BlrwestSiR

Your work is on another level to what I'm doing. So a little progress on your build is the equivalent of me finishing a model. Great work by the way.

That's my motto!

Thanks Rob, I think you're right about how many car builds there are being a record. As for the lights, I have to agree with you. They do look a bit out of place even if they're better. At least they're separate parts so I can leave them off.

Actually that's the one kit I'm working on. What's hiding is a pair of 1/32 FW 190s.

The biggest challenge with this kit is the lack of instructions. They include some for the assembly of the external roll cage and there's a short video on their website that shows how the suspension goes together. So there's no real information on what to cut/modify on the kit parts. There's also no engine included. On the actual vehicle, a Chevy LS V8 was swapped in place of the stock inline -6. One can either use the kit engine or source a V8 from somewhere else. I ended up buying a Revell 2005 Corvette to act as an engine donor. The first step is to cut down the floorplan to make it fit the pickup body style. I cut it way too short the first time so you can see where I glued it back together and tried again. Next, the central transmission tunnel is cut away between the front seats. Unfortunately I don't have a pic of this. Lastly, to fit the front shock towers, a couple openings need to be cut into the front fender linings. But before that, the shock towers need to be mounted to the frame. Fit the front axle to the frame but don't glue it in place. Then fit the shock towers the frame using the axle as a location guide. With the shock towers in place one can figure out where to cut the openings in the fender linings

A couple years ago I came across a conversion kit made by C1 Models for the Revell Land Rover Series III kit. It allowed one to make a later updated version of the Defender as seen in the James Bond film Spectre. Here's a comparison of the stock kit body with the one in the conversion kit. The Series III body The Defender body. The fender flares, roll bars and bash bar are all separate add-ons, much like they would on the real thing.

I thought it was. Then I couldn't find my tweezers.

Working at my bench, I needed my tweezers to hold a part in place while I glued it on. Except I couldn't find them which I found odd until I looked at the state of my bench. I think I've reached the point where a cleanup/re-organization may be in order. Carl

That's a nice airbrush there Paul. The cutouts on the back are nice. I love Iwata airbrushes too. Almost all of mine are Iwata.

It would be great to go and meet a bunch of you again but it'll have to wait for another year. The trip to Taiwan has tapped out the travel fund. Carl

That looks great Kevin. Well done! Carl

Guilty as charged!

Most of my tweezers are probably best called twangers for the sound they make as parts go twang flying off then.

That's looking very nice there Dave. The fuselage /wing join looks to be a nice fit.

I was trying to find the one I use made by AK until I noticed it's made by Ammo. It's called Ultra Glue and is what I used to replace Gator Glue. I have that around too for paper models. Never thought to use it on the plastic kind. Carl

Go to the dark side and build a Bandai Star Wars kits. Any one of them. Their fit makes a Tamiya kit look like something that was made in the last century. Or should I say the last, last century.

Nice recovery there Kevin. I'm sure you'll be glad to get this finished.

Like Paul said, some amazing work and techniques. Carl

Coming along nicely. I've found that Mission Models paint needs a primer other than their own to stick to kit plastic. I've had it lift far too often otherwise. Carl

More work on random started models that are on my bench. This time it was fitting the chassis to a Land Rover Defender. I'm using the recent Revell kit with a conversion from C1 Models The stock body: The conversion one. Hopefully when I'm done, it'll look something like this.

That Panther looks fantastic. For the zimmerit, I did a wash with a dark brown to bring out the various creases and then a light drybrush. Carl

I wonder if the matter finish is being affected by temperature and/humidity. I've had matte get a frosty look when it's too humid out.

Maybe see if you can find any pics of the actual aircraft to confirm which prop/spinner it had?

Wow, nice pair of kits there Rob. You're really building up quite the collection of MFH kits.

I don't think so. I purchased it in the fall and it was a new item. They smell similar to AK Real Color paints.