Fokker Dreidecker

[Jamme]

Great job, Bertl!

Congrats,

Jamme

[DougN]

Ok, it's been more than a week with no update.  I'm having withdrawal symptoms!

[Umlaufmotor]

Oh sorry Doug, I hope your nerves do not suffer too much under the withdrawal?
Muscle twitching, nervous twitching of the eyelids, speech disorders?
Now, .................we perform a quick healing process for you.

Here is the bottom board of the Fokker.

First a layer with Tamiya "Flesh".

 

Almost exactly in the middle of the floor, the "Flesh" is lightened with some white.
The position of the rudder linkage was observed for the ailerons, see the original image.

 

Around the bottom board edges is shaded with some yellow.

 

The wood grain was done with artist oil color burnt sienna and raw sienna.

 

Ok, so far so good,...............................but ........................

[Umlaufmotor]

.................... I did not like that.

That does not look convincing to my eyes.
I want something lighter, something that looks like a thin and light plywood.

OK, enough whining.
Away with the old paint - and a layer Gunze Radome over the floorboard.

 

In the middle somewhat lightened with white and shaded very carefully at the corners with Smoke.
Wood grain now done with raw sienna and very little and small dots with burnt sienna.

 

Yepp, that's what I wanted.  

 

Servus

Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

Now back to our barograph.
As a handle for the barograph-drawer, I use a 0.3 mm thick brass tubing.
This brass tube is bent into shape to fit with a strong pair of tweezers.
The ends of the handle are flattened with a flat pliers (in the area by the blue arrows).

 

So,the future handle is chemically blackened now.
This has the advantage, that I can imake fine scratches or flakings with a fine steel wool - the brass is visible again there.

The handle will be cut to length before being glued.

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

I use these images as a template for the outside and the "guts" of the barograph :

 

 

These pictures are of this French webside:

 

http://bleuhorizon.canalblog.com/archives/2007/02/24/4117538.html

 

Look in there necessarily, this is a gold mine for WW1 modeller.

 

Servus

Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

We start with trying these "guts" to reduce 32 times, now.
I am using Evergreen plastic and (WNW  ) scrap plastic, which is filed appropriately.

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[JeroenPeters]

Oh man... i just love this build more and more. Right up my alley.

Nice reference site by the way.

 

Are you going to use a wooden prop? If so, i can recommend Douglas Craner.

 

Cheers!

Jeroen

[Umlaufmotor]

It's time, to paint the inside of the barograph, now.

The base color is Gunze Radome.

 

The wood grain is painted with burnt sienna and raw sienna.

 

 

So that's all for this - and the next -, week of the barograph.

The wood grain has to dry - before continuing.  

 

Servus

Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

Hi Jeroen,

many many thanks for the tip.
I was long time thinking - should I use a wooden propeller - or not.
I really like the wooden propeller for your Fokker D.VII.
But  I'll probably use my selfmade method again, - colored pencils.
Here the propeller from my WNW Hansa Brandenburg. There I used colored pencils.

 

 

And here the propeller from my WNW Pfalz D.III. There I used colored pencils again.

This has the advantage that even the wood grain of the propeller can be matched to the original.

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

Now to a very delicate and fragile thing, the tubular frame of the cockpit.
Roden uses a very soft blend of plastic.

Not to compare with the stable frame of the WNW models.
But it is necessary for further detailed work that the frame is very stiff.
Therefore, the frame was stiffened with 0.8mm brass tube. 

Inside the brass tube a 0.3 mm steel wire was introduced.

0.3 mm holes were made in the plastic frame .

The steel wire is glued in these holes.

0.3 mm brass tubes were glued at the end of the frame.

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[James H]

Amazing work!

 

I'd still be real wary of climbing into a plane that looks like it has missing struts. Your work is simply amazing....very inspirational.

[JeroenPeters]

Wow Bertl.. 

those props look like they are real wood.

Hope you'll give us a detailed account of how you achieved this.

Just amazing stuff.

Where did you get the propellor hub from???

 

HTH

 

Cheers,

Jeroen

[Jamo]

Hi Bertl

Have you seen this photos? Found them on Dave Watt's website

http://www.fokkerdvii.com

 

 

[DougN]

Bertl!  Please post some more progress!

 

Doug

[James H]

Hi Bertl

Have you seen this photos? Found them on Dave Watt's website

http://www.fokkerdvii.com

 

 

James, this link looks dead? Have you any info?

[Grant]

Bertl, I've just caught up on your Driedecker and am utterly floored by what you're doing. I saw the initial stages and thought you couldn't top what I'd already seen but, man, you've gone way beyond being just modeller ...

 

The propeller looks amazing - completely indistinguishable from real wood - I've only seen this technique once before and on both occasions (yours included) the result has been stunning.

 

I can't wait to see what you've been up to since.

[Dave J]

Just awesome!

[Jamo]

James, this link looks dead? Have you any info?

Looks like the website (which was very basic) has closed since I posted the link. I did save down the photos which I linked to above. Not sure what the protocol is for re-posting someone else's images, but here they are. They are familiar shots but very large images

 

 

 

 

[Umlaufmotor]

Hello all, many thanks for the compliments.
 

@ Jeroen
I use the thin blade of a Resin saw to separate the hub from the propeller.

 

@ Jamo,
many many thanks for these pictures. I had it, but not in this fantastic resolution.
 

@ Grant
This Pencil method is well suited to copy the wood grain of an original propeller from a original image.............. but there is no wood, no comparison with the excellent work of Douglas Craner.

@ DaveJ
Thank you very much.

@ DougN
Sorry, there is no new update .............. the Fokker triplane just make a break.
I'm currently working on a master model of the tank for the WNW Albatros DV and D.Va.
This tank is made for an us all known aftermarket-dealer.
I'm almost done with it ........

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[Ssasho0]

  This gas tank looks awesome and I can't wait to see it painted.

I was wondering why this gas tank looks so much like WnW Albie gas tank and then I read your comment about it. So we can expect an aftermarket one pretty soon It will be nice addition for us, lazies, that are erm...too lazy to detail it ourselves! Not that I can achieve this type of detail thou, but thats what aftermarket is for (does this sentence sounds right or my English fails me?)

Best regards,

Sasho

[Jamme]

Hello Bertl.

Fantastic job on this thank, as usual, should I say.

Congrats,

Jamme

[Jamo]

Hi Bertl

I recognise that fuel tank, but yours is 1/32 scale! Looks just like the real thing which is my best complement. Excellent work! I hope the resin moulding will do it justice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to full album:

http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/Jamo_kiwi/library/Mercedes%20DIIIa%20engine%20with%20jacketed%20inlet%20manifold?sort=6&page=1

 

I plan to give the TVAL Albatros D.II the full walk-around photo treatment sometime soon.

Cheers

James

[Umlaufmotor]

Hello everyone, thank you for your kind comments.

@Jamo,

many thanks for the pictures, I still can discover some new fact on that pictures.
 

Here you can see a few pictures from the 1/32 WNW Albatros tank.

The thing is now completed.

 

The steel fixing band is also in place................that was a grazy work

 

 

The two soldered plates for "Benzin" and "ZAK-Abnahmestempel" are also visible.

 

 

The lower backside part of the tank can be seen from the pilots seat, therefore, the backside from the fueltank also had to be detailed.

 

 

Servus

Bertl

[GUY5Y]

I don't know whether to laugh or cry. Beautiful.