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The Great LSM Twins Group Build ends July 3, 2024 ×

Fw190 D-9 "Black 6", III./JG 2


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  • 3 weeks later...

Cheers Gents.


Jim:  I've been using the RB Productions Rivet-R tools for a while.  Will do so again for this one.  Have to find out more about the big tail - got an idea it was made of wood, so not sure about additional detail.


Cheers, Ralph.

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Hey Ralph, I sat down today and had an urge to start putting rivets into the wing of my Hasegawa 190d-9.  I've checked in on LSM this evening only to spot your WIP.

I must have of picked up on your 190d-9 vibe ! ( cue twilight zone music  :wacko: )


- Yes, some of the Ta 152 tails were made out of wood so perhaps the tails on "Black 6" and "Brown 4" were the same. There are some half decent pictures of both of these tail fins floating around so if you can spot any visible rivets that might give you a clue as to metal or wood.  -if that helps. 


Your photography looks really great, are you still shooting outside with a light tent or have you changed to indoors with  lights ?


All the best for the build ,



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Have to find out more about the big tail - got an idea it was made of wood, so not sure about additional detail.


Cheers, Ralph.


Definitely the metal tail on Sister W.Nr 500647, with visible rivets detail.




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Hello Peter:  have switched to indoor lighting.  Takes me a lot longer these days.


Hello Steve:  many thanks for the pic of W.Nr 500647 - very much appreciated.  The 4+ Publication "Focke-Wulf Ta 152" has some exploded views and 72nd scale plans so I'll close one eye and go with their suggested surface detail.

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Riveting started...


Start-finish points for the rivet lines are measured/marked using dividers.  Lines are rolled using an old piece of retractable carpenter's measuring tape which is firm but flexible, and RB Productions' Rivet-R wheel fitted with the 1 mm wheel.



The rivet wheel seems to skid on the Revell plastic, so the lines are marked with very light pressure (lighter top-to-bottom line next to the wheel).  I didn't notice this when building Revell's He 111 or Ar 196.  Different plastic perhaps?  This means deepening each hole with a stainless steel needle (darker holes on the rest of the wing part).



A light coat of Tamiya's grey surface primer was misted over the underwing panel insert areas to check for construction issues before adding the rivets lines.  Wet-sanding the lines with worn out 1200 grade Wet & Dry in preparation for the part-metal finish shows the "bump area" around the holes.  The amount of plastic pushed up by the needle is greater than that pushed up when using the needle on Hasegawa plastic.  Now hoping that the holes are deep enough to hold a wash.






As a side observation, the recessed surface detail on this example of Revell's repop doesn't match the crispness of the Hasegawa original.  Most of the recessed detail will need work to sharpen it up.

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Riveting - going well.  Aftermarket - not so well...





The revised shape is quite different from the kit part - just a tad short.  The "X" marks a small section of plastic removed so that the resin part could slide back to meet the firewall.  The cowl flap ring is all the way home.







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Hey Ralph, so the fit is a bit crap lengthways but how is it accross the fuselage ? Does it over lap on both sides or fall short on one ?


i only have the eagle parts cowl for mine but I haven't test fitted it yet

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Peter:  yes - the part fits ok width-wise; just misaligned when I took the pics.


George:  agreed - the kit surface detail is much crisper.  Interesting considering the complex work that the company does with seats, exhaust pipes etc.  The resin looks and feels quite different to their usual stuff too.  Yes - the shape is a big improvement on the kit part.  Might be able to extend the resin part with a plastic shim.  Sent a polite "here are some feedback pics" email to QB - perhaps something good will come of it. 

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