GazzaS
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Posts posted by GazzaS
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Nice work on the office!
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Looking good!
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14 hours ago, DocRob said:
I built two SSW's in 48 scale and used different wood finishes on both of them. The upper is AK's crystal orange, the lower is Tamiya's clear orange, both applied with a brush.
Thinking about the ammo boxes and my hopefully soon to build Fokker E.II, it might be possible to recreate the two tone metallic look with hairspray technique. When time comes, I will try the mentioned methods.
Cheers Rob
Thank you for the info! The Tamiya clears are just too potent... or whatever the correct phrase is for too-color-intense. Truly, the best use I found for Tamiya orange is to "stain" the frame area of the base for my Großer Kurfürst base. It is true... if you mix blue and orange, you do get brown... but again... too strong.
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29 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Did you try the tip with the scalloped look of the ammo-boxes?
Not yet. I spent a little modelling time with the StuG figures after work. Will try some stuff on my paint hack when I have a little time.
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15 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Do you have a picture real color on wood?
All in all an awesome start Gaz!
Can‘t wait to see the next update!
Kai
Thank you Kai!
Were you wanting a picture of the Tamiya yellow on plain wood, or were you asking for pictures of the real thing?
I have contemplated trying to find images of real cockpits from the period. However... here is the problem. Many stained woods darken with age. In 100 hundred plus years huge difference could occur. So, even if we found an un-restored Albatros... the color of the wood would be deceiving.
15 hours ago, Bomber_County said:For not a lot of time, you got a lot done........looking great as ever, never built Roden .........
Thank you. Phil! Much of the building was done over time. All I really accomplished this weekend was the upper-engine work.
15 hours ago, DocRob said:The engine will look great Gaz, as the rockers and springs are very visible, it's a great enhancement.
I had the same idea in my head concerning the Molotow chrome pens on AK's Extreme metal in my case. Thanks for the warning, I will try other solutions, maybe with Molotows masking pens on aluminum base and then sprayed on another tone. Another test would be the use of the AK pencils on an aluminum base layer.
The wood looks good to me, albeit very light, indeed. When I made my first tests with woodgrain replicated with oils, I got a better result using AK's crystal orange, than Tamiya clear yellow and orange. The AK tone is less intense and dries more matteThe upper third on the pic is Chrystal orange from AK, the middle is Tamiya's clear yellow and the bottom part is Tamiya's clear orange, all applied with a brush.
The AK Crystal orange is my favorite, because it dries with a silky surface, where the Tamiya clears have a high gloss finish. The AK orange is also easier to apply, because it is thinner and doesn't tend to puddle.There is my wooden
test Panther hull
Cheers Rob
Rob,
Thank you! I will look at the AK colors. FWIW... the color I want is that yellow stripe going right down the center of your test area in the upper zone as it appears. I am just about out of Tamiya clear yellow. So, it may be perfect time to try the AK.
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Thank you, Guys!
I didn't get as much done this weekend as I'd liked. A few things to do, then my lovely granddaughter spent the night Saturday. So, between taking the dog to the chiropractor and cuddles... I only had a few hours today.
Today's work was mostly on the engine. There were a few sink marks to fill... hard to miss as the black CA shows the way:
The exhaust and the strange looking piece above it are only pinned on. Interestingly this engine has spark plugs molded on. And... the rocker cover and springs are AM... so much more detailed than the kit rocker.
I also lagged the magneto pipes after thinning them substantially. I used cigarette paper as the lagging tape.
I worked on other interior components as well. I tried to get that scalloped look on the ammo boxes. It didn't quite pan out. Next time I might foil the boxes first and then try something else. Because Molotow chrome pen over Alclad doesn't cut the mustard.
There is another problem I have. That problem is the color orange. Idfleig (Inspektion der Fliegertruppen - "Inspectorate of Flying Troops") directed that that yellow stain was to be used on the Albatros fighters. Remember all of those Dark wood Albatros profiles in books in the 80's? Learning about the effects of orthochromatic film made a lot of models and pictures instantly 'wrong'.
But it is really hard to get right. Believe it or not, I made four different attempts on my paint hack. And I'm still not sure... but I want to try. This effort is very light brown followed by other steps. The brown is so light that it is hard to distinguish from pink. Then the wood grain was marked in with colored pencils... then blended with varying success. Then sprayed with Tamiya clear yellow thinned 50/50. Finally, a brown filter gives the results shown.
Tamiya yellow is very powerful. Any hint of yellow in your base paint just makes it worse.
Anyway... the weekend is over. Have a great modelling week, my friends!
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Sorry Phil... didn't see you down here! I've done a couple cellar builds down here, too. So, I'll try to remember to scan this far down. Those PE screens look great, and I bet all of the resin detail will look sweet painted up.
Strappin' in!
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Kai, the intake and nose cone areas look so much nicer now. You're really making this bird look great. Pre-scribing the details gave me an idea to share.... I'll try to make this short as it may help both of us on future models:
Some friends at my club AMMS Brisbane told me how to handle the notorious dorsal spine panel line on the Bf 109. They told me the easiest thing to do was to sand each side of the joint at a slight angle to widen the line at the top before closing it up. Then... once the fuselage halves are glued together, your perfect line is still there. Here is a small , simplified illustration.
It just occurred to me that this technique might help with nose cones, tail cones, and also the front cowlings of some radial engined models. I think it might have been very helpful with the cowling on that PCM 190 I just finished. Actually... it might be useful anywhere a panel line coincides with a seam.
Hopefully we'll see some color, soon!
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8 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:
Man, the squirrel is strong this year. I've been having a hard time focusing on a single build. Case in point:
With it being a Bandai kit, I might actually get to the end of it. Knock on wood.
On a separate note, we had to fix the faucet at the front of our house which meant we had to take down one of the false walls in the basement. Doing so, we found a bunch of extra space which has led to the decision to reorganize the basement. Which means my bench will be moving soon. The good news is I'll finally get a dedicated painting area.
Here's the space in question.
The wall used to go straight across. You can make out where I cut it at the top left. It's now on the right side of the pic. The space actually extends an additional two feet behind that so is a fair size. Moving everything around should hopefully open up some more space overall.
Carl
That's quite a space to not-know-about. Good thing it wasn't occupied.
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6 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Nice to get to know your wife Gaz!
hahaha. I lack the funds for a trophy wife.
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I prefer the short tail myself.
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10 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Looked that up now in the Ta-152-bible:
It seems to be the emblem of III./JG301 and not the personal emblem of Willi Reschke.
Thank you for the extra effort! Good to know!
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Looks good!
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Wow, Martin! Great work!
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Exceptional painting, John!
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Very nice job, Kai! Really love the paintwork on this one. Great Diorama!
What is the symbol with the tiger and propeller?
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Neat and tidy!
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Excellent detailing!
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Very nice work!
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Thank you all for all of the kind, interested responses.
We never did a proper initiation for this build. Here is the box art:
For a "not so good kit" and for the fact that there weren't many D.I's operational, you get four schemes to build.
You can see two here with some of the assembled internal components.
Dunno how well you can see the cushion, but I modified it using scribing tools to put in the stress lines between the buttons.
Unfortunately both wings were warped a bit causing some nasty anhedral. I made some grooves on the inside of the lower wing section and cold-bended the anhedral out. For the upper wing I used clamps and a hair dryer. I also attached both ailerons using three brass pins in each. Should be all right. It's been in myu stash for a while and I may have repacked everything wrong.
Finally, the reinforced struts... all painted in a very faint feldgrau. I may change the color a bit. I know weathering will add some variations.
But damn! It feels good to be working on an Albatros. After so much time with D.III and D.V's, the wide chord of the lower wing feels quite strange. But cool, nevertheless.
Happy modelling!
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Those lg look sweet!
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a new job?
in General Discussion
Posted
Good luck getting your new job, Mark.