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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Tamiya Birdcage Corsair


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It's time to build another one of these great kits. As most of you already know I really like the Tamiya Corsair kits and enjoy building them. So now I'm starting another birdcage -1. I've sprayed the DDG and Salmon primer and will do the Lt. gray landing gear parts next. After examining the kit I find I have lost one important piece. That being the clear armored glass behind the wind screen. On the off chance someone here might have one to spare I'd sure be beholden to you if you'd send it to me. Normally I'd contact Tamiya USA but they are down for inventory until mid January. Hoping someone here can help me out. I checked ebay to see if someone might have the sprue for sale but no luck (-1A & -1D yes but no -1 which is different.) :)

12-23-22 001.jpg

Sprue L-1.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Peterpools said:

John

Nice start on the Birdcage. I looked through my meager parts box and haven't the part. 

Always room for another Corsair.

Any idea of what the paint scheme is going to be yet?

 

Thanks for checking. It will be in the 2 color gray scheme but not decided yet on which one. :)

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1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Sounds good John. Just always the case - a missing part at the worst time and Tamiya, whose customer service is excellent, is closed for inventory. Fingers crossed one of the guys has the part.

 

 

Thanks Peter. It's a long shot as that particular part is always needed. It would be great luck if someone has it and will part with it.

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54 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

Really?  Salmon primer?  Neat.  Bit does it ever show anywhere once the bird is built?

Yes, in the rear wheel well area. It was applied in the wing wheel wells also but was painted over with the Lt. Gray underside color. With time and some weathering it would show through.

007-9.jpg

106.jpg

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1 hour ago, JohnB said:

Yes, in the rear wheel well area. It was applied in the wing wheel wells also but was painted over with the Lt. Gray underside color. With time and some weathering it would show through.

007-9.jpg

106.jpg

That's a cool picture!  I wonder how many would interpret that as rust...  lol

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1 hour ago, GazzaS said:

That's a cool picture!  I wonder how many would interpret that as rust...  lol

That could happen I suppose as it does kinda look like rust. Folks with adequate Corsair knowledge would know better. LOL

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To make it even with us, mere modeling mortals, and also considering you know the drill VERY well by now, I think you should challenge yourself for this build, John. I mean, build it blindfolded and with your right hand tied in your back … Dare 😉 ?

Hubert

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6 hours ago, HubertB said:

To make it even with us, mere modeling mortals, and also considering you know the drill VERY well by now, I think you should challenge yourself for this build, John. I mean, build it blindfolded and with your right hand tied in your back … Dare 😉 ?

Hubert

LOL Hubert. Yes, that would be quite the challenge. I think I'll pass on that though. LOL 🙃

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28 minutes ago, JohnB said:

I'm planning to use these decals but have no experience with them. Can someone enlighten me as to how well they work and what to do and what not to do. I appreciate your input.:)

F4U-1 decals.jpg

Here is how it works, John:  You have white paper on top.  You are supposed to remove it first.  But be careful.  Because sometimes your transfer film comes up with the white paper.  Then your decals are fit only for the bin.

Then dip your decal for 15-20 seconds in warm water.  Quickly swab the area with decal softener...  they use Mr. Mark Softer on the HGW videos.  Then place your decal like you normally would.

Wait for 8 hours....   No, I ain't kidding.

Then peel off the clear transfer film from the model.

Yer done. 

But here is the catch...   sometimes they fail.  If your finish has rough spots, they might not stick there.  They are not 100% reliable.

 

Good luck.

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8 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

Here is how it works, John:  You have white paper on top.  You are supposed to remove it first.  But be careful.  Because sometimes your transfer film comes up with the white paper.  Then your decals are fit only for the bin.

Then dip your decal for 15-20 seconds in warm water.  Quickly swab the area with decal softener...  they use Mr. Mark Softer on the HGW videos.  Then place your decal like you normally would.

Wait for 8 hours....   No, I ain't kidding.

Then peel off the clear transfer film from the model.

Yer done. 

But here is the catch...   sometimes they fail.  If your finish has rough spots, they might not stick there.  They are not 100% reliable.

 

Good luck.

Thanks for the input Gaz. Now I'm not too sure I want to use them as they sound like too much of a hassle. I'll still consider 'em but I have other "regular" decals I can use and not put up with all that rigmarole. Thanks again and Merry Christmas. :)

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