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GazzaS

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    I feel the need... for Shake and Bake... Tamiya StuG

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Ugh...  

    Even though I painted the commander's face as well, this guy is the better looking of the two.  I thought his face looked pretty good with just my glasses on.P1013435.JPG.4f639820df06622cb2d8f600fa509d00.JPG

     

    Blown up, he looks so much worse.  Practice, Grasshopper.

     

    I'll let him dry overnight, then start on the uniforms.  One of the problems I find is that on one side of these Dragon Figs, you have one real eyeball to work with, and on the other side, a hole.

     

    Oh well.

    • Like 5

    I feel the need... for Shake and Bake... Tamiya StuG

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    11 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

    Wow great variety of beautiful models.

    The diorama with the 2 Tanks in Africa is stunning! 
    Also like how your old Revell Me-109 turned out (Eagle Cals).

    I also mix colors when needed e.g. to create another shade. Just testing is important. For this I have an old 48scale DC-3 fuselage which consists of >100   (:D) color layers in the meantime...

    Now finish your StuG Gaz...;)

    Thank you, Kai.

    No Eagle Cals.  Except for the Swastika, all of the markings were done with masks I made.

    The tank diorama was a more of a slide-show with a back drop printed at home.   Here is the rest of it in-order:

    O672N6.jpg

    qUP99R.jpg

    ovE0UF.jpg

    LnNSH4.jpg

    uKp3i1.jpg

    kmOqow.jpg

     

    • Like 4

    I feel the need... for Shake and Bake... Tamiya StuG

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    53 minutes ago, Peterpools said:

    Gsz

    Looking so good. Thanks for the tip on using “student paints” and will be giving them a shot

    Keep ‘em comin

    Petrr

    Thank you, Peter.  Before you get involved, there is a bit more to it.  You will need a couple of other things to make the process work. 

    1.  You will need a flow improver.  Vallejo makes one, but I made my own using 50/50 water and windex with a couple drops of glycerine or dish washing liquid.   This reduces surface tension of the paint, thins the paint, and helps work against dry tip.  Ammonia based glass cleaner can strip the chrome from your airbrush.

     

    2.  Acrylic paints are pretty fragile.  To make them more robust, the bulk of the thinning is done with Future.

     

    3.  Mixing.  It is easy to get blobs of your tube paint if you don't mix properly.  And by properly, I mean there is a process to follow:

          Once your colors are mixed to satisfaction, you have to begin the thinning process.  You start by only adding a tiny bit of Future or flow improver (1/2 drops) and stirring it in.  You keep working this way until your paint is fully liquid.  Then you can start adding larger amounts until you get the right thickness for spraying.

     

    Sounds like a lot of work.  But once you have a routine set it's pretty easy.  When I was a kid, I had little money and only a few bottles of paint.  Often when I tried to mix my own colors, I ended up wasting more and more trying to get the right colors from what I had.  So,I when I returned to the hobby, I looked for a way to ensure I wouldn't waste whole pots of model paint when I only needed a a small amount of color.

     

    Critical to this effort is a color mixing book.  The color recipe book provides you with many chips and the recipes to make them.  Some of these chips won't be perfect to the shade you want.  But they will get you close enough to where you can use your intuition.  Best of all...  if you ruined it all by going to dark, or whatever...  you've only wasted a few cents as a tube of acrylic paint will only cost a couple bucks.

    color-mixing-recipes-for-oil-acrylic.web

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    What is on your bench right now ? Share a picture :)

    in Modelling Discussion

    Posted

    5 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

    Actually it's because I wanted a hitch with a 2" receiver which meant a Class III hitch. Curt only lists a Class III hitch for the Element LX and EX but not the SC. I figured "how different could they be". Turns out that the SC has a different bumper so had to cut away the extra bumper mounts (angle grinder) and then straighten the centre hitch mounting plate (sledge). 

    Bravely modified!

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1

    Tamiya Spit Mk IX

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Nice work, John! 

    If I might suggest....

    I got some custom made reading glasses for rigging.  They are X4.82.  If you use X5, the working distance is too short.  X5 is what watchmakers use.  X4.82 gives you a working distance of 8 inches.  Got them made at Specsavers here in AUS.  Love them for the ultra-fiddly work.

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1

    I feel the need... for Shake and Bake... Tamiya StuG

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    14 hours ago, Jeff said:

    That's really good info for me as well, Gaz, I have some art store oils as well, but was a little apprehensive on using them.... now I know they will work just fine.... I want to try my hand at oils as well..... I REALLY need to step out of my comfort zone, and your information will certainly help me do that..... I LOVE what you're doing here.....

    Glad to be of help, Jeff.  I try to avoid expensive hobby brands when I suspect I can save some dosh.   I've even painted models with tube acrylics with no troubles.  All of the models below were painted with student grade acrylic tube paint.

    V4eC5t.jpg

    OTwCnW.jpg

    JYMmRD.jpg

    qUP99R.jpg

    ZS4SI4.jpg

    NkPC41.jpg

    Fy4rNp.jpg

     

    While using tube acrylics might not be the most time efficient method, it allows the modeller to create any color while spending pennies per model.  The only 'extra' purchases required were some cheap stuff to make flow enhancer and a color recipe book.

    The T-34 was my first really big step into oils.  I'd done some timid stuff with oils before.  And I eventually over-weathered this T-34 losing some of the color modulation you see in this pre-RFI shot.

     

    Sorry... thread drift.  My apologies.

    • Like 3

    I feel the need... for Shake and Bake... Tamiya StuG

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

    Awesome progress Gaz. Looks absolutely stunning after the last 2 steps you did!

    Which oils for you use for the hands and faces (supplier and colors)? I want to give it a try! Thanks in advance!

    Thank you Kai, I have only used burnt sienna by Holcroft (an art store brand) for the man's face.  The base color is tamiya flesh.  I only have art store oils...  I don't imagine that Mig or AK are any better.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    Roden Albatros D.I

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    My next aircraft on my list to build is Roden's Albatros D.I in 1/32 scale.  It's a nice kit with only a couple weaknesses that trouble me.  Those troubles inspired me to to address them before I get on to the fun stuff.

     

    My first Roden Albatros was a D.III version which turned out like this:

    8xkajo.jpg

    I will tell you the most important difference between a Roden kit and a WNW kit.  If you were to build both OOB with no modifications and perform a barrel roll with each, the Roden kit will most likely lose it's upper wing.  That is because the gluing surface on the Roden struts is so much smaller than on a WNW kit.  This caused me much heartache while completing the D.III.

     

    So, on my next Roden build I decided I would start by reworking the struts first.  Unfortunately, none of my brass or copper tube was the right size to flatten into nice struts.  So, I tried a couple other methods with metal parts, but found that they would take longer than I wanted to invest.  So, I decided to modify the existing parts with some brass .5mm rod.

    P1013424.thumb.JPG.fb433f67ea6af3095fa610519a3d474e.JPG

    I used various scribing tools and small files to make the troughs.  I ran out of time. but will complete filling in around the rod with black CA then sand smooth.  BTW...  Roden plastic is a bit softer than WNW plastic so the LG struts are a bit wobbly.  I will pin them at the top before I glue them to the fuselage after I have modified the joint angle appropriately.

     

    Otherwise....  this should be an enjoyable build.

     

    Happy Modelling!

     

    Gaz

    • Like 8
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