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GazzaS

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Posts posted by GazzaS

    Identify this aircraft.... please!

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    15 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

    What aircraft?

     

    8 hours ago, JohnB said:

    Who cares?! LOL :D

     

    4 hours ago, Jeff said:

    There's an aircraft in the pic???  Where??:rofl:

     

    2 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

    That's what I was thinking. 

    Exactly!  Sorry...it was really just a poor excuse to interject some TNA into the forum.

    • Haha 3

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    21 minutes ago, DocRob said:

    I have something like this and for the few occasions, it worked good with decals and 0,5 mm styrene. The punches are sharpened and the brass part is a spindle to turn the punch, when pressing the handle. It was very cheap, but is useful.

    Cheers Rob

    image.jpeg.776002ca2c34a5819ecb51cdfec007ef.jpeg

    What is is called.Rob?

    • Like 2

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    22 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

    I would solve the problem in 2 ways depending on the progress of the build:

    If the 2 assemblies are not glued together I would shim the part at the engine deck, cut it to shape and sand it a little. The rest of filling the (very small) left gap will be done by the glue.

    If they are glued together already why not use sprueglue for closing the gap? This will for sure close it in a way that you won’t see it afterwards.

    And - as Doc Rob said - I don’t think either that it will be at least visible in the end...

    They are clued at the engine end.  Only in the cockpit area is it not glued.  Otherwise, that was my plane...  to use superglue.  My favorite filler.

    • Like 3

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    4 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

    Really good fotos Gaz! 


    Taking into account the diameter of the bezels I won’t do anything. I don’t think that the eye of the viewer will realize that when the whole thing is installed in the pit.

    I also avoided up to now to buy a punch-and-die set. They are so expensive and I don’t need them very often.

    What helps me is a hole maker you use to make holes into a belt or a jeans. The variety of diameters is not great but within an acceptable range and I had no problems to die out holes in sheet of 1/2-3/4 mm thickness.

    And the biggest advantage: It is not that costly and your wife is happy and you can pay it out of the monthly budget of the household...;)

     

    Kai,

       That's a great idea.  Thank you.  I'm just wondering if it will pierce acetate.or stretch it.  I'll experiment with the tools I have...  I might not do anything for a while.

    I really need to learn the ins- and outs- of acetate as it looks like a superior way to make WWI windscreens.

     

     

    • Like 3

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Happiness is closing up a fuselage...  at least for us on this forum, it's a major step on the road to completion.   I'm almost there....

    After a short tussle, I got the HGW fabric belts into shape.  They are really a pleasure to work with compared to PE belts.....  and... they'll never get the sprung look if they become disconnected.

    P1013552.thumb.JPG.5c7cb57269e02a3cbb191d78dfd675ca.JPG

    While adding the engine deck, I realized that all wasn't perfect.

    P1013558.thumb.JPG.011b922f796035e6d92e4658b7e462e6.JPG

    If I cement the engine deck to the fuse, there will be quite a margin between both turtlebacks.  Sanding the aft section will result in having some dangerously thin material.  Because of the visible nature of the cockpit, there are complications...  so, I can't just fill it with putty and walk away.

    A:  I have no idea what the putty will look like on the inside of the cockpit.

    and B:  No idea if I can make it look good or, unnoticeable.

    P1013559.thumb.JPG.fe736807b630aee73c44eca3ea8cf408.JPG

    So....  my current plan is this:

    1.  I'll put a narrow shim near the back corner of the gap, and use CA to make the first thin skin which once dried will hopefully support the raised turtleback.  I'll let it dry overnight to be certain.  That means I have to wait until tomorrow so I am certain that I won't dislodge the new joins by adding the shims.

     

    2.   I'll fill in the area where the shims were with CA...  and let them dry overnight.

     

    3.  I'll reverse the wood grain painting process on the CA barrier in the gap, starting with Tamiya clear yellow, and then my wood color.

     

    4.  Continue filling in with CA until I can sand it smooth.

     

    Anyway....    that's the plan. 

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    This is more like it!

     P1013551.JPG.a7074145d038698cba2d7453cba8b6a9.JPG

     

    To take photos like this, I had to put my light box on top of a large storage container on the dining room table.

     

    P1013550.thumb.JPG.2750237961073817b5afa4474786f7ed.JPG

     

    Then I put the tripod on the table with the legs un-extended.  This allows me to put the lens only centimeters from the part I want to photograph.

     

    P1013549.JPG.5e63a1aeae48b7e058ad7a987170c22e.JPG

     

    I used oils to form some false shadows.

     

    You can see there is some 'fluff' around the outer edges of the bezels.  I will tell you, these things are tiny.  Probably only 5mm across.  I tried to trim them close enough with scissors, but probably failed.  I have a punch and die set, but it's an automotive set, and not a modellers set.  I will experiment with it with some left-over material and see if it responds well to punch and die...  then i'll bite the not-inexpensive bullet and buy a punch and die set made for modelling.

    • Like 5

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Thank you Rob!  The art PE was nice first off...  well, the 3 bezels I cut from the fret came off nice and easy.  There is a lot of PE there.  I donlt mind having spare parts. 

     

    One of their "things" is stuff that is made of layers of PE.  Five or six flat parts stacked to make a three dimensional object.  They even include things like a PE flight column.  But it's too flat to look right.  But there are parts to dress up everything.   Well worth the investment as these Roden kits can only be improved by a little brass.

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Hello Friends,

        More work...  some of the most tiny kind.

    If you follow the directions, they would have you attach both fuselage halves to lower wing at the same time.

    P1013537.thumb.JPG.8dc8b1325cc90ccde214dd18af5fa4cc.JPG

    If you're like me and think that would be a bit awkward, don't attach the ammo and fuel assy as the directions say.  I found this out the hard way on my first Roden Alby.

    So, I attached it to the fuselage...  because there is a rib that runs the length of each side of the fuselage.

    P1013535.thumb.JPG.49e1fe8673cc01f515213ef48eaa7654.JPG

    I also added stiffeners to the dorsal and ventral fuselage seams.

    The Roden plastic is pretty soft.  I set the fuel and ammo assy last night between the halves and let it dry as it didn;t want to stay in place any other way.

    P1013533.thumb.JPG.b9fc478da689a08960dd9049d6518396.JPG

    The fuselage is made to fit the Alb. III.  So, you need to remove the cabane strut bases.

    P1013534.thumb.JPG.7eb20b6069d9d351f8d198fe30848c2d.JPG

    Believe it or not, there are enough parts in the box to make a D.II out of this kit without buying the Encore kit.  The only parts you need to alter are the length of the wing struts.  The II and III cabanes are already in the kit.

    You want some detail?

    Part (that's the company name) makes a boffo detail up set.  It has an acetate sheet and skads of PE.

    P1013539.thumb.JPG.858dae9705ae927f54c800d60e276393.JPG

    Now...  this is a completely new thing to me.  I even had to put on my custom readers at 4.82X to do it.

    Brass bezel rings over acetate guage detail, over the plastic parts:

    P1013542.thumb.JPG.36a7536f9a04df9637183f7cffb446a2.JPG

    The pictures are horrible.  The white background makes everything look horrible.  Once I do the oil detailing I'll put up some better pics.

     

    Thanks fer looking!

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 1

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Peterpools said:

    Gaz

    Holy Cow - brilliant work. Enjoying following your progresss.

    Keep 'em comin

    Peter

     

    4 hours ago, SapperSix said:

    Good job as always Gaz.  Thanks for the wood working testing.  I will be needing that information pretty quick here.  The completed Albatross is a fine looking model.  I would gladly fly it around the room making airplane noises.  Looking forward to more on this build. 

    Thank you, Guys!

    • Like 2
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