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rkranias

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Everything posted by rkranias

  1. rkranias
    TOUCH UP ON COWL AND RUDDER A little touch needed for the cowling and rudder. Certainly an improvement. I am counting on weathering will blend the offenders I could not fix. The windscreen was replaced as well.
  2. rkranias
    beautiful Ralph, the NMF is spot on.
  3. rkranias
    Me thinks Barracuda is the only game in town for the RR plates.
  4. rkranias
    well done, agree with Jeroen on all counts.
  5. rkranias
    Thanks Mike. These last few weeks have been hell getting bench time. Between snow days, sick kids, travel, blah, blah...bench time has been a premium. Trying reall hard to wrap up the FW190 by weekend. So I can finish my Jug in short order. Then resume on the Ju88G1 Mistel 2.
  6. rkranias
    nice scheme. one of these days I am going on rivet frenzy.....perhaps on my Fly Ar234.
  7. rkranias
    Happy Birthday! hihihihihihihihihihi
  8. rkranias
    Thanks for the tip Torben. Did you rub while transfer was wet? Dry?
  9. rkranias
    most observant. that is how I peeled off the wet transfers. I just waded them up, along with several colorful metaphors.
  10. rkranias
    I'm always game for something hot.
  11. rkranias
    This afternoon I did a test, applied decal on gloss varnished surface waited 4 hours...fail. Will try Mr.Setter on my next test. Thanks JH!
  12. rkranias
    Not sure what happened. Water not hot enough? Let transfers sit overnight before I removed "foil? Is 3 to 4 hours the max time before removing the "foil"? Varnish did not allow the decal to "bite" to the surface Is preferred surface a "non varnish"? I peeled off the "foil" and this happened. The transfer (image/art/text) came off with the "foil". Any coaching or solution would be much appreciated.
  13. rkranias
    thanks for feedback. at this point no gloss has yet to be applied over the decal/offending spot. yeah, EagleCals not settling is a first for me. Hairdryer will have a test....
  14. rkranias
    I am using EagleCal decals and MicroSol setting solution. When the MicroSol dries I am getting little "spots" on the decal. These spots seem like a "crystallized pool". Most noticeable. Further, the decal is not setting into the panel lines. Any coaching/recommendations would be most appreciated. Skip MicroSol? Hotter water? Hair Dryer?
  15. rkranias
    love this scheme! and the meaning "Have A Go Jo".
  16. rkranias
    Thanks EagleDocF15 Been eyeballing my ZM Ta152...... thanks CoolBoxx
  17. rkranias
    EPIC HGW FAIL Not sure what happened. Water not hot enough Let transfers sit overnight before I removed "foil" Varnish did not allow the decal to "bite" to the surface I peeled off the "foil" and this happened. Image Credit - DoogsATX Will use regular decals throughout. Might give the stencils a try.
  18. rkranias
    My Dear James. Hihihihihihihi The detail of your response was indeed well thought out and succinct. Thank you my friend. I should have made myself more clear, my bad. Wet Transfers Assumption they are treat the same as decals. Apply on varnished surface, when dry apply varnish. Then apply weathering, etc. My angst is ruining the Wet Transfers by applying the wrong varnish and wreathing treatment.
  19. rkranias
    Thanks Jim. Noting, Flory wash may be applied on any surface Solvent or Acrylic. MiG or AK wash must be applied on an Acrylic surface. That said, after wet transfers applied and cured to prep for the wash the gloss finish applied over the wet transfers must be an acrylic like Vallejo or Tamiya? Alclad or Mr Color solvent base gloss/clear over cured wet transfers is a No, No? Dumb this down for me Jim as I am not a smart man.
  20. rkranias
    Anyone have experience using HGW Wet Transfers? With a wash? AK Interactive, Florys, MiG? Thanks for any feedback. Rick
  21. rkranias
    MORE MASKING AND PAINT I must have used a mile of masking tape on this build and my time spent masking has surpassed actual build time. So here we go. Position of the art before cutting the masks. Cowling and scallop painted. Results not as I hoped with mask lifting where the scalloped edge joined the straight edge. Will attempt to clean/blend the edges. The port side scallop will be covered with nose art. So I will only need to focus on the starboard side. Masks cut for ID Bands. Using Radu Brizan's 1:32 scale ruler the 12" is for the rudder and the 15" is for the stabilizers. ID Bands are Tamiya NATO Black. Fin Filet is dry fitted. Will address the rudder lines next. Next will be cleaning the scallop edges, rudder lines, replace the windscreen then hit with varnish for decal prep.
  22. rkranias
    REPAINT COMPLETE Following some coaching I thinned down Mr. Color RLM 74/75 4:1 at 18psi yielded much better results. Each mottle required several passes. Thank you Jim Hatch. Apologizes for the crummy iPhone pics. This is the what I am trying to achieve. Added some mottle along the fuselage and cowling as the photos of actual plane showed more mottle. On deck is varnish, decals (HGW Wet Transfers), landing gear and drop tank.
  23. rkranias
    amazing.....
  24. rkranias
    M10's got a pass of Mr. Color OD.
  25. rkranias
    IT'S NOT A TORPEDO CMK's 600l Drop Tank gets a dry fit. Looks badass. Wash of RLM 76 to come.
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