JohnB

Model Master was always my "go to" paint. Wish Testor's hadn't stopped production. At least we still have the small bottles of their enamels. I keep a stock of their OD.

Some of them are thin enough to use without thinning. You have to be careful spraying any of them as they will "burn" the plastic if over sprayed. A couple of light coats is the solution to that.

Thanks. I say get one and build it. They are nice kits with no real fit problems and a very low "cuss-factor".

Yes, they are pretty old but, surprisingly, still good. They all have a good "seal" on the lid that must be the reason.

Looks like the lacquer thinner works okay. Thanks guys for the help!!! 😀

Thanks!! 🙂

Thank you Kevin! I have some Tamiya lacquer thinner so I'll give it a try. 😀

Making some nice progress. Working on the wings now.

Would anyone have some Floquil diosol? I have a bunch of old Floquil paint but nothing to thin it with. I need some diosol or something else that will work. Thanks in advance.

Looks to be coming along well Peter. 🙂

Agreed and I might do that even though I've already mounted the prop assembly to the spinner. I did some checking in my 2 D&S books on the P-40's and it appears to me the pointy props were mainly on the B/C's and MAYBE some "E"'s but, as near as I could tell, the "E"'s seemed to have the slightly broader props. At any rate I'm going to stick with the broader setup. Thanks for the input. 🙂

Seems to always be some "issue" with which ever Windows we use.

Mo betta prop for sure Peter. 🙂

Thank you Kevin. I much prefer Windows 9 but have to stay with 10 to be able to keep tabs on my bank account. 🙃

I decided to replace the kit prop, which has slightly narrower and pointy blades, with blades from a Grey Matter prop set for the P-40 (the GM mounting piece had been lost at some point). I had to remove the kit props from the center mounting, drill out some mounting holes, then CA the replacement props in place. Not a huge difference but noticeable, at least to me. The one on the right, in case you find it hard to see the difference, is the modified piece. 🙂

Thanks Peter. OOB cockpit isn't too bad actually. Not replacing it with some after market stuff saves some $$$$. I'm still searching the internet for a photo editor app that I like. So far only Canon My Image Garden works but I'm still not satisfied. Frustrating.

It's coming along well Dennis. I hope it turns out like I envision it! I had to go to Windows 10 when my on line banking no longer worked with 9. If it wasn't for that I'd go back to 9 in a heartbeat!

I have his book too and, yep, he wasn't a big fan of the P-40. Especially against the Zero.

Thanks Chris! Sorry for the late reply, I didn't see your post until today!

Thanks! I do too!!!

I decided to build this P-40 to depict a P-40E flown in the defense of Darwin, Australia in 1942 when the Japanese were on a roll. It should be a good subject for weathering since the conditions there were pretty rough. No matter what I tried to do the Interior yellow/green just would not come up to the shade it should be in these photos. Please bear with me as my photo editing apps are different now from the one I used to have (lost it when I had to dump everything and re-start my computer. I DO NOT like Windows 10!)

Thanks Kevin, so do I. 😃

I have it pretty well disassembled (removed ordinance racks,puttied and sanded placement holes, prop, canopys, seats/armor backing, gun sight, etc. Now waiting for SB to send me a canopy mask set.) In the mean time I've started a Hasegawa 1/32 P-40E based at Darwin early in the war. I'll start a thread in a bit.

I'm glad you like it Carl, thanks. Just one of those little headaches.

Thank you Peter. I think it turned out okay. I hope the T-28 will work out fine.