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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

1/32 Revell RF-4C 14th TRS


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I spent a little bit of time with VMFP-3 at El Toro.   I can tell you that the area you've been detailing gets very sooty.   Some black washes will hide your CA blobs, or you can try black and dark gray pigments, too.

 

Gaz

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10 hours ago, GazzaS said:

I spent a little bit of time with VMFP-3 at El Toro.   I can tell you that the area you've been detailing gets very sooty.   Some black washes will hide your CA blobs, or you can try black and dark gray pigments, too.

 

Gaz

We are of the same mind here after my redux of the tail....Just finished the black gloss coat.  I will be working some of the NMF today and have already made the black wash.  I also bought some of the alclad jet exhaust.  Also found some MM Jet exhaust and graphite metallic in my collection.   I am going to try some coats on the test plane.  I am finding NMF is its own thing.....

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3 hours ago, SapperSix said:

We are of the same mind here after my redux of the tail....Just finished the black gloss coat.  I will be working some of the NMF today and have already made the black wash.  I also bought some of the alclad jet exhaust.  Also found some MM Jet exhaust and graphite metallic in my collection.   I am going to try some coats on the test plane.  I am finding NMF is its own thing.....

Always glad to help.  Some day you should consider foil:stirthepot:  Real NMF without having to ask:  "does it really look like metal?:wacko:

 

Gaz

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On ‎5‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 1:10 AM, GazzaS said:

I spent a little bit of time with VMFP-3 at El Toro.   I can tell you that the area you've been detailing gets very sooty.   Some black washes will hide your CA blobs, or you can try black and dark gray pigments, too.

 

Gaz

When were you at El Toro, Gaz?

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11 hours ago, smitty44 said:

When were you at El Toro, Gaz?

Only for a short time, from November 84-February 85 while I was waiting for my school seat to open up at NAS Memphis.

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Adding the panel lines to the tail.  This is such a rivet counter moment.  The more I learn and observe on this tail section, the more I realize it needs to be 100% rebuilt.  I am going to do what I can without going backwards.  I am short panel lines per section.....but that is just another issue with the lack and incorrect detail in this section of the plane.  I learned a lot about creating consistent cuts and large amounts of patience. 

 

IMG-1230.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

The exhaust and the cans have been a learning curve for me.  I can not emphasize enough how much I have learned while making this model.  My tool and product purchases have also been undergoing a considerable increase.  All equaling a joy for the hobby as never before.  I do want very much to make clear that I appreciate the many people, all over the world, that have have offered advice and knowledge both publicly and through PM's. 

Below is an example of the general reference I have been using for inside exhaust coloring.  My book from Reid Air, The Modern Phantom Guide, has been providing and enormous amount of detail. 

DSC03815.jpg

Below is the Phantom GT Resin kit that I have spent the last week detailing, messing up, starting over and having another go. 

IMG-E1260.jpg

In the references the green goes from a darker green to lighter as the distance from the burner increases.  This picture tries to capture that variation.  It was lots of patience during the dry brush process.

IMG-E1261.jpg 

The detail in this resin product is very well done.

IMG-E1264.jpg

A light black/green wash will fill in the secondary air holes.  I did it a small section with black only and the contrast didn't appeal to the eye.  A bit of dry brushing to the cans and some pastels will finalize this effort. 

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Does anyone have a few good pictures of the sooty, black tail of a Phantom?  I seem unable to find a good reference to replicate.  I want to blacken her tail feathers as accurately as possible....Any help is much appreciated. 

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On 5/5/2019 at 5:51 AM, harv said:

I have the Tamiya and its a bit different. The front ones, that you are working on were quite good. The back ones, no. It looks like they are missing from yours also. This is what I did

v6x0HNL.jpg

fBk576x.jpg

lots of little punched disc and then sanded back. Could work for you using larger discs and small divit in the midle. Just an idea. BTW, this build rocks ~......harv

Harv, where did you get that punch set? 

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4 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

f-4c_08_of_19.jpg

Martin, I really appreciate the pictures.  There is a lot of nuance in there that I am going to use.  The Revell has neither the right rivets nor does it have the reinforcement strips at the panel joints.  While I see that many reference pictures dont have the reinforcement strips I think it will add some character.  So thin plastic stock has been ordered along with a good punch set up....

From other references I have found, the color has not looked as titanium as it does in the above picture.  Although, my reading clearly states is is a titanium metal aft.

 

I had thought about going with the below coloring and weathering to which I found pictures at some forgotten location.  In comparison, it seems pretty drastic to what little I have been able to find.  Most aft sections I have found appear to be super clean museum pieces.  20799509_1726958960933555_3999506852537126592_n.jpg.747a9d17225dbb195f31ac4aee4fdf78.jpg

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You are most welcome Frank, titanium alloy looks almost like regular steel alloy when new, it's surface changes dramatically with time. Punch set is a great tool, however I would use a beading tool. More suitable due its consistency and versatility. Also if I may suggest, the reinforcement stripes can be easily scribed, instead of applying thick stripes of plastic.

s-l1600.jpg

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Ordered the new beading tool a few days ago.  As I figured I would need a few plans of attack.  And with Gaz, and now you, saying they are worth the purchase I feel good about the move. 

 

595199052_Beadingtool.JPG.06d5734c9cc07a5e50fc23ef614a2bbe.JPG

As for the reinforcement strips, I happen to be scribing the main seem as it had grown shallow from other sanding.  So if I had to scribe the actual seem, the reinforcement ones might as well get done as well.  And hell, might as well do the rivets correctly.  During my shade testing and color experimentation I noticed when I squeeze the Phantom ever so, the previously filled fuselage half seem came apart (Noted by the black penciled circle in the below photo).  So this area is going to get a reset and fixed when all my assets are in place.

Inked-IMG-1312-MOD-LI.jpg

 

I do very much appreciate your input and suggestions.  Please mention any item you see that might need to be corrected or enhanced.  I am here to learn.  Input from knowledgeable people such as yourself is how I will get better and more accurate.  Thank you. 

 

 

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Progress has been slow but productive.  I finally figured out a path to the weathering for the war weary tail.  Using Oils (burnt sienna, burnt umber, cadmium red, ivory black) a black and red brown  wash, and Tamiya smoke.

I re drilled the rivets and plugged them with a small piece of lead as noted in prior postings.  After I sealed the base, post initial weathering, I went back with a bead tool to shape the lead plug.  While I am sure there is a better way to do this, my initial push in to this lead down this path.  In the end the initial shaping with the bead tool doesn't look too bad.   My only complaint would be that the newly created rivet looks a little big compared to the washer.   This picture shows the first lead plugs being shaped compared to the others that have yet to be shaped.  Once shaped it will expose the lead color of the rivet making it easier to detail after a little clean up.

IMG-1346.jpg

Right side complete prior to detail and clean up.

IMG-1345.jpg

left side complete prior to detail and clean up.

IMG-1353.jpg

There is much still to do here.  lots of clean up and detail. The aft section, past the tail hook, needs to be done up with rivets.  Maybe I can figure a way to make the rivet smaller compared to the washer.  In the end it will be blended with pastels to make sure its blended and given a much more flat look. 

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