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Posts posted by GazzaS
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I've just been invited to join MeWe by one of my Luftwaffe groups. Hopefully it'll get big. Because I'd like to get away from farcebook someday.
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8 hours ago, Peterpools said:
Gaz
Nice progress for sure. Your concern with the hard edge on the exhaust stain - looks as if one of the line mechanics, just did a little cleanup of the area.
As for the rudder: just use a darker shade of yellow to tone down the color in the recess.
As for shooting B&W photos:
Almost all digital cameras will allow you to set this up:
Go into your menu - should be in either shooting or setup menu. Then change the setting from standard to monochrome, that's B&W. I'm assuming you are shooting JPEG files, so your finished image will be a B&W.
Hope this helps
Keep 'em comin
Peter
Thank you, Peter! I will give it a try!
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Thank you, Rob!
The truest advantage of the oils is that you can use them and leave very little texture behind. I've made the mistake of 'stacking' acrylics before when what I wanted to do was blend them. So I won't go that route again.
As for pigments, I've just never really had any luck getting them to look the way I want.
I've always had a small fascination with the maschinenkrieger thing. Not enough to actually get involved... but they do look interesting.
Gaz
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56 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:
In my opinion the shades you created are spot on. They are visible, subtle and blend in excellent into the basic yellow. Fromme side I would keep it as it is.
Well done Gaz!Thank you, Kai.
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My first attempt at snow using the chipping method. I decanted some cheap hairspray into an old paint bottle and applied it with my airbrush.
I'm not happy about the over-spray.
They said to work in small areas.
Anyway... once I get it all on, I'm hoping that regular weathering effects will make it look more realistic.
Gaz
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Hello friends,
For a long time now I have been dreading, yet waiting with anticipation for this step of the weathering process. For a long time I have theorized on how one brings a three-dimensional object to life that is in one of the base colors. Because we deal so much with grays, greens and browns, I haven't given much consideration to yellow, red, and blue... though the WWI models have certainly been forcing this question to the forefront of my mind.
Obviously, you cannot use black, or gray to make a shadow in yellow. So, your only real option is to use warm colors like yellow and orange. In the first photo you can see how I've added oils to the rudder to brighten higher spots and darken lower areas on the rudder.
With the second photo, I've tried to apply those same rules to the yellow cowling beneath the engine.
The next task was to blend the colors so that the transition from bright yellow to yellow-orange is subtle. The third photo will show the finished rudder.
The fourth photo will show you the lower cowl after I realized that the armored oil-cooler ring would also cast a shadow.
I believe this is only round 1 working with the yellow parts. I think that tomorrow or later I'll need to do it again, this time introducing a tiny bit of white to the brightest yellow.
Your opinions will be greatly appreciated.
Happy modelling!
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Looking mighty fine, John!
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Well... after an hour of laying more panzer putty, I've a final painted result. I suffered a little paint lift in an area where I did no sanding. You can also see where the torn off brackets are.
I'm not overly sure I'll ever go through the process again. While it prevents over-spray, it also causes lines that don't look natural for something that would have been painted with a paint gun. I'm hoping a couple filters will soften and blend everything.
On this occasion I tried something I never did before: I thinned the SMS lacquer paint with Bunning's Diggers lacquer thinner in the purple can. Seemed to work alright.
I also painted most of the mantlet, gun, and bow freehand. That is because Panzer putty has no adhesive properties.
The two blurry photos are what photos look like when I don;t use the tripod.
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So... how do we go about setting up another social network?? I suppose the first answer would be money... and most of us just aren't that solvent.
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8 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
That looks awesome Gaz! Good decision to change and perfectly executed! Will be a stunning bird in the end! Love it!
Thank you, Kai! There is still a fair bit to do.
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whatever it is... a farce or whatever... is still the source of many historical photos. So it is still of use to me until somebody comes up with another one.
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7 minutes ago, Wumm said:
Have you recently on Facebook:
Shown a Swastika on a model kit, or liked a post where someone displayed one...
Used a swear word online...
This is me all over. I'm waiting for my ban.
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Hola Amigos y Amigas!
After some useful advice from LSM friends, I have made some changes to the paint. It cost me a lifted decal... but I was able to change the direction of peeling away the thrice de-tacked masking tape, and re-seat the decal.
The first two photos will show the black area added the the sides of the machine in a way hopefully very similar to what JG 26 did with their early FW's. The following three will show the exhaust streaking I have added in various shads of gray. Hopefully it looks quite like the photos discussed previously.
I need to figure out how to take B&W photos with the Wife's Canon Olympus.
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Very nicely done interior, John. That shade of green is mighty convincing!
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This build is crazy... but awesome all the same.
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47 minutes ago, Wumm said:
I basically think everyone is happy with just a little Beaver.
S
Ummm... yes. Nobody wants a big beaver, do they? Speaking of Big Beaver... Lemme show you a roadsign I saw a lot in my former life in America:
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Congratulations, Rob! Both machines look great. The size difference is quite amazing. I'm impressed that you would be able to build the little one, after completing the 1/32 version.
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6 hours ago, Martinnfb said:
Husky, really ? What bout a sled, canoe and maple syrup ? And a beaver, just to complete the stereotype
How big of a model do you want??
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Very nicely weathered pit, Kai! This is one more area I need to work on. I'm lazy when it comes to pits.
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Thank you, Carl! Yes, it's a Dragon one-piece barrel. It's about 14 scale inches shorter than the Tamiya two-piece barrel and looks a lot less chunky.
Gaz
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PCM Focke Wulf FW 190 A-1/A-2/A-3
in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
Posted
Thank you! I like that!