GazzaS
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Posts posted by GazzaS
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4 hours ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
Holy Smoke - awesome paint work and all in one massive day at the bench to boot!
Keep 'em comin
Peter
Thank you, Peter. Yep... big lay day it was. Watching football now... so another lazy day happnin.
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7 hours ago, DocRob said:
Wow, very cool paintjob and it even camoes the false shapes of the kit
. Gutsy call to spray the walk lines with masks, but it payed in the end. She will look great and will make you forget all the issues, this subpar kit has.
After all, it's somehow good to see, that not all the kits out there are perfect. Being in my third Tamiya build in a row, I have the feeling, that a kit which needs a bit more of extra work, should be next. The most fun generating project overall in the last years was the Mikro Mir Fokker D.VIII, where I could be very creative about finding solutions for the kits weaknesses.Cheers Rob
Thank you, Rob. The walk lines aren't exactly perfect. But they'll do from a couple feet away. It might be one of those techniques that has to be done last.
The shape still bugs me. Bugs me enough to keep thinking on how I might fix the problems on the Revell G10. If scribing wasn't required, the simple answer would be putty. I have filled 109 panel lines before. And the major problem with that is what happens to the details you don't want to fill. Invariably they suffer, and rescribing fuel hatches and handholds... is tough. They never look right for me.
If the ZM 109 comes out before I get to it... I might have to give the Revell away.
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Excellent stuff, Craig!
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Fantastic work, Mark! Love that engine.
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That's a very nice looking first effort, Peter. The 'old school' effort yielded first class results in your hands.
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*SAAB* *SAAB* ... so expensive!😪
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Hello, friends,
I big day of masking and painting.
After painting the markings, I sealed all of the markings with tape or liquid mask.
Then painted lower wings and the entire fuselage RLM 76
Then added the RLM 75 in the appropriate areas, then used blutack blobs to hold the sawtooth masks over the wings.
Than added the RLM 74, RLM 02 mottles, and the RLM 04 chin identification.
Happy modelling!
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Pictures first:
And you can read the simple 'how to' here:
I have no affiliation with Scale Modellers Supply. But their paints are growing on me. I recommend using their thinners as Mr. Color Self-levelling doesn't work the best... believe me, I tried. If you are in Australia and can get to Supa Cheap Auto you can buy their Premium Acrylic Thinner which works very well.
You can't mix SMS with anything other than SMS... I tried that too.
Happy modelling!
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HI all... At the last model show I bought a 1991 molds Klingon Battlecruiser and I want to rig it with lights. I'm looking at powering about 14-20 lights of either 3mm or 5mm size.
I want to take it to next year's show, so it needs to have enough power to run 3 days straight on batteries. Because once you give them your kit, you can't touch it until after the judging. And... tbh, it would look cool on display with the lights on at home without having to put new batteries in it every day.
Anyway... I don't know anything about it. I know I'll need resistors of some sort, but I've read you can't do that until you know your power source. So if anyone could recommend a battery holder and a voltage that will go with it... I'd be grateful. I don't know whether 3 D-cells would last longer than 9 AA's... But I can make a pretty thick base in which to store the battery holder.
Thanks for your thoughts and recommendations.
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1 hour ago, Artful69 said:
Score!!!
Dragon had the market cornered for 1/35 scale until they started with those crappy DS track things ... I've found that some later issue kits will come with both - almost as if Dragon realised their mistake and started adding the Magic Tracks back in ...
They cottoned onto the link and length idea a bit to late also - with these new "Neo Smart Kit" issues... it's almost as if the market has passed them by now.
I have that kit in the stash - awesome!
Rog
They definitely aren't putting the effort into the market like others. It has allowed lessor makers like Border to getting a lot of business.
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Looks great so far, Phil! I'm sure it won't be too difficult for you. Weathering with Schurzen is a bit tricky.
I only saw the first photo (that I know of) with that add-on roof armor only a year ago. And here it is on a kit already.
One trend I have noticed this year... gray-painted 'replacement' barrels on lots of models.
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Reason # 2 to belong to a model club: Many people would rather sell them cheap for quick cash than have to mess with EBay, the Post Office, and so on. I got this Dragon Smart Kit with Magic Tracks for under a third of it's retail price.
It also comes with the F2 barrel and muzzle brake, should I want to go that way. Scored it yesterday.
Of course... Reason #1 is camaraderie with people who share the same interests.
Sadly... I missed the raffle prize by one ticket.
The guy that won the raffle also scored the 1/200 scale Mikasa by Hobbyboss for less than 1/2 price with extras like an Artwox wooden deck and Master Barrels.
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Beautifully done, Kai! Love the detail and main fuselage painting and weathering. Top result!
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9 minutes ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
I completely agree - just a shame you had to go through correcting what the manufacturer then should have done.
Keep 'em comin
Peter
The real shame is the stuff I can't correct without major structural changes. It's kind of cool to fix things. But it really gets my goat when it's just too big to mess with.
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30 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Great paintwork Gary with the homemade masks!
The job with the walkways stripes comes close to Marks rivets on his Ferrari!
Thank you, Kai.
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That is some stunning work, Rob! Though I'm not much into bikes, I prefer them without fairings and other crotch-rocket related stuff. Great job on those rim decals.
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7 hours ago, Peterpools said:
I wonder if the manufacturer work from as accurate plans that was available as compared to taking their measurements from an actual aircraft? One other thought is the molding process at the time the kit was designed and the molds made, the technology wasn't there to replicate all the shapes and curves and compromises made?
Thank you, Peter. I have considered the same thing. But older kits by other companies like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujimi, and even UM all got it right. It just boils down to a lack of research. I mean... Germany has plenty of 109's in museums. And there are plenty of line drawings out there, I'm sure. Really...it's just a poor kit.
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Hello everyone!
Work continues... despite finding yet another shape error.
I primed and fixed a few small spots... and then sanded the primer coat smooth. Then I made the masks with the Silhouette program.
I always make at least one extra of each marking.
Earlier I wrote of another shape issue... here is what I am taking about. Let me draw your attention to the shadow immediately above the long red line between two shorter red lines.
I believe that in this area the kit maker has prematurely rounded the bottom of the fuselage towards the keel line. Note how the shadow starts narrow behind the trailing edge of the wing and then widens as it reaches the cross before narrowing again towards the tail wheel. I found this on an old Hasegawa 1/48 kit of a G-10 which shortly thereafter found it's way into the bin.
I had three choices regarding the no-walk lines. I could either mask them before and paint red over white. Or I could mask them later and struggle to cover RLM colors with red... Or I could use the kit decals. Though it was hell to get all of the tiny masks into place and in line...I'm glad I did it this way. The decal never turns our the way I like.
I 'browned' the red by adding a little yellow and blue to the red paint.
Speaking of paint... It's all MRP so far. White primer. US Navy White under the markings. And then Richthofen's Red with a hint of Swedish Yellow and International blue.
The underside:
You can see on this ventral view the over-rounding of the lower rear fuselage.
anyway...
still waiting for my deck chair parts...
Catcha later!
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That looks lovely, Mark!
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Anything like Olive Drab. It should look brown when it's next to green.
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17 minutes ago, JohnB said:
Unfortunately no Gaz. It was re-barreled at some point.
Still, a very nice piece!
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2 hours ago, JohnB said:
Here's my Luger. Remember to click on the pics for best resolution.
Do all the serials match... incl. the magazine?
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7 minutes ago, JohnB said:
Thanks Gaz. More coming. I've read Blood Red Snow and yes, it's a good read. Have you read Seven Days In January? Another good one.
No, I haven't read that one, yet... I'll look it up.
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LED Klingon Battlecruiser planned... need some lighting advice.
in Modelling Discussion
Posted
Thanks for the quick response, guys. I'm really looking more towards a cheaper DIY solution from parts I can get locally. I have a soldering iron yet need soldering practice. I'd like to build my skill set without spending too much.