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krow113

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Everything posted by krow113

  1. lol semi-decent effort to troll me but to no avail lol
  2. lol this doesn't even make sense! read what ernie has written and get over it lol
  3. lol my point was that the usual reaction ie: getting locked down , is in no fear of occurring here . I dont want to read all of those comments. Much nicer not to have it occur. Thank you.
  4. Depends on the year of vehicle too. Some trim is stainless steel , which would gold or bronze out from heat.
  5. A customer has asked for a decal for the fairing on his Harley. He wants the Eagle Head the Luftwaffe painted on FW 190's to cover the exhaust stains. Ya I know its a hobby suppliers logo too... I have no references for snub nose 190"s , does anyone have a good straight on shot or decal scan of this artwork?
  6. 'yoiur nicked me ol' beauty' lol Send me your stash and I'll show up in court for a character reference. lol
  7. You've made those leaps to judgement without any first hand knowledge of what has happened. That's the fun for me. lol
  8. So much for having a little fun.
  9. lol every other thread on all the other forums about this has been locked off. ...and here we are trying to figure out if China is red.
  10. lol and then there is how things really work...
  11. Its good thing there are plenty of other models to be building !
  12. I'll get one sooner or later. Factory bobbed fenders!
  13. https://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/SHOP/K803.html https://www.hiroboy.com/19_Crocker_HemiHead_1936_Small_Tank_Full_Detail_Multi_Media_Kit--product--16023.html Standard pricing for a MFH 1/9 bike.
  14. The nose art section of this kit went on sale on the Graveyard for $60 AM the other day. Peeps with space limitations could get their Lanc' on that way.
  15. H.B. ! Try not to flatline...
  16. Once you understand the qualities of the metal its easy to work with , soft or not. The soldering is cool , the sequence of events is slow enough for even the dimmest wit to follow. lol Also the jigging is a good idea for the frame at least. I applied flux with a tiny paint brush and there is no errant solder evident on the frame, it all got sucked into the joints. Jigging also allowed a pre-heat of the entire frame , ensuring the joints were hot enough through the seperate soldering procedures. I know you guys wanna see another pic...:
  17. lol A Gotha stalled. Tamiya Fat Boy stalled. Make a wip? I did the frame cuz I love them , I worked with the real thing in many various grades of condition , many times saving them from being hacked up. Soldering was done with , GASP , an open flame butane torch. Frame is jigged as we jigged the real thing (almost) stabilized and secured prior to the soldering. This because watching Knuckle builds I noticed an issue with the rear brake cross-over tube not being parallel to the surrounding areas. Sure enough it is a small amount out of line. This causes other parts positioning to become compromised. Soldering was easy after practise on runner bits. There is a series of events that occur and can be anticipated easily by the solderer. Once you have a handle on this series of events you can easily solder the work. The metal is also real soft , easily distorted. Looking at the parts and re-packing them is enough to bend it a small amount. Te jig shows rods for alignment , a rear axle plate spacer , pins to hold , popsicle sticks to space the frame up , an alignment rod with a point to check the steering head alignment , etc , etc. If the frame is out of whack , the whole bike will be out of whack and it will show!
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