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Everything posted by krow113

  1. lol ya gots to keep atap dribbling to avoid freeze up!
  2. Sometimes a fairly well 'tuned' airbrush can spray a wraith of decent chips. 1/24: Or just some chipping fluid: Tools are important too ,The Gotha engine panels were done with a conical circular brush.
  3. The only 1/48 mariner availabel. I'm open to trades or cash...
  4. Grind out the spurious lines. That would provide a spurious base to begin some less spurious detailing. A semi-decent compromise. Good luck!
  5. Anyone interested in this kit ? Esoteric. Expensive. Excellent shape with minimal warping and no broken parts. PM and we'll get into it.
  6. lol teeth on edge time good save! perhaps a little high end white glue in the decal solution could help adhesion
  7. arent many of those copies of allied engines of the time?
  8. Good score! ...so is there a G V kit out there with 2 lower wing sprues!? Bit of a F up! Sounds like a good outcome and a good company to deal with. I have a Hippo example, it looks like a lot of fun , then ya get to cover everything in decals! I like the markings on the camo decals too! Reference material is abundant for G V's , tons of camo to choose from as well as documented subjects. Not too many attempts at these kits ans other Gotha's , I regularly search forums for builds , but very , very few. WNW's gallery is a good site for G IV's , see what other guys have done. I am very interested in the prop finishing guide there in your pics any chance of posting an enlargemment?
  9. All I could add is physical suggestions. Secure the model some how , so you hands are free. Stabilize your forearms , lay them flat or somehow get them relaxed in a solid position. It takes 30-60 seconds to scribe that line, if ya gotta glue your arms to the table for that then ....what are you waiting for!
  10. All great models. Hubert wins so far! Here is Italeri's WW 2 Harley-Davidson as it would have looked after returning servicemen got through with them. Bobber '47
  11. Thanks Kman! Dimensions taken and mirrors cut from sign material. I used this pic to illustrate a property of the material , it can be dented , in this case on the left of the left mirror , this just with my fingernail: Using a sticky stick may be a better install tool.
  12. Just a quick word on the WNW landing gear comment. My Biff and A Gotha both surprised me , especially A Gotha , the landing gear is far more robust than it looks. I was very impressed with the fit and engineering.
  13. Thanks Hub! Thanks Doc! ...and whats up Doc!? No ' Too bad you cant see it" comments !? LOL!!
  14. Thanks GAz. A few more... These pics help me to see whats missing too. Like the pump handle ,a part lost almost right out of the gate Additions include lighting , map 'basket' , toggles and piping, and everything on the back , this piece will be removable for inspection. The piece is perhaps a cube 1.25" in size.
  15. Pushing on with smaller details , fuse wise , mirrors and windshield specifically. The windshield needs to be addressed early , earlier than I did as it is pretty much the worst fitting part in WNW history. It has an acute mounting angle , with tabs top and bottom as well as 2 mounting ...lumps... cant think of any other way to describe them. Fit it as soon as you start work on the instrument panel area. The mirrors were fitted by drilling the marked hole inside the ip box , and guessing where the lip mounted one goes. They are angled as I angle the mirrors on my Harley slightly upwards and to the outside. P/E bezels were used to replicate flanges for the left mirror and the windshield: Thanks for lookin".
  16. I was just reviewing the pics of the 152 and came across this one of the finished underside:
  17. No No stretch as the material is actually a metallic substance.
  18. Ask a sign guy for some chrome vinyl , can be cut on a plotter or punched out. The chrome on my Fat Boy Lo showed a flow line from the casting, I used the chrome vinyl to wrap the outside: Any sign shop should sell you a piece.
  19. Thanks Gaz. And like I say , if you wanna incinerate your p/e to the point of material compromise , watching as the material changes forever into a limp , smoking banana skin , then fill yer boots! Anyway here are some more fuse details , assembled and carded for paint: The upper left is the gunring 'door' , the ring , and the kit prop debris guards. I chose the kit p/e for the guards as the aftermarket set has proven to be almost useless , here are one of the a/m guard screens: Zero ref pic for the a/m screen , lots for the kit screen.
  20. Thanks harv. Gun ring detail goes in and the p/e ring itself plopped on for a look: Pretty nice p/e piece. I think someone said " annealing" in 2010 on a model forum , and thereafter many burgeoning modelers began melting the pi$$ outtta every scrap of p/e they could get their torch on. My metal work experience gives me a little more insight into metal bending . I did try annealing some p/e and was not happy with the result. I've never done it again and really dont see the need for it. Annealing can compromise the structure and worst of all you cant come back from it. Practice bending past your desired profile to see the metal come back to where you want it. I think in the toughest of profiles , with multiple bends or contours , maybe anneal but try the work with the metal prior to frying the living hell out of it.
  21. It appears that any deviation from tight business practice is resulting in closure during this engineered crisis. OBC management style , personal vindictiveness in the workplace and poor customer service ? GONE . GONE . GONE. Some real survivors gonna be showing up this year.
  22. Detail addditon continuation. Specifically the re-inforcement for the Becker cannon. Exterior detail was added from flat black vinyl cut on my sign cutter . The same for the interior re-inforcement details. Here is the cut vinyl: The rectangle to the right is the panel under the fuse that gets in the way of a good fuse joint , sand it off and apply the panel after. Details added with a beading set: Triple drybrush ; light grey , silver , and copper on the hardware heads: A diff procedure the vinyl is self adhesive and will be clear coated. After that we'll see how flexible it can be. These are to go inside the gun ring as support for the Becker install. There are ancillary issues to installing a Becker , these were prototype 20 mm cannons , there fore ongoing work would be done as the weapon was tested. Pics show 2 diff gun rings with diff details for the cannon install. Again mine are an amalgum of available details.
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