Decal Solutions....

[Dave J]

Ok... I have been out of the Decal Solutions scene for a while now as I mostly use paint masks these days...

 

But after trying to use Mirco Sol on these Hasegawa decals out of the 109F kit, they don't Sol/Suck or whatever you call it!

 

So what is everyone using these days?

[rkranias]

For decals behaving badly I had great success with Mr. Mark Softer.

 

Mr. Mark Softer has tamed my Tamiya and Hasegawa decals.  Albeit, they require multiple applications.

 

Caution to remove excess Softer after application by drawing excess with corner of papertowel.  Sometimes if Mr. Softer pools then dries there will be a spot on surface.

 

Mr. Softer conformed my IP decal for my Jug Build.  About 6 applications needed to get IP decal to settle into the dials.  Add a drop of gloss in the dials and the results were very good.

 

Other decals such as Cartograph, MicroScale, Kits World and AMLC decals have behaved well for me with Solvaset.  Me thinks Mr. Softer may be too harsh on these.  As you know, its all about surface prep.

 

 

Good luck...

[rkranias]

Also, as great as masks are, they have their limits and stencils, data placards etc are still out of bounds. Though I did just order a set of Eduard PE stencil masks for the 1/32 Hornet. They include things like "NO STEP" warnings that should come in useful across all manner of aircraft, and since they're metal they can be used again and again and again!

what is the part number?

[JeroenPeters]

Micro Sol and Set are still the best thing in town.

That.. and a lot of patience. I'm decalling my Ninak now. I'm taking the whole evening for just the rudder, but the result is worth it.

It takes up to an hour for the decal to wrinkle to the max. Then another hour for it to set.

 

Patience. That's it.

Humbrol and all other brands I have don't give the same results. No hairdryer or Q-tips. You might ruin the decal.

 

Well.. this is just my experience.

[Mikester]

Ok... I have been out of the Decal Solutions scene for a while now as I mostly use paint masks these days...

 

But after trying to use Mirco Sol on these Hasegawa decals out of the 109F kit, they don't Sol/Suck or whatever you call it!

 

So what is everyone using these days?

 

Dave,

 

I've found that Hasegawa decals behave a lot better if you soak them in hot water, Micro-sol has always worked OK on them for me.

[Dave J]

I've found using Hasegawa decals works a lot better if you trash them and use aftermarket...

 

Same with Tamiya!

[Jamme]

I use Micro Sol and Set mostly.

I also use diluted methanol (80%+20% water) when it's a 'difficult' decal and use an Hairdryer.

Cheers,

Jamme

[seiran01]

I've been using MicroSol almost exclusively for a few years now and have yet to come across decals from a mainstream manufacturer where the Sol didnt do it's job. Yes Dave, even on WNW kit decals where it says to use none

For the rare time I need a bit of extra help over a varies surface area, I'll drop some Solvaset on it

[rkranias]

I've been using MicroSol almost exclusively for a few years now and have yet to come across decals from a mainstream manufacturer where the Sol didnt do it's job. Yes Dave, even on WNW kit decals where it says to use none

For the rare time I need a bit of extra help over a varies surface area, I'll drop some Solvaset on it

Hey Kiwi!

 

Nice to see you in the neighborhood!

[Mikester]

Same with Tamiya!

 

The only problem I ever had with Hasegawa was the white was really an "off-white", their newer sheets are much better.  Other than that they always went down with no problem, same with Tamiya, just have to alter your techniques a little.  Now some of the sheets printed by Microscale (for Eagle Editions) I found to be complete crap and impervious to everything.