rkranias

I'm a fan of Black Basing/Marbling technique. It works well for me. All paints are Mr. Color 306 Gray and 304 Olive Drab diluted 1:2 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. Mr. Color 306 Gray applied using my Mr. Color/Creos PS770 airbrush. Then Mr. Color 304 Olive Drab. Then a thinned 1:3 Mr. Color 306 Gray/Mr. Leveling Thinner on the lower and thinned 1:3 Mr. Color 304 Olive Drab/Mr. Leveling Thinner layered and blended on the appropriate marbled color. Thinned Tamiya Smoke has been applied aft of the cooling flaps. This is phase one of weathering for this area. Exhaust NobleKraft NK3201 P40B resin exhausts replace kit multi piece nightmare. Canopy masked inside and out then painted.

Quite a few personal curve balls thrown my way these past few months. i'm happy to resume some much needed bench time. Roy launched the release of his P40B wheel set. I was planning on using HAS P40 "smooth" wheels to replace the hideous TRU kit wheels. The HAS wheels are good. The Barracuda P40B wheels knock everything available out of the park. I'll compare the Barracuda wheels with the TRU P40B kit wheels. Mr. Color 1500 Black Primer applied. Time to lay some paint.

Placed an order with H & B and within minutes of order confirmation I realized I made an error. Shot email to H & B and received prompt response from Bob Souza. Following a few email exchanges problem was solved. This my clearly my fault and Bob worked with me very hard to make things right. This was my first order from H & B Hobbies and will not be my last. H & B Hobbies Thanks Bob!

My Uncle, an antique dealer, gave me this wooden model what appears to be a shuttle. Looks like its at least 40 years old. I am going to sand and repaint. What is it? Anyone ever see anything like this? Any data on origin? Aerospace firm? Appears to be aerospace schwag for display on desk. A scale model envisioned by the builder? Project working towards an Eagle Scout? The holes are for display mounts. Curious what the #4 means, its a decal. Rear holes are for engine nozzles. I have them. You can also see original color, looks like FS Gull Grey. Some filling and sanding will be needed to repair the "fin"

A few 1/144 birds waiting to be strung up.

great work. the painting/chipping is exceptional. this is a big bird.

Undersides getting some love. Shell ejector slots cut out and black primer applied to find any seam imperfections. Stabilizers got some love to eliminate several rows of rivets.

Finally making progress on this build. Fuselages and wings glued. Fuselage and wing edge seams cleaned. Will address the wing root next. Black primer applied to find any offensive seams. Scratchbuilt cockpit fits well. I lighted this image to show inside detail so color is indeed off. Port side of cockpit. Seat not installed. Stall buzzer on starboard real panel scratchbuilt with punched discs and some creative sanding. Pilot armor back not glued, yet. I have a plan.

good luck.... when in DC

Thanks Rob!

Please help me with feedback on GasPatch turnbuckles. I’m sure there’s been plenty of discussion. To my chargrin I have missed any posts on this topic. I’m planning to plunge into my WNW stash in near future. I’ve studied GP offerings and I’m kinda clear on turnbuckle selection. To save me time and angst researching walk around images I’m asking for some feedback. My questions are for the following a/c: D7 Alb Dh9 Snipe I’m aware the turnbuckles on the Camel are concealed. Does the same go for it’s cousin the Snipe? I see specific Alb turnbuckles. Another question is scale. Are 1:48 turnbuckles better for 1:32 a/c? Are the guns worth considering? I’m certainly open to scratch building turnbuckles with good coaching or links where to find. Thanks for your assist.

nice scratching Danny!

Cheers Cees. Now I need to get this build back on track.

1:32 Tempest Mk.V Nose Correction Set Barracuda Studios Part # BR32334 Available from Barracuda Studios for USD$24.95 About a year ago Special Hobby released it’s long awaited and highly anticipated 1:32 Hawker Tempest Mk.V. This release was met with many positive overviews. However, there is plenty of angst on several shape issues and fidgety construction. Regardless of the shape/fit issues this kit is a winner with plenty of detail and beautifully engraved panel lines and rivets. James Hatch reviewed SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V “Hi-Tech” kit, SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V “Hi-Tech 2” kit and Jeroen Peters reviewed SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V standard kit. I have the “Hi-Tech kit” and started it awhile back. It’s been an enjoyable build regardless of the fidgety cockpit and wheel well construction giving me fits. Be advised you must pay close attention to the instructions as some parts have unique and perhaps impossible fit characteristics. Then that nose! Immediately, the spinner (prop hub) and radiator opening were hit with incorrect shape reports. Spinner too bulb like and the radiator opening too large. To most modelers the difference is hard to notice and Special Hobby’s Tempest Mk.V builds into an imposing WWII fighter with beautiful detail and splendid scheme options. My cockpit complete with only plumbing to be added and the nose with its nasty multi-part construction in final stages of construction, Roy Sutherland announced in late October 2016 a nose correction set for the SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V will be available late 2016. I immediately binned this build waiting for Roy’s replacement set. Sadly, several other Barracuda projects delayed the release of this correction set. Sad for me. However, not for the 1:48 B1 builders. I regularly checked with Roy on the release status. Finally the release announcement came on 31 August 2017. I placed my order and Roy confirmed I was the 1st to acquire this set. This set is designed to correct the nose, radiator, prop and spinner on the otherwise superb Special Hobby Tempest. Before we move forward I need to give a huge kudos and atta boy to Roy Sutherland. The initial release has some mold imperfections. I relayed this data to Roy and he immediately executed, at great expense, a recall. After the imperfections were addressed and fixed all previously shipped Nose Replacements were replaced. The replacement has a black check inside the nose. This process was nothing short of the quality and dedication to Roy’s business model of Barracuda Studios. First Glance Opening the package reveals typical Barracuda mold quality. Smooth surfaces and finely replicated detail duplicating the detail on the original Special Hobby kit. Instructions must be downloaded from Barracuda Studios website. Be sure to print propeller alignment page at 100%. Nose Pour Stub Removal Pour stub removal will require significant patience, at least for me. The following is how I successfully removed the pour stubs. Skill-sets will vary so take into consideration your ability and my recommendations. Safely removing the nose pour stub will require significant sawing and sanding. To prevent crushing the nose like an egg during the sawing/sanding efforts I recommend inserting two internal braces cut from sprue trees. This photo was shot after I successfully removed the nose pour stub. Note, the black check (indicating this is the updated corrected nose) just port of the spinner hole. I will glue at least one of these internal braces when I'm ready to mount nose to fuselage. These will act as spreader(s) to combat any future "resin warp" that may occur. The Nose pour stub is significant. Instructions will ask you to cut through the stub between the spinner and radiator opening. I decided to thin the pour stub with my rotary tool. The pour stub is thinned between the spinner and radiator opening is now a bit manageable, for me. I stepped outside for this grinding procedure. A lot of dust during this process. PRO TIP - Returning to my bench I dampened a towel and placed on bench surface. This controlled the dust, from sawing and sanding, going all over my bench. The pour stub at the radiator opening was very easy to remove. I once again exercise patience. After placing some tape to protect against damaging the fine surface detail I grinded and sawed away the pour stub on the nose. I carefully begin to saw just above the cut line. I do this because I cannot saw straight if my life depended on. This way I will control complete removal by sanding. I start my cut at the 12 o'clock position then move to 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock. I do a few cuts each position around the clock then repeat. It's tedious but it works for me. With saw cuts as deep as I can manage I begin the slow and careful process of removing the pour stub. Using my cutters I carefully remove as much as the block as I am comfortable with. Then the sanding begins. Using a very stiff 120 grit sanding stick (do not used the soft Flexi or Squadron sanding sticks or you might risk uneven sanding) I begin to work away the remains of the pour stub. Holding the nose I carefully rotate and sand a few strokes at a time. BE PATIENT. As I get closer to completion I switched to finer grits 240, 320 sand a few strokes check, repeat then... finish with a 400 grit. Remember I used very stiff sanding sticks. A wet paper towel is laid on my work area to collect the dust. Respirator a must! Spinner and Spinner Backplate Sanding complete I drill the Spinner plate pilot hole with a 1.1mm drill. Then enlarge with a 7/64 inch (approx 2.77mm for those across the pond) drill bit. The spinner backplate is easy to clean. Take care with the back and alignment pin. Sand carefully with a stiff sanding stick, small slow strokes and checking after each stroke will assure even sanding control. Cleaning the spinner is and equally easy task. Take your time and sand carefully. Match the spinner with the spinner backplate and try some test fitting. Some minor surface putty work needed. The radiator opening is due for its cleaning. The hard work is now done. Prop Jig A clever prop jig is included. When you print the instructions be sure your printer is set at 100%. I tried aligning with my PropMaster tool and the proper prop angle could not be achieved. So use supplied jig. Prop aligned on the spinner backplate. Be sure you print the instructions at 100%. Spinner fitted. You will have to paint backplate and inside spinner. Prop blades must be attached before you mount the spinner. Radiator Test Fit The radiator parts will have to be carefully sanded around the edges to fit inside the nose. With my rotary tool using a fine tip grinder bit I carefully smoothed out some snug areas inside the radiator opening for the front radiator piece to fit. Again, sand in small increments and test fit, test fit and test fit. It will fit. Take your time. Nose Comparison Here are some side by side comparison shots of the Special Hobby nose and Barracuda's nose replacement. Prop blades are also corrected. Nose Test Fit The replacement nose fits very well and I see minimum putty and sand work will be required. Remember this is a test/dry fit with tape. Be assured some love will be needed when executing the final glue and attachment. Verdict If you never worked with resin this may be a daunting task. However not impossible. I cannot emphasize the importance care and patience when removing the pour stub from the nose. Otherwise, cleaning of spinner plate, spinner and propellers are very straight forward. The detail and fit are quite nice. Instructions must be downloaded and are clear as crystal. Study them and prepare. If you want a correct nose, spinner and propellers for your already very nice Special Hobby Tempest Mk.V this beautiful offering from Barracuda Studios is a must. Very Highly Recommended Thank you Roy Sutherland!

Need some help guys. Awhile back I saw a vendor offering resin RAF badges, Luftwaffe Badges, USAAF Badges. Painted and unpainted. Has anyone seen these? If yes, please add or send me the link. Thanks - Rick

very nice Jeroen. another epic build!

good work and nice call on the wing fold glue.

yes, many stories of angst. the landing gear is also an alignment nightmare as well. btw - those Balvenie's are the special occasion pours. some of those bottles I've had on my shelf for almost 10 years. several of us in the neighborhood are "collectors" in search of good inexpensive spirits. many small local distilleries are emerging similar to the mico brew trend. so the search is on going for that great find. we also get together to compare our spirit stash with a few good maduros.

Wheel Wells done. This was certifiably a test of patience. Instructions not the clearest and lots of sanding. Following advice from James Hatch I glued the wheel well inside panels to the inside top of wing in lieu of following instructions to glue to inside bottom of wing. While glue is setting I secured the wing assembly with tape to assure a good fit allowing for sanding and adjustments. Pro Tip: Test fit, test fit, test fit. Plumbing to be added then some primer. Nose correction set has arrived. Color me excited! Stay tuned!

Someone say Balvenie?

Call it Alternative Facts. Will post pics soon. Been hectic August here. Vacation, honey-do-list, fall vegetable garden prep and kid activities have kept me away from the bench. School starts next week and the home projects are almost complete. Meanwhile, I just ordered Roy's Tempest nose/prop replacement along with 5 slotted smooth wheel-set. Stay tuned.

Finishing the wheel well or the heavy drinking?

Of course, it you like Speyside single malt.

Zepplin Terror Attack will be aired on PBS (NOVA) 30 Aug @ 2100 ET USA.

Just finished the wheel well assembly. Heavy drinking to follow.