Heavy paint chipping.

[Guest jimmydel]

I've just found the forum here and I'm enjoying browsing and all, but I'd like to get a little more involved and participate, so I'd like to add a WIP. I've fancied the Tamiya A6M5 for a long time now, but the thing that keeps me from doing one is that I'd like to do some moderate paint chipping...as Zeros were wont to do. I've just not found any technique that gives me the look I'm going for.

 

I'll link and example. I don't want to post someone else picture:

 

http://www.scaleworkshop.com/a6m5bc_1.htm

 

I'm suspecting the hairspray technique is the way to go. I've tried it on test subjects...but I just can't get this look. Tutorials? Links? Videos? Anything to help me out here?

[Timc]

The link you posted tells how the modeler achieved the look.  I would (and have) use the same method.   That A6M5 is not what I would consider an example of heavy paint chipping.  That A6M5 is more accurately chipped than some of the horrid examples I've seen on the internet where huge chunks of paint are missing from gigantic sections of the airframe.  There is an historical context that I will not delve into as it's beyond the scope of this post suffice to say that all Japanese aircraft didn't lose sheets of paint over a great majority of their surfaces.  However, the extent of paint chipping is a matter of personal taste and what I think is excessive may not be to another so find that zone with which you are happy and chip away. 

[Guest jimmydel]

I feel a little stupid now that you point out that he describes the technique. I pulled that image off of Google real quick for the sake of this post. I should have looked closer.

I do agree that I don't like it real heavy either. In fact that picture example is probably beyond where I would want to take it. I've tried Prismacolor pencils and dry-brushing..and even brush painting like armor guys do. I just haven't been able to get the natural look I want....which...for me...is what that model shows.

[Umlaufmotor]

That looks good in my eyes.
Many original pictures show a very poor paint quality on the Japanese aircraft.

I'm allways a friend from "aged" ore "used" look on the modells.

BUT,............................... the red line on the Wing on the Zero must also be shown exfoliated.

The red color was placed OVER the green paint.

When the green paint was chipped, then the red line can not remain visible on the bare metal.

 

Servus

Bertl

[Dave J]

Had a look at the AK Interactive range... They have some Chipping fluid that seems to work very well on AFV subjects and I have seen used on Aircraft too.

[Mikester]

The AK Interacive chipping fluid works well but if you're trying to replicate a specific pattern of chipping I don't think it's the way to go.  For moderate chipping I still prefer the salt method since it's easy to control the size and shape of the affected areas.

[Guest jimmydel]

Doogs, what I'm interested in in fact is more what you have done on your build around the panel edges on the tops of the wings and leading edges. Though it does look good on your build, I'm not sure I'd really want to go as big as the stuff you've done around the wing root and cockpit entrance.

 

Looks like I'll have to give liquid frisket and AK a try. Thanks everyone.

[BradG]

I've tried masking fluid over silver paint and although it gave me what I was after at the time, it's a real pain to remove (see the Ki-84). Since then, I will spray an enamal base and use Tamiya thinner, Windex or hot on cotton buds or paper towel to work back the top layer of paint; Gunze colours (Ki-44 and 61). I've found this is much easier to control, gives a nice edge to the chipping and wear but also if you screw up, just repaint and go again.

 

 

 

[Guest jimmydel]

Brad - I've noticed that not all friskets are created equal, and some are indeed nasty to remove.

 

This is the stuff I use, and it comes up super-easily. Just pry an edge with a toothpick, or "roll" it off with a finger.

 

 

Is this a Hobby Lobby acquisition?

[Guest jimmydel]

Great, thanks. I'll go try and get some.

[CruZz]

I can make more photos, when I will use AK heavy chipping on my B-25.

 

Pls wait a few days.

 

Here is my first try...

[JeroenPeters]

Hi Cruzz,

 

That is one sweet build!!

Looks superb to me.

Could you please post it in 'completed builds'?

[James H]

This work is superb.

 

Please can EVERYONE who has their own methods of creating this technique, post your hints and tips for us so we can build a catalogue of the best way to achieve this look?

[Guest jimmydel]

I can make more photos, when I will use AK heavy chipping on my B-25.

 

Pls wait a few days.

 

Here is my first try...

 

Wow

 

This is with AK? I watched a vid on YouTube of the MIg stuff...which gave a similar effect on the large areas...you also use it for the subtle flaking away of paint at panel joints?

[Paulster]

Awesome technic with great results.

[Mikester]

I think we have a few good techniques here, which one you choose will be driven by the result you want.  For the chipping on the canopy of my Dora I had a very specific pattern I want to replicate.  I laid out the larger areas with liquid mask and then used salt around the edges for a "jagged" effect.  I had some experience with paint chipping on aluminum surfaces in my Air Force days and it tended to come off very uneven and with sharp edges.

 

[JonathanReed]

EYE poppingly gorgeous!  Definitely use James advice on creating a book of knowledge of this technique. I always wanted to see how this was done. With the salt technique, its just water and salt "painted" on?

 

  

[Guest jimmydel]

Usually you wet the model and sprinkle salt in the places you want. You let that dry and then you can remove the salt from areas where you don't want it; inevitably you will get some in places you don't want.

 

I've also seen people make a paste by mixing salt and water and applying it with a brush.

[JonathanReed]

Simple enough!  I'm sure I can mess it up though Thank you!

[Guest jimmydel]

Yeah, the technique is relatively simple. The problem I've had is getting it to look something like what I want. I just never looks natural to me, but when I see others do it I like the way it looks. Go figure.

[Guest jimmydel]

Doogs, I was in Hobby Lobby and couldn't find the liquid frisket. I assumed it'd be around the normal paper kind, but I didn't see any, and of course, asking someone working there wasn't helpful...they could have just been out, or it was a store that doesn't stock it. Anyway, just wondering if you could give me an idea what it's close to at your store so I can look a little harder next time...?

[JonathanReed]

I went yesterday looking for it and ended up with ten other things and no frisket.  I am going back today to look again.

 

[Guest jimmydel]

Sure thing. It's on the "art aisle", the one with brushes, oil paints etc. If I recall it's near the inks and weird stuff (linseed oil and Japan dry and the like).

 

Thanks. I called myself looking. I may have missed it or they didn't have it in stock. At least I know now.

[One-Oh-Four]

Hi dflu78,

 

As is said earlier, the A6M didn't chip as much as other aircraft. Keep in mind that the Zero was in essence still a carrier-based aircraft, so the paint had to protect the aluminium from salt-water corrosion. Japanese Navy aircraft (when intended to be operated at/near sea) were generally well painted, complete with primers. Early camouflage Zeroes don't show (much) chipping at all. Japanese Army Air Force aircraft -especially when delivered in NMF- were more prone to heavy paint chipping, basically because the primer on the outer skin was lacking. It's mostly the field-applied camouflage you'd be looking for. The photos one can often see of U.S. military personnel posing in/by a Japanese aircraft can often be misleading too as it can easily be that the aircraft was a derelict and be standing in the sun for a couple of years. In Korea or China it wasn't uncommon to see abandoned aircraft in 1947/48, for example. So be careful which photos you use for documentation!

 

Cheers,

Erik.

[Guest jimmydel]

Erik, appreciate the info on that. Like I was saying, I don't really intend to go WAY overboard with chipping on any build. I was Just fishing for techniques on getting something that looks like the 190 I showed. I'm not interested in large scale wearing off of the paint; more looking to figure out how to get the random paint damage you see around access panels and the cockpit entrance.