very time consuming, but I'm making progress, at least (finally!). Also, the decision has been made to use the later M-88B engine/cowl, as there seems to be more cool schemes available for that option. However, we haven't decided on exactly which scheme, yet. Soon, hopefully, as I always find myself more motivated and I have a mental image of what it's going to look like when completed. This is only really the beginning of the interior. Still a LOT to be done, but I'm taking it slowly. The PE flap set is also going to be used on this one and it's a huge undertaking. Given that, as well as the design of this kit, I'm trying to carefully plot out, in my mind, exactly the best way to assemble it all. I'll try to keep the thread updated and maintain my motivation! Thanks for looking and for your support, John

Dennis, I'm glad you like the build and find it inspirational. The color scheme is one thing that I was worried about, going into this project. There's not much solid proof of anything in that regard and with so many "experts" around, it's sometimes intimidating to take on something like this, for fear of being torn apart for my decisions. I had to stick to my gut feelings on it and try to see my vision to it's conclusion, even if it doesn't match what some others may see. In the end, this one is for ME and that's what really matters, I guess. I've given up on trying to please others and life is easier that way. If I were building it for someone else, then it would be a different story. However, in any case, the response to this build has been very positive and I greatly appreciate that. In fact, I'm actually surprised by how much people seem to like it. Apparently they "get it". My vision, that is. But, who knows? Maybe the next one will be a disaster? Thanks again, John

I'll second what Mr. Hatch said. Best 88 pit I've ever seen. Spectacular work, Jeroen! John

Found it, Rog! The slat fix is on page 2, but here's the WIP thread link: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=41371 John

Rog, I haven't used the engine set, or seen it in a WIP yet (but would have to do some searching for a bit to see if someone else has done it). Are you going to display the engine, opened up? The gap on the belly really wasn't a big issue, but I just thought I would point it out. As for the slats, I know I cut mine and glued the rear portion to the wing and blended it in, using the forward remainder to represent the slats. That trick is out there, as I robbed it from someone else. However, it's most likely outlined in my build thread over at LSP. I can dig it up for you, if need be. When you get your build started and get to the painting/weathering phase, I'm sure you will get plenty of input from people, especially those that use/have used the same kind of paint. But, don't let it intimidate you. You'll be just fine, I'm sure. John

Rog, It looks like you have pretty much everything you're going to need, and then some. For a CA applicator, the skewers should work pretty well for most spots. I would also recommend using a needle or straight pin for the really small applications. As the dried CA starts to build on the tip, it will allow you to get a little more control over how big of a drop you want to use. The beauty of it is that you can just scrape off the old glue if you feel it's getting too chunky at the tip and start over. This is much harder to do with wood, or even plastic applicators. Once you start playing and practicing with CA and applicators, you'll get a feel for what works. I'm lucky(?) in that I also have hypodermic needles around which come in very handy as applicators of CA, decal setting solution and the like. But, I realize that not everyone has access to these. I have a prescription medication that requires me to take an injection once per week. So, all the syringes are put in a bin on my hobby bench when I'm finished (and the vac plastic containers that they come in also make for great paint/glue mixing trays, so I keep those, too!). The only down side to the syringe is that, once you use it for CA, it's pretty much useless as a syringe afterwards. But, that's what I use as an applicator in most instances and I have enough of them around to keep me in steady supply. With regards to you posting your build and your comments about the process: First of all, I didn't think your comments came across as arrogant, at all. In fact, you make a very good point that's given me a moment of pause. That is regarding what I post about the processes I use while building something, especially when it's anything more involved than "glue part A to part B". Now, this could also come across as ME being arrogant, but that's certainly not my intention, either. The thought process, when I'm posting a WIP thread, is that most of the people reading it probably already know how to do it and I'm afraid of boring them, or that it might appear as if I'm assuming they don't know how this stuff is done and I don't want to appear as though I'm patronizing them, either. It's more the former, however. I pretty much assume that everyone reading it is a better modeler than I am. From time to time I need a reminder, I guess, of what "AssU..Me" means, again. So, with that being said, if you're ever reading one of my posts and want more details on how I did, or am going to do something, don't be afraid to ask! I want to help people as much as possible and give back to the community for everything I have taken from it. I use (rip off?) people's techniques all the time....because I admire their work. I hope that's viewed by them as flattery, because I view them as some of the best modellers on the planet and aspire to become as good as they are. But, in the end, I think we're all in it together and that's one of the things I love about this forum is that there doesn't seem to be any arrogance, at all. So, Rog, feel free to post away, with whatever you're comfortable with. I'm sure everyone here will cheer you on and help out if necessary. Also, don't sell yourself short. You may find that people are actually learning something from it, too. I can honestly say that, after posting models/builds on several forums over the years, there are a couple that I am still hesitant to post on, for all the same reasons you have stated above. But, this forum is different. That's why I'm spending time here (and also LSP, my other favorite). If there is criticism, it's constructive and helping, sharing, or learning always come before someone's ego. That's the way it should be. I've built the Eduard 109. If I could offer one word of advice, before starting, it would be to watch out for the fit of the nose, especially if you're planning to glue the cowl in place. It will likely take some dry-fitting and omission of some of the parts underneath the cowl panels (possibly even sanding some of them down) to get it to fit right. I also recall a gap to be filled on the belly, where the wing bottom meets the fuselage at the rear. I believe most, if not all, of the people who have built this kit have had to deal with these issues. So, if you get to that point and are thinking "what did I do?", it's not you! Now, mine also has some twist in the left wing. That was all on ME!!!! Cheers, John

Looking great, Mike. Glad to see the other half of this comparison coming together. John

I built one or two of their early armor kits, which did not impress me in the least. However, I built their Bf 109F kit a while back and was quite impressed. The instructions can be a little frustrating in translation, but if you are paying close attention it will start to make sense. If there's one thing I really don't like about their kits, it would be the decals. Kind of thick and frosty, so I 'll likely be painting whatever markings we decide on. Reviews of this kit seem to be very favorable, overall. Thanks! John

Great work on a great kit. Built one years ago, but keep hoping someone will scale it up. I would be in heaven if they did! John

Getting ready to start this build, which will be another for a friend of mine. Aside from the kit, I have the interior, exterior and flap sets from Eduard (5 or 6 sheets, total), as well as the SAC landing gear (which I may or may not end up using, depending on whether or not I feel they're actually an "upgrade"). I'm just waiting on the Vector cowl/engine to arrive, which will be the last piece of the puzzle. However, at this point, my friend hasn't indicated if he is sending the M-88 engine/cowl, which is what the kit is supposed to be out of the box, but Vector has improved upon, or the M-88B set, which was a slightly later variation and has a more streamlined shape, with a more "La-5 look" to it. Once I have the cowl set in hand, we'll work out the list of detail options and I'll be diving into this one. Hopefully, by the end of the week, things will be well under way. I'll post any updates as soon as I have something worth posting! Thanks for looking, John

You callin' me a cheapskate, George? You would be correct! John

Rog, Once again, I'll concur with George on most points (cuz he's a pretty smart guy!). For any of this stuff, I'm not sure what brands you have available. A lot of modellers have their favorites. With regards to CA glue, like George, I've found a generic brand available at Wal-Mart, over here, that's dirt cheap and actually performs better than any of the big name (and big money) brands that I've tried. One of the most important traits of CA glue, for my uses, is whether or not it shrinks after it cures, since I use it for seams on everything. Not just to join the parts, but also as a filler, so long as the gap isn't too large. Once it's cured, you can sand/polish it to be as smooth as glass, and often it can be almost as clear, also. However, if it's a brand/formula that has a tendency to shrink, you'll start seeing your seams reappear, under your paint work, which can be frustrating. I would run some tests with what you can find locally, or see what other modellers in Oz are using. There might be some local, secret weapon CA that they can recommend. For accelerator, check with craft/hobby outlets in your area. Also, as George recommended, using a toothpick, or some small applicator is a big plus. A lot of accelerators come in a small spray bottle, where you just pump a mist onto the part. I've found this to be very wasteful and often messy, as well. First off, you don't want to touch any paint that has accelerator on it, as it may damage the finish while it's wet (it's a pretty harsh chemical). However, it typically won't damage the paint, so long as you don't touch it while it's wet and it dries very fast. But, to avoid wasting the stuff and to get it ONLY where you need it, a toothpick, or some other applicator may work just fine. What I usually do is unscrew the little spray pump cap from my bottle and actually use the tip of the the little hose that runs down into the bottle, just touching it near the surface where the glue is and letting capillary action run it's course, causing the accelerator to flow into the joint. The tiniest drop will go a long way. As a matter of fact, I bought an 8 oz. refill bottle of accelerator, about ten years ago and I still have about 1/3 of it left and this was even after it took me a couple years to realize how wasteful using the spray pump was! Like I said, a little bit goes a LONG way. "Future" floor polish was made by the SC Johnson company, here in the states. A couple years back, they changed the name of the product to "Pledge, with Future Shine", which is supposed to be the same. I know it goes by another name in UK/Europe, but hopefully some more of our Aussie friends can point you in the right direction on what do look for, down under. I still have two bottles that I bought, years before the change in name, that I use for all of my canopy/clear parts. It has many other uses in modelling, but that's what I use it for. On canopies, it's good for making light scratches disappear, as well as making the part, as a whole, a lot more clear to the eye. However, one of it's biggest advantages, in my opinion, is that it also prevents clear parts from being fogged over by fumes from CA glue (and, as I stated before, hitting CA with accelerator also seems to reduce this risk, greatly). Most people talk about "dipping" parts in Future. It can also be sprayed through an airbrush. However, for my canopy parts, I use the two bottles and a funnel. Put the funnel in one bottle, then pour the Future over the clear part, being sure to get both sides, letting the excess run off and into the other bottle, through the funnel. Just be sure the funnel is clean (I have a dedicated "Future Funnel" that I use for this process). After you've coated your clear parts, let them sit on a paper towel, but you will also want to use a paper towel to try to wick away the excess from the edges, to avoid runs/bubbles. This will take a little bit of practice, but don't worry, because..... Another great thing about Future, is that you can remove it with ammonia. Drop a canopy into a cup of ammonia and swish it around for five seconds and the Future will be completely stripped away. Let it dry and you can start the process over again and the canopy won't suffer any damage from it. Even if Future is fully cured, ammonia will take it off, pretty much immediately. This also comes in handy if you run into trouble down the road, with paint of glue mishaps. So long as they haven't penetrated the coat of Future, you can strip it and start anew. Hope this helps! Cheers, John

Looking great, Mish. Things are about to start coming to life on this one, it would seem. John

Every time I look at this, I find more little details that make me smile. Great build. Great finish and a unique subject. I love it, Dan! John

Hi, Rog! Plain razor blades come in really handy for bending/folding some PE parts, as well. For resin, I prefer CA glue for just about everything (I use CA on 99.9% of all the plastic I build, too). However, as George suggested, epoxy gives you more working time and is especially useful for larger assemblies. For this particular build, you would probably be fine with just CA, but for large conversions, or complete resin kits, epoxy is a great medium. Oh, yes, if you haven't already used it, CA accelerator can be your best friend (or worst enemy). Get the part where you want it and put a drop in the join and it's instantly frozen in place. Just make sure it's in the RIGHT place, first! Also, accelerator also helps reduce the risk of fogging when using CA on clear parts (if your clear parts are coated in Future, or the like, then even better). Looking forward to seeing your 109. Sounds like a great project! John

Thanks, Mike. That means a lot, especially coming from you. John

Not sure how I missed this before, Cees, but WOW! What an ambitious but COOL project! John

That's utterly fantastic! And brush painted with acrylic, too? You are a brave soul, but it looks great. Weathering and the base look very realistic, as well. Thanks for sharing! John

Thanks for the support, gentlemen! Aaron, I'm not sure what my next LSM will be. I know that I will be starting a 1/48 scale Sukhoi Su-2 for a friend of mine, very soon. So, I'll have some time to think about it. I wanted to do a 1/35 Mi 24P Hind for the Chopper GB over at LSP, but I don't even have the kit yet. What I do have is a full stash full of more large aircraft that I would like to clean out. So, maybe another German twin before getting to the Hind (I have options of He 111P, Ju 88, 188, or 388, all in 1/32 scale and I can even do multiples of a couple of those! ). George, Thanks for the kind words. I've been a fan of the forced perspective photography for a long time. It can make a good model look like a great model, just by adding a little bit of "real life" to it. If you look real close in some of the photos, you can find traces of snow in the background. The funny thing about Minnesota, is that you can have 8-12 inches of snow on the ground one day (which is exactly what we got last week) and the next day it could melt away. I was fortunate enough to have "warm" weather over the weekend and last couple days, but it's going to go down hill from there. The last few days have been in the upper 30s and into the 40s(F), which is warm here for the winter. Usually by the end of January it's down to a "normal" 0 to -20 and temps as low as -40 are not far fetched. Thanks again, everyone! John