belugawhaleman

That's looking really NICE John😀

Nice work Rob 😀. I was thinking of building a LED lighted war of the worlds Martian Ship by Pegasus......I saw where a builder used polyester filler, as used in pillows, to diffuse the LED light. I also found, on Amazon, some "Noodle LED" lights. These are lEDs in a silicone strand. They look like neon light tubes only flexible. I bought some of these....they look cool😀

Some items today.........😀 From FusionFirm, some of their LIQUID CHROME paint. Saw a YOUTUBE video about this stuff...Looked promising. From DSPIAE; some drill bits, and screwdriver bits for recently purchased ORBIT drill. Some Glue Applicators Also a couple of palettes, and some circle stickers😀 I have to escape the habit of blotting my paint brushes on my workbench....So, the palettes. Also, the circles are for marking model sprues...more visibly. I hope to avoid the searching for the needed sprue. Lastly, From Gecko Models; Their PANZER JAGER II fur Pak 40 Sd.Kfz 131 (Early Production) In 1/16 Scale. (16GMOO10). A big Marder . The box is stuffed with plastic-----don't know the parts count, exactly, but Holy Moly!! Anyway, I hope someone finds this interesting or useful😀

Yes I also found that with new drill my usual usb c cord bottomed out before it was fully engaged. I kept getting angry saying; "Where's the indicator light' until I found the supplied cord worked and a little extra push was needed. Then i saw the light😀 (the indicator light) Glad to hear you sorted it out😀

Looks Great😀

Thanks 😀

Thanks, I'm pretty sure that I'll strip the chrome off the parts first, but I'd like to know if I can just go over the chrome. That might be a better plan.

Like the title says.....which chrome is best for airbrushing? I recently purchased a couple of large-scale kits that have chrome exhausts...they will have seams to clean up. I thought it best to strip the chrome and paint after dealing with the seams Any suggestions will be appreciated😀 Paul

Right now, this thing looks promising. I like how you can get the drill into position and then start it going unlike my grinder. I found that the clockwise button is easier to use than the more forward "on" button and direction can be changed easily. A variable speed option would be great, but that, I guess, would just complicate things. Bit changing is by a twist chuck like Dspiae's manual drill and Is relatively quick. Keep in mind, I haven't used the "Spin-Lock" bits yet, so I don't now the full story of this thing yet. We'll see if the regular bits slip or not. I do a lot of work on tiny engines, so I went for the screwdriver bit set. I'll see how useful that is when it comes. ** please note: I found it necessary to use the supplied charging cord. The C type USB cord I normally use could not be used because the tip wasn't long enough.....I don't know if this is case with all cords.... The longer tip is the supplied cord.

Got this today from Amazon...... From Dspiae, their ORBIT ELECTRIC DRILL (AT-EDO1). Meant to be used with their "Spin-Lock" bits. These bits have a pair of flats milled on the back end of their shanks that engage with a slot within the drill...to prevent slippage. I found that Dspiae's regular (3mm) shank drill bits work just fine. I did order some of the new bits and some screw driver bits and adapter. They haven't come yet. I also have an adapter, that I bought previously, to allow me to use drill bits with smaller shanks. The drill has controls that allow it to turn clockwise and counter clockwise and a lock so that it can be turned Manually This drill turns at a slower rate than the Dspiae grinder. This drill should be useful for easing the tedium of drilling Friulmodel tracks. It measures: 18x110 mm. I'm impressed by the quality of this product.The exterior is anodized aluminum and it is very well-made. I also picked up some Extra Thin (3 bottles) and some Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner (2 bottles).

Sorry to hear. A tough decision to make certainly. I mentioned my Mother's dog, Mikey in my last post. After 18 years Mom had to make the same decision. Mikey was very ill and suffering. Relieving that suffering was a merciful choice and the only correct course of action. I wish you the best in recovery from this sad event.

I wasn't aware of that, thanks...... I bought a bunch of bottles about a year ago. I used some recently on my Tamiya H39...worked well.

This just came....... From Das Werk, It's their Sd.Kfz. 250/3 Ausf.A in 1/16 scale (DW 16019). Much of this kit is newly tooled having new parts differing from their earlier 250/1 kit.. BTW Andy is having some kind of sale on 1/16th scale kits week, mentioning it in his last video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I68IBW1rDmc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=culNihSl57I https://www.scalemates.com/kits/das-werk-dw16019-sdkfz-250-3-ausf-a--1697765 I have both of Das Werk's 250 kits and their 251 half track. They all look like nice kits. The 251 looks to be more complicated. This kit has 5 decal choices and two figures; a driver and The Desert Fox himself.

Try Walthers Solvaset very strong decal softener. Works well on Tamiya decals.

I really don't do anything in 1/72......... Perhaps if some model manufacturer offered an aircraft carrier in 1/72 ? Now That would be impressive😀

Do these decals work with decal softener? I not familiar with the carbon fiber decals. Nice job BTW😀

Looks Great Rob😀

Very nice😀

I'm familiar with squirrel zoomies...It can get bad, but I never had that happen...... Yet.

Oh, this will be good😀 Will be following!

Nice haul Carl😀 Never heard of a Clear White paint before......What will you use it for?

Nice work so far😀 I remember building the Revell kit long ago. Now, if you really want to go big.....Obnoxiously big......you can build the Hobby boss version in 1/18 scale. Now wouldn't that be fun😀

Sad to hear Kevin. We went through the same with our dog Mikey a few years back and I know how bad it can be. So sorry.

Nice work Kevin😀

Nice job John😀