GazzaS
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Posts posted by GazzaS
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Pictures first:
And you can read the simple 'how to' here:
I have no affiliation with Scale Modellers Supply. But their paints are growing on me. I recommend using their thinners as Mr. Color Self-levelling doesn't work the best... believe me, I tried. If you are in Australia and can get to Supa Cheap Auto you can buy their Premium Acrylic Thinner which works very well.
You can't mix SMS with anything other than SMS... I tried that too.
Happy modelling!
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HI all... At the last model show I bought a 1991 molds Klingon Battlecruiser and I want to rig it with lights. I'm looking at powering about 14-20 lights of either 3mm or 5mm size.
I want to take it to next year's show, so it needs to have enough power to run 3 days straight on batteries. Because once you give them your kit, you can't touch it until after the judging. And... tbh, it would look cool on display with the lights on at home without having to put new batteries in it every day.
Anyway... I don't know anything about it. I know I'll need resistors of some sort, but I've read you can't do that until you know your power source. So if anyone could recommend a battery holder and a voltage that will go with it... I'd be grateful. I don't know whether 3 D-cells would last longer than 9 AA's... But I can make a pretty thick base in which to store the battery holder.
Thanks for your thoughts and recommendations.
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1 hour ago, Artful69 said:
Score!!!
Dragon had the market cornered for 1/35 scale until they started with those crappy DS track things ... I've found that some later issue kits will come with both - almost as if Dragon realised their mistake and started adding the Magic Tracks back in ...
They cottoned onto the link and length idea a bit to late also - with these new "Neo Smart Kit" issues... it's almost as if the market has passed them by now.
I have that kit in the stash - awesome!
Rog
They definitely aren't putting the effort into the market like others. It has allowed lessor makers like Border to getting a lot of business.
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Looks great so far, Phil! I'm sure it won't be too difficult for you. Weathering with Schurzen is a bit tricky.
I only saw the first photo (that I know of) with that add-on roof armor only a year ago. And here it is on a kit already.
One trend I have noticed this year... gray-painted 'replacement' barrels on lots of models.
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Reason # 2 to belong to a model club: Many people would rather sell them cheap for quick cash than have to mess with EBay, the Post Office, and so on. I got this Dragon Smart Kit with Magic Tracks for under a third of it's retail price.
It also comes with the F2 barrel and muzzle brake, should I want to go that way. Scored it yesterday.
Of course... Reason #1 is camaraderie with people who share the same interests.
Sadly... I missed the raffle prize by one ticket.
The guy that won the raffle also scored the 1/200 scale Mikasa by Hobbyboss for less than 1/2 price with extras like an Artwox wooden deck and Master Barrels.
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Beautifully done, Kai! Love the detail and main fuselage painting and weathering. Top result!
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9 minutes ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
I completely agree - just a shame you had to go through correcting what the manufacturer then should have done.
Keep 'em comin
Peter
The real shame is the stuff I can't correct without major structural changes. It's kind of cool to fix things. But it really gets my goat when it's just too big to mess with.
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30 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Great paintwork Gary with the homemade masks!
The job with the walkways stripes comes close to Marks rivets on his Ferrari!
Thank you, Kai.
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That is some stunning work, Rob! Though I'm not much into bikes, I prefer them without fairings and other crotch-rocket related stuff. Great job on those rim decals.
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7 hours ago, Peterpools said:
I wonder if the manufacturer work from as accurate plans that was available as compared to taking their measurements from an actual aircraft? One other thought is the molding process at the time the kit was designed and the molds made, the technology wasn't there to replicate all the shapes and curves and compromises made?
Thank you, Peter. I have considered the same thing. But older kits by other companies like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujimi, and even UM all got it right. It just boils down to a lack of research. I mean... Germany has plenty of 109's in museums. And there are plenty of line drawings out there, I'm sure. Really...it's just a poor kit.
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Hello everyone!
Work continues... despite finding yet another shape error.
I primed and fixed a few small spots... and then sanded the primer coat smooth. Then I made the masks with the Silhouette program.
I always make at least one extra of each marking.
Earlier I wrote of another shape issue... here is what I am taking about. Let me draw your attention to the shadow immediately above the long red line between two shorter red lines.
I believe that in this area the kit maker has prematurely rounded the bottom of the fuselage towards the keel line. Note how the shadow starts narrow behind the trailing edge of the wing and then widens as it reaches the cross before narrowing again towards the tail wheel. I found this on an old Hasegawa 1/48 kit of a G-10 which shortly thereafter found it's way into the bin.
I had three choices regarding the no-walk lines. I could either mask them before and paint red over white. Or I could mask them later and struggle to cover RLM colors with red... Or I could use the kit decals. Though it was hell to get all of the tiny masks into place and in line...I'm glad I did it this way. The decal never turns our the way I like.
I 'browned' the red by adding a little yellow and blue to the red paint.
Speaking of paint... It's all MRP so far. White primer. US Navy White under the markings. And then Richthofen's Red with a hint of Swedish Yellow and International blue.
The underside:
You can see on this ventral view the over-rounding of the lower rear fuselage.
anyway...
still waiting for my deck chair parts...
Catcha later!
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That looks lovely, Mark!
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Anything like Olive Drab. It should look brown when it's next to green.
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17 minutes ago, JohnB said:
Unfortunately no Gaz. It was re-barreled at some point.
Still, a very nice piece!
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2 hours ago, JohnB said:
Here's my Luger. Remember to click on the pics for best resolution.
Do all the serials match... incl. the magazine?
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7 minutes ago, JohnB said:
Thanks Gaz. More coming. I've read Blood Red Snow and yes, it's a good read. Have you read Seven Days In January? Another good one.
No, I haven't read that one, yet... I'll look it up.
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11 hours ago, Wumm said:
Say that phrase very carefully when you first meet people...
As for the Bf-109 G canopy...
S
Hahah.... I'd probably never, ever say it to anybody IRL. I work with people who have no interest in 109's... or anything further in the past than their last beer or wager made on sport or horses.
Thank you for those excellent illustrations and detailed explanations. All very new stuff to me.
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That's very nice John. I'd love to see more. I'm reading "Blood Red Snow" right now. The author was a machine gunner on the Eastern Front using the MG 42. Great book if you ever want one to read.
Please show more.
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16 hours ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
Awesome progress and little each night adds up to a mountain of completed work over time. Love the parachute and you are so right, the standing figure adds so much to scale. Tge rocket launchers and drop tanks look perfect and all the work paid off. I never heard of using clear nail polish but if it survives the abuse of woman wearing it and not chipping off, it has to be strong. I did a quick google search and a good percentage of clear nail polish:
"Basic clear nail polish can be made from nitrocellulose dissolved in butyl acetate or ethyl acetate. The nitrocellulose forms a shiny film as the acetate solvent evaporates."
I not sure how this works with clear parts but after your results, well worth testing.
Photography is a a passion of mine and there is a huge difference between macro and closeup work. Macro work from my understanding on a cell phone isn't macro work at all but works by digital manipulation and zoom lenses that claim to also do macro, unfortunately don't. A true macro lens allows the small object to be reproduced on the camera sensor up to 1:1 (full size) and close up work just just that, allows you move closer to the subject and maintain focus but not 1:1 magnification. In either case, both reduce the working Depth of Field; what is in focus and what isn't. For the wing tip lights, macro would be perfect as a shallow depth of field is all that is needed plus the wing tip light would fill the frame. For model photography I very rarely use my Micro Nikkor lens (Nikon always has called their macro lenses micro - I have no idea why) just for the depth of field issues. I don't want to get to technical but the easiest way to reduce the depth of field issue for model photography is shooting at the smallest F apertures (F22, etc). if you're into photography, focus stacking is the answer but completely not necessary - just way too much work. Sorry for the long winded explanation.
Keep 'em comin
Peter
Thank you, Peter!
I don't mind the long explanation. I just wish I had known about cameras when I was younger... In my family they just appeared at holidays or birthdays and disappeared soon after.
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18 hours ago, DocRob said:
Vielen Dank mein Herr, your detail work looks splendid. I use Revell contacta clear for clear parts, which seems to be similar to white glue for wood. Since last week, I feared, that the bond could be not strong enough, but then I had the canopy fogging issue with my KI-61 (not caused by the glue) and I was not able to remove it, without using brutal force.
For the position lights, I use the same technique, but for a newer looking plane use a silver coat on the backside of the clear part.Cheers Rob
Thank you, Rob! I have "canopy glue" which seems like an extra tacky white glue. But it dries to a rubbery texture which doesn't help if you are sanding. I often use it for PE as it's extra tackiness is a desirable trait when dealing with the stuff.I wish I had painted the insides of the position lights silver. I have done it before, but thought it wouldn't matter. Guess I'll do it next time.
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20 hours ago, Wumm said:
You could cover the notches with strip styrene on the inside of the canopy, as the bottom horizontal bezels were hollow inside...
I have a few photos to explain the Bf109 G canopy system, just checking as I didn't want to dump a lot of info without prior consent.
S
Steve,
I am an infomaniac. I would love to see whatever you can share about the 109's canopy system.
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Very impressive looking work, Rob!
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4 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Great detail work Gary! Especially the parachute is a real highlight and well done.
Thanks also for the fotos of the rocket-launchers. They look awesome!I‘ve found 3 fotos and a film on YouTube in which you can see how the canopy is hinged.
And here is the link to the video:
HTH
and keep up with the excellent work!
Kai
BTW: The german sentences are fully correct…
Thank you, Kai!
It seems the hinges are hidden. I'm not sure if that is a bonus or not as I have tiny square notches to fill in the canopy framing. The kit hinges aren't hidden, unfortunately. Another detail I might add are the small lights inside the windscreen on both sides.
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If I only had the slightest interest in whirlybirds.
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Gottfreid Weiroster Bf 109G6 R6 Revell 1/32
in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
Posted
Hello, friends,
I big day of masking and painting.
After painting the markings, I sealed all of the markings with tape or liquid mask.
Then painted lower wings and the entire fuselage RLM 76
Then added the RLM 75 in the appropriate areas, then used blutack blobs to hold the sawtooth masks over the wings.
Than added the RLM 74, RLM 02 mottles, and the RLM 04 chin identification.
Happy modelling!