GazzaS
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Posts posted by GazzaS
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Now, it looks totally awesome! Beautiful paintwork. Getting excited now!
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25 minutes ago, The Dude said:
If I am not mistaken that is the OLD revell mold from way back when (mid 1980's). I wouldn't touch it unless you want a basic slate for a super scratch build/P/E resin project. The new revell mold is much better as is the new Italeri one but that is a GR4. HTH
Thank you for the advice! I'll give it a miss.
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6 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Great looking Herr Weiroster (mit Ritterkreuz!) Gary.
I‘m going to buy the one missing oil-color and try them on my next figure.
Thanks also for the tipp with the painting of uniform details. Very helpful!
6 hours ago, KevinM said:Liking it Gazz coming along Nicely!
Thank you!
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On 7/18/2021 at 8:12 AM, KevinM said:
I appreciate all the Nice comments like I said the crate kind of cried for some grime not great but acceptable ATTM.
I'm in agreement. Planes just don;t get too grimy.
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Guys,
I don't do a lot of 1/32 jets. Mainly because the only ones that interest me are the 100-series (most represented sadly by Trumpeter)(already built the Italeri F-104) , MiG 15 (seen all the horror stories...Trumpeter again!) and one other that I won't mention until a later date. A Panavia Tornado... one is made by Revell has come up in Australia on EBay. So... is it any good, or another kit calling for a ton of AM and filler?
There's a little time left on the auction. So, if you know, lemme know.
Thanks for your thoughts!
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After about 6 attempts per eye, they are as finished as they will be. I discovered that while the right eye is nicely formed the left eye is more like a squint. But you won't see much since the face is shiny after being sprayed with SMS super clear.
You'll notice that I started with the uniform.
I got the best tip a while ago about painting uniform details like piping and belts and other things. The tip is to paint the detail first and then paint around and up to it. In this way you end up with figures whose uniforms aren't dominated by piping, belts, and other stuff.
I had some black acrylic paint left on the pallet so I decided to fill in some shadows now.
Happy modelling!
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Wow, that is excellent!
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Your painting looks ultra-smooth, Kai! Looking forward to that paint coming off! I usually pull mine about half an hour after I spray... I have no patience!
Hurry up!!
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Ooh! Excellent, John!
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9 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Like Rob said the face looks absolutely convincing.
Interesting to read that there are eyeball decals available. Curious how they will work!
I use special artist pens with .03 mm and 0,05 mm diameter for the eyeball:
And it works really nice:
Pappy Boyington:
H.-U. Rudel:
and finally Guy Gibson:
Thank you Kai! Yes... I see those pens do a very fine job. I will use acrylic paint. The reason for this is the ability to fix your mistakes. Whenever I paint with acrylics... I keep a cup of water with a soft paintbrush in it. If things go awry... out comes the water and I remove the paint pronto. With eyes, less is more... So I'll use a grey color. But before I can attempt the eyes, I will seal the face to avoid bleed.
Nobody wants Marty Feldman eyes:
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15 hours ago, DocRob said:
I like the shades of the face Gaz, looks convincing to me. The good thing with the oils, is you can adjust later, if it doesn't fit the uniform.
Yesterday, I ordered some Archer eyeball decals, along with some tattoo decals. I suck at eye painting. If I get one right, the other does not fit and the figure looks, like it needs some eye surgery. I will post my results with the eyeball decals.Cheers Rob
Thank you, Rob. I have seen those decals... but never bought any yet. I'll look forward to your results.
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15 hours ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
Thanks for the necessary four colors - just being a novice at this, what is the actual red and blue or does it matter which shade of each is used?
Keep 'em comin
Peter
Thank you, Peter. The shades don't matter as long as you are close to the basic colors. For instance I wouldn't choose a red that looked tinted orange or any other color. But if you're buying... buy from an art supply. Much cheaper than 'model' colors. The most important thing is that the flesh color you make looks realistic to you. I only have a few colors. White, Red, blue, black, Yellow, burnt umber, burnt sienna, yellow ocher, and terre Verde (a green). The later four colors were to reduce the amount of mixing required. But the truth is, as long as you have the first five, you can make any color you want. I may never need to buy another tube of oil paint. I waste a lot though. Because I rarely need as much as I squeeze on to a pallet.
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Hey everyone...
Not a lot of bench time, so I'm prioritizing our pilot tonight. If he is in Valhalla... I hope he is happy with my work.
To paint flesh-tone, you need the following colors.
Anyway... here he is... I even made a stab at painting his eyeballs... since he actually has them.
I hope that once the uniform is complete that his colors look right.
Happy modelling!
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19 hours ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
Nothing like sanding, filling, sanding and filling and sanding, unless it's the scribing that has to be replaced caused by all the sanding and filling. Your making nice progress, just seems as if it's a never ending task. Nice subtle work with the shading on the pilots face - looks so good.
I guess I'm one of the few that still does the oleo's the old fashioned way: gloss black over primers and then Alclad Chrome. I've been wanting to try the chrome pens as they seem a much better way.
Keep 'em comin
Peter
Thank you, Peter. Really... the chrome pens are a bit like many teenagers. Only do exactly what you want them to do part of the time. So best used rarely.
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20 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Lovely work on the „Beulen“ Gary.
Why did you paint the ones on the wings gloss black? Control regarding rework?What is the brown putty you used for the fuselage-bulges?
Weirosters face looks great! I should really use oils for face painting.I also sometimes have the same problem with the Molotow pencils like you. Returned to BMF like you if the oleo is too long.
Looking forward to seeing the next update!
Thank you, Kai.
If you want to find the tiniest flaws... gloss black is the way to go. The brown filler is just Tamiya paint, straight from the can. I'm experiment with using it as a filler. I mean... how different can it be from Mr. Surfacer? Less sand?
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4 hours ago, Martinnfb said:
I was set to boycott Trumpeter for ever and ever after, but……what was I thinking. Should be a quick build. The aftermarket I ordered consisting of harness, wheels, guns, IP and decals, costs more that the kit itself.
4 hours ago, Peterpools said:Martin
Glade you decided to stop boycotting Trumpeter and bought their Hurricane kit. Looking forward to following your upcoming build.
Keep ‘em comin
Peter
Hmmm.... Well, I'll never buy Trumpeter again.
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Hombres,
Much of today was spent filling... and sanding. Then filling some more.... and sanding. Filling, scribing, and sanding. Etc, ad nauseum. There was also some fitting... but in the main it was the cowling area and the wing beulen.
With my day fading away, I pushed onto the parts ready for oils. First, our pilot got his blue layer. It's meant to be very faint. I didn't want to give him a big five o'clock shadow and photos of Herr Weiroster don't give me the impression that he was very hirsute. So... subtle shades under both eyes, the shaving area, and the back of the hand.
Finally... I'd painted the LG some time ago in RLM 02. Yesterday I hit them the Molotow Chrome Pen. Unfortunately, my pen seems to have two speeds... either no paint... or a flood. I think I will go back to foiling the oleos. As the last modelling task today I shaded them with a darker shade of RLM 02
Once the oil dries I can paint the details like the metal clamps that hold the stainless brake line in place. I'm also going to check on any data plates that may be there.
Happy modelling!
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Kai,
The painting is looking top notch. I'm really liking the weathering you have done to the green. Really looking forward to the unmasking!
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9 hours ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
Some mighty nice correction work and a load of time as well, needed to fix all the inaccuracies. Completely agree with Kai that in today's age, how a kit can be so inaccurate other then 'good enough is good enough'. Only time will tell how accurate ZM's 109 and 190 will be.
Keep 'em comin
Peter
3 hours ago, Bomber_County said:Gaz, just catching up, looks like my work situation is about to hit rock bottom so time to read what everyone’s been up to a fire up the bench again. The build with all of its problems is looking great, how can some companies get it so wrong, hopefully Mr ZM will cast his magic…….
Thank you, fellas! Now that ZM has 109's in the pipeline, I have to ensure I get all of my other 109's built. Nothing worse than having kits in your stash you don't want to build. I only have one so far... and it's WNW!
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10 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
What an amount of correction work you have to do. Can’t understand why Revell made so many faults.
Didn‘t know up to now that the wing bulges for the wheels are also wrong.
Were the Barracuda correction parts extra created for the Revell kit? Astounding that they don‘t fit at all!Quite good solution for the correction of the fuselage width!
The fit of the oil-cooler looks very good!
The gaps with the cheek-pieces not! But nothing that can’t be solved.Keep up with the excellent work!
I found the Hasegawa 109s in 32nd Scale not that bad. Already build a F and a G. Are they really that bad that we need ZM?
Thank you, Kai. Yes, it's a mystery that so much could be so wrong. And yes, those parts were made for the Revell kit. I'm a bit disappointed in Barracuda as the parts I ordered from them either required modification or were useless. Lesson learned.
I have built the Hasegawa F but not the G. Hasegawa kits are generally nice. But simple. More like enlarged 1/48 kits. I have a G6 in the stash.
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Coming along very nicely
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That green looks great, Kai. I imagine you'll be looking forward to the last color and peeling off all of that tape.
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Gottfreid Weiroster Bf 109G6 R6 Revell 1/32
in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
Posted
Beulen, beulen, beulen... ,keep those beulen smoothin'... Though yer disaproovin'....
With apologies to whoever wrote the 'Rawhide' theme.
I will say that this is the last Revell G6 I'll build. Between the three manufacturers, Revell, Barracuda, and Eduard, the meeting isn't exactly complete. So, using CA as my principle filler, I've beaten them into a close proximity of what I'd like them to be.
Why blue paint? I don't paint a lot of blue. I bought it by mistake and I use it to tint colors, or to help me find errors. It's MRP lacquer. And I must have sprayed it 6 times today. To remove it and prevent build-up I used 100% IPA. Cleans it off like a dream!
... that's 7 hours of my life I won;t get back.
Anyway....
After that it was time to dry fit the wing pieces. You'll notice substantial gaps on all sides of the wing center pieces. As the pieces do not slide laterally... unless I start cutting away plastic... I will have to fill all four gaps separately.
I'm thinking the best way to do this is to cement card to the wing root and the wing outer pieces... and sand them until they fit... Because I don't want to have to scribe the panel line.
I also needed shims to bring the trailing edges level. But perhaps the adding the flaps will solve that problem. I'll have to consult the directions and do a little dry fitting.