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GazzaS

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Everything posted by GazzaS

  1. Happy New year to you! Pretty quiet until the neighborhood fireworks woke me up, I get up at 3AM for my workday so staying up till midnight is just not possible. I made it until 10:30 last night.
  2. I just want a 1/1 scale clone of me to go to work for me and earn my wage. Then I can build more of the great models I have in my stash. C'mon modern medicine!
  3. Foil?
  4. Thank you, Phil!
  5. Thanks, Bill! I've already sent an e-mail to order from him... couldn't help myself and ordered 3 sets in total.
  6. Ooh... I've had real bad service from Creative. Ordered three times and had to ask for a refund twice as they claimed "It's not our fault what the supplier sends" after a six month wait. Looks like BNA is the only place in Aus that I can count on for AM.
  7. Recently I've decided that hand-sanding is obsolete. Time consuming. .And inefficient. So, I've been using a cheap electric toothbrush with double-sided foam tape to hold no-fil sand paper. It's improved the quality of my modelling time quite a bit. Have you seen the adds for Alien Tape? ...bear in mind I have no association with Global Shop Direct, or anyone who makes anything they sell. Anyway Alien Tape is a double sided, clear material that uses no adhesive and can be removed from anything but painted surfaces and porous substances like paper or drywall. When I first saw the commercial, I wondered what use it might have for modelling. After further pondering, I thought it might have a use for wet sanding when mated with my electric toothbrush, wet/dry paper, or micromesh. My tests show pretty positive results, especially with the wet/dry paper. The Alien tape would not become separated from either the toothbrush nor the paper despite repeated dunkings and over a half hour of wet sanding. With micromesh, I was able to sand for over half an hour without the micromesh and Alien tape separating. Eventually, though enough water seeped through the fibers of the cloth backing to cause separation. This bodes well for wet sanding with resin. I've been working hard to avoid resin dust by sanding while wearing a mask while outside. But it's rather inconvenient as mosquitoes love my blood, and the verandah isn't really set up to prevent me from losing small parts. Anyway... thought I'd share. Gaz
  8. Thanks, mate! Who is CMA? That quickboost set looks great! And they have it at Hannants. I've seen the S.O.W. set and was thinking about buying them once I organized a tailwheel. Hate ordering from the US, though. I'll do what must be done, though.
  9. This is most likely it.
  10. There is a historical anecdote I will share with you. I read a book by a pilot from JG 300. His name escapes me at the moment.... But later in the war, perhaps mid 44', they were losing aircraft so quickly that they gave up puttying and polishing at the airfield level.
  11. Thanks for the link, Smitty! It's a nice looking set... but I was really hoping to find the tailwheel and strut separate.
  12. They're both in 1/48. The first is the Meng Me-410. I filled in panel lines, but not access panel lines. Just like the one at that RAF museum. And this is the old Monogram Me-262: Still... I feel a little bit more is required for the larger scale. So, I'm not really sure where to go, yet.
  13. I'm not sure that I agree with that assessment. I mean... many Luftwaffe aircraft went to war with no visible panel lines. And I look at them a lot. I've even modeled a few. And they all got great reception, online. This is how I feel/theorize about panel lines and rivets.: IRL sometimes you can see them... sometimes you can't... especially at distance. This ephemeral characteristic, entirely dependent on the effects of light and distance is impossible to reproduce. Combine this with an aircraft that had it's panel lines filled, makes highlighting them rather unnecessary. So once again we are left with that question of reality vs. art.
  14. I understand what you're saying. But to go this route, I have to fill in the panel lines, too.
  15. No...it's not that! I'm looking for AM LG for my FW-190 A-1/3. I need all three struts. And a tailwheel. My PCM's gear just won't cut it. I've seen stuff from SAC, but that would be the last choice. I've seen stuff for F-8's and A-8's, but I think those were heavier models. Can anyone point me in the right direction, please? My search words just aren't finding what I need. Thanks! Gaz
  16. That's beautiful from stem to stern and everything in-between. Just awesome! Gaz
  17. My dilemma now is to rivet or not to rivet. I'm more inclined not to rivet. How's the surface on your A-8?
  18. If you ever find yourself inclined to build an early Nachtjager, these printed aerials by Gaspatch Models have been available for over a year.
  19. Thank you! I cannot really complain about the PCM plastic. It's not soft like the stuff you get on kits from Russia.
  20. Those engine parts look pretty amazing! I like that 3d printed parts are less brittle than resin. A lot of options have opened up with 3d printing that could only be done with metal before.
  21. Great looking Totenkopf! Bombs look great, too!
  22. Great job on the Pfalz Bill!
  23. It's a great one, Harv.
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