Members Mikester Posted January 12, 2014 Members Share Posted January 12, 2014 I'm trying to replicate the heavy paint chipping seen on the canopy of "Red 1". Laying down Mr. Color Aluminum over a base of Mr. Surfacer 1500, I applied Mr. Masking Sol on top of the aluminum mimicking the chipping pattern seen on the real thing. RLM 82 was applied over the top of that when the masking liquid was dry. The problem I'm having is when I removed the Mr. Masking Sol it's taking large areas of the surrounding (unmasked) paint with it, completely ruining the pattern that I tried to re-create. Any suggestions here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Mike, one of the guys that I know uses Marmite/Vegemite (Breakfast Toast Spread) to do stuff like that... Simple apply and paint and wash off under water and then allow the kit to dry over the next few days... On the side note.. If you are hungry you have something in arms reach to eat! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Fran Posted January 13, 2014 Administrators Share Posted January 13, 2014 You're pushing the masking sol. I had the problem with Humbtol Maskol... You just need to, how can i say, roll the mask with your finger after lifting a little part of it. If you roll with care the mask will no push the unmasked areas.... Have i made myself clear?? :s i really do not know how to explain any better... I can make a very very small video... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawman56 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Mike, I can't help you entirely, since I dry brush my chipping effects, but curious to know; are you certain the paint was fully cured? I've had similar issues when removing tape after masking off a pattern, and found either my basecoat wasn't fully cured, or I removed the tape at the wrong angle. Just bouncing some ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mikester Posted January 13, 2014 Author Members Share Posted January 13, 2014 Thanks for the input, guys. I may have not given the paint enough time to set up. Mr. Color dries pretty quickly but I did remove the mask fairly soon after the paint was applied. I don't think I can get Vegemite in Japan but maybe Vaseline might work? Should be easy to apply and just wipe off when it's done. You're pushing the masking sol. I had the problem with Humbtol Maskol... You just need to, how can i say, roll the mask with your finger after lifting a little part of it. If you roll with care the mask will no push the unmasked areas.... Have i made myself clear?? :s i really do not know how to explain any better... I can make a very very small video... Yeah that may have contributed as well, we'll see if I'm coordinated enough to pull that off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUY5Y Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 ahhhhhh Marmite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Vaseline could work... but I be worried if it leaves a residue behind... I can send you a Jar of Marmite with that Canopy if you want to try it? Its great on Toast too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Red Baron Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Use toothpaste - available in most countries and easy to work with. Just one thing though, most of that chipping (and a lot of the fading evident on the other JV44 airframes when photographed) probably happened after the airframe(s) was dumped / scrapped. You might want to town it down a notch if you want to make Red 1 as it operated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Nice idea about the Toothpaste Justin! Never thought of that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradG Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Why complicate things by slattering stuff on your model that I normally put on my toast? Just paint it green then use a good brush to paint on the large areas of paint chipping. You can make it as accurate as you want then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 unique tips, nice mmmm, I'm hungry, gonna have a snack, brush my teeth and back to bed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Red Baron Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 The good thing about toothpaste is that you can dry it with a hairdryer (gentle heat) and chip it around the edges to get quite a realistic effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators James H Posted January 13, 2014 Administrators Share Posted January 13, 2014 Here's mine Mike I sprayed with Alclad Airframe Aluminium and sprayed with Klear, then used a piece of foam and Mr Masking Sol Neo for masking the chips, then airbrushed the regular colour before rubbing the cured Neo from the model. Here's my WIP: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/367-focke-wulf-fw-190d-jv44/?hl=focke Here's my Finished Build: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/366-focke-wulf-fw-190d-jv44/?hl=focke 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpinestar Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 MIke, When I did my Spitfire I hand painted the bare metal on after the main paint coats had been applied. I found it easier to control the effect. I used slightly thinned silver, either Vallejo or Citadel - best for hand painting - and a very fine brush. I then went over the silver with a dark wash and powders till I thought it looked ok. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulster Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Yeah that may have contributed as well, we'll see if I'm coordinated enough to pull that off! Your not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mikester Posted January 14, 2014 Author Members Share Posted January 14, 2014 Great stuff guys, thanks! And Paul, your constant encouragement is a never ending source of inspiration for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulster Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Great stuff guys, thanks! And Paul, your constant encouragement is a never ending source of inspiration for me! It's what I live for sweety!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mikester Posted January 16, 2014 Author Members Share Posted January 16, 2014 I've used liquid frisket film (basically liquid latex suspended in an ammonia solution) with moderate success on a few projects. It's FANTASTIC at masking larger areas and comes up without issue (something I can't say for Maskol, etc). Only problem is that it can look too "clean". Next time out, I'm considering combining it with some chipping fluid. Also a note - Gunze paint tends to create a slight film that has a tendency to "tear" when masking solutions are removed. I've had better luck with Tamiya and even Model Master stuff in this regard. That's absolutely what I was getting, at this point Mr. Color RLM 82 is the only option though. I'm going to proceed with the toothpaste method, I changed my base color to Floquil Old Silver in the hopes that might be a little more durable as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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