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Posted

A couple of days ago I was weathering my Seiran using AK pencils and Flory washes and pastels. When I was done I put the model away.

3 days later I got the model out to continue and what had been an effective darker wash turned white. Have any of you experienced this and if so how did you fix it?

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The underside was not affected.

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  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks again fellas.

I am experimenting with my AK weathering pencil set. The pencil #10008 Dark green, is a pretty good match for IJN green #2. I am also using pencil # 10003 Smoke.

If it doesn't go well I can wash it off. Here are some shots in different light. Some pencil lines are straight ATM but I plan to blur them.

I am very interested to hear what you think.

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Posted

Bingo bango it's another hat! (You blokes wouldn't believe how many Akubras I own)

Back to getting rid of those strange light lines, here it is now. Seeing as I have been using these new AK pencils I figure I should take photos in case other people are thinking of purchasing them. I drew oil drips. Unsure if I am 100% sold on them....

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Different light.

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Posted

I am with the others. Even if it was an unwanted effect, it looked good, but maybe for the radiator exhaust on the belly, which should have been darker.

Hubert

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  • Thanks 1
Posted

I have used the AK pencils lately on my RSO project for weathering and didn't run into your issues, but I didn't use another product as a wash. I don't know, if you blended the pencils in with water (it's almost usable like a wash, but with different Colours, if desired) or you used them with a dampened tip.

The chalking might be an effect produced by the drying wash leaving some dried out pigments from the pencils. If that's the case you have to seal every step separately. 

Was there a different treatment or process at the lower side of the plane?

What I notice on all your pictures, is a bit too much grain in the last layer of paint/varnish. I suspect the varnish, because it's noticeable in different Colours. That hinders a smooth weathering job, equal which media is used.

Anyway, I think, the effect looks good in the end, even it is unwanted, like Hubert mentioned. Light washes are often overlooked on certain types of planes. On Japanese like yours, the emulate abrasion on the corners of panels and on others you ca use the effect for depicting a plane in icy conditions.

Cheers Rob

Here is a picture from my first go with the AK pencils and a damp brush to blend. For the dark grey, I used only light pencils in different grey, green and rust shades.

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  • Thanks 2
Posted
4 hours ago, HubertB said:

I am with the others. Even if it was an unwanted effect, it looked good, but maybe for the radiator exhaust on the belly, which should have been darker.

Hubert

Hi mate. Thanks. I've not finished it as yet. I agree about the underside. On the spitfire the large oil streak is AK pencil. I will use it again.

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Posted
19 minutes ago, DocRob said:

I have used the AK pencils lately on my RSO project for weathering and didn't run into your issues, but I didn't use another product as a wash. I don't know, if you blended the pencils in with water (it's almost usable like a wash, but with different Colours, if desired) or you used them with a dampened tip.

The chalking might be an effect produced by the drying wash leaving some dried out pigments from the pencils. If that's the case you have to seal every step separately. 

Was there a different treatment or process at the lower side of the plane?

What I notice on all your pictures, is a bit too much grain in the last layer of paint/varnish. I suspect the varnish, because it's noticeable in different Colours. That hinders a smooth weathering job, equal which media is used.

Anyway, I think, the effect looks good in the end, even it is unwanted, like Hubert mentioned. Light washes are often overlooked on certain types of planes. On Japanese like yours, the emulate abrasion on the corners of panels and on others you ca use the effect for depicting a plane in icy conditions.

Cheers Rob

Here is a picture from my first go with the AK pencils and a damp brush to blend. For the dark grey, I used only light pencils in different grey, green and rust shades.

P1150168.thumb.JPG.964a3ddde3749ed067aa179571f9bf61.JPG

Hi Rob.

The door looks great.

I plan on using micro mesh to smoothe it down tomorrow. 

Inthink you are correct about the chalkie lok. I remember now that Flory washes are made with clay.

I used a light wash on a little spitfire 2 weeks ago. See what you think.

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  • Like 2
Posted

Little Spittie looks good, but I would've had a hard time to choose the wash. I might have used a brownish-grey one for both sides of the underside as I don't like using different wash Colours at one side of a kit. the capillary nature of the wash makes it hard to control the effect on the Colour borders.

What I saw on the Spit as well as the Seiran is a pretty rough last coat, which makes subtle weathering very hard. Instead of micromeshing, you should play with your airbrush regarding pressure and/or thinning. 

I used different wash Colours only once on my TA-152 build, where I tried to emulate the icy conditions the bird might have been in, in early 45 and found the problem of bordering fuselage Colours not to easy to solve. I even considered to give the canopy a frosted look, but chickened out, because of the doom potential.

Cheers Rob

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  • Thanks 1
Posted

Your model looks great. 

Sadly the little spitfire was a rush job for a kids birthday. I had to have it on the last day. This isn't an excuse. I always rub them down. 

I should move this to my shelf of doom thread now. I worked on 3 models today. :D

Can a moderator move this to my Shelf of doom. I think I learned exactly what I needed today. 

Thanks guys. Legends all. :thumbsup2::thumbsup2:

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