GazzaS

Very nice work, Guy! Damn... you make me feel like a modelling slacker.

I'm trying to think of a kit that my Granddaughter would love to build and paint. She's only 6 now and more interested in technology than models. I wonder if there is hope with a dragon line this? How tall is the dragon supposed to be?

You know what the biggest kick in the balls is? Mirage models... from Poland... makes models of the German Torpedoboots that got turned over to Poland after WWI. But of course, they make them in 1/400 scale. But your Zerstorer really has no place with WWI ships, either.

A long time ago... back in 2021 I thought I had a build of this ship, here. But I can't find it. Fortunately, it still exists over at TOS, with pictures that link to the database here. Here is where I left off: After that.... It fell into the land of forget. Forget because I couldn't find important details... Forget because of the PE... Forget because I read a book about the history of the HSF that wasn't so grand. There are other models to build... But I have other warships, too. Both with more parts and more PE than this kit. I was afraid that my ship-building mojo was gone... for good. So, I started watching Ron Calverly on youtube and looking at other warship builds.... And I started to feel the desire to complete this ship. One of the important piece of information missing was where the cables that operate the torpedo nets ran. They had to go to some kind of rotating mechanism like a winch or a capstan. But pictures were missing. There are hundreds of pictures of the Kaiser's ships while they carried torpedo nets. But I could never find one to help me from making a mess. Even builds on warship modelling forums were unclear. But finally I found this Kagero book about SMS Posen... one of the Nassau class. The artworks in the book took me where I needed to go. Here is an illustration from the book: All of those cables above have to go somewhere... And I will show you when I get them there... The arrows point to pulleys on the side of the ship. Since I don't have pulleys that small, I have used eyelets made by Bob's Buckles. But to complicate matters... Those cables have to go between the deck and the railings... so I can't add the cables without having the railings in place. Another one of those 'missing details' was just how those cables transition over the deck. Surely they wouldn't just lie across the top edge. No... there are more pulleys inside tiny square brackets... really tiny. We'll get to them later. Thanks for looking... only a few parts today. But a step in the right direction.

Thanks for the tip, John. I would have done it the same way as you had. Now, I'll be able to approach it differently.

Thanks mate! Glad to hear.

Oh no! I have the A8 kit. Is it really that bad?

title says it all... lemme know your thoughts, plz.

Thank you fellas. I really would love to do it in a wartime fit. The 20mm at the back replaced by a 37mm or 40mm gun with a large shield. Dual Mg 34's on each bridge wing. No mast. And I think a 20mm at the bow. I saw a 1/35 build of this early boat somewhere... but i don't know if it was a paper kit, or a plastic kit.

Five years is far too lenient. But here in Australia, you can only get 7 years for a bar-fight that ends up in a fatality. I hope the guy dies slowly and painfully.

Very well done, Guy! Like he said... the first pic is epic!

Great start, John. I didn't know Hasegawa made a 1/32 scale A7. This is two knock-out blows you've landed on me recently. Two Axis planes in a row!

Thank you, Rob. well... there are a fair few things out of scale, and I never measured anything. For instance, the bulkheads holding the eagles seem to be waist high in photos. But they're closer to elbow high on the guys here. Likewise with the railing stanchions. But you made me curious, so I measured them. In 1/1 scale the men would be 5'9"... or maybe a tiny bit taller if they were standing straight up with their heels together. So, I imagine the boat itself is out of scale in more ways than one. Europeans, especially post depression Europeans were often shorter and thinner than their better-fed American and Australian cousins.

Thank you, Kev. There'll be no kneecap chopping.

Thank you, Peter. I had to show them in macro at least once... so ppl understand that it's not a decal.

Thank you. The cigarette paper isn't from a pack of cigarettes... It's the kind you roll your own with. Or roll herb with...if that;s yor thang. Used to cost a dollar at your local shop. I have made bases without resin before... but this base isn't going to be the usual box of water with a boat in it. At least I hope it doesn't look like dog doodee.

I actually put it into google translate... but it gave me "lecher"

Glad you like them. I may have more.

Looks awesome, Peter. I like seeing your painting skills shine through.

Well done, John! A looker for sure!

HI Guys and Gals... do we have any gals watching? Anyway... during my club meet, I worked on the eagles. I took my pitch bowl and home-made tools and tapped three of them out. Not totally successfully... but enough for this scale and amount of commitment. The swastikas were impossible to make. I tired numerous times... From front and back. The material is too soft, and too thin. It needed to be thin to enable me to shape it to the bulkhead to which it is attached. I didn't have any brass polish either. And aluminum polish, the only kind I have, wasn't cutting it very fast. So, I just sanded them a bit with 12,000 grit to add some shine to the most raised parts. I'm nearing the end of the build. I finally attached rudders and screws. ...which, I think I edited out of each photo... oops So, anyway... After matte coating everything I filled all portholes and windows with micro crystal clear. You'll see through the photos that some haven't dried yet. Immediately before the aft gun platform is a small readout for the engine, I'm guessing. I used a decal from the ZM 109 kit. And I made the flag out of cigarette paper. It works a bit better in 1/350 scale because in that case you only make a one sided flag because the detail doesn't have to be that big. But in this scale, the swastika always has to turn clockwise. A single layer flag is then scrunched into a ball and then looks very natural on the yardarm. But because I needed two layers I had to glue them together... and gluing them takes away the ability for it to look more natural. What follows are just some gratuitous photos... I can't call it done. The upperworks are still only friction fitted and there are a few lines of rigging to do. Then there is that water base to bring it all together. And I still have to learn how to play with resins... Happy modelling!

Very nice progress, Carl... despite your 'helper'.

Looks so awesome, Chris!