ScottsGT

For the life of me, I cannot figure out why Paul didn’t design these vertical stabs with the rudders cast into place as one piece. Gaps too big, angles different, rudder too wide at the base. Looks like I’ll have a couple to three hours in each rudder making them look right.

I remember reading a tip Paul Fisher had put in his instructions for one of his kits I built some time back. Use white glue to fill minor wing gaps. But my gaps were so small the curved tip hobby syringes I had were just too big. So I just tried a medical syringe with an 18 gauge needle and it worked like a charm! Angles cut squirted glue right into the gap. Cleaned up using a cotton swab and spit.

If they were selling navel lint brushes, I might have done a group purchase for all of us.

Naa, spammer dug them up. I just deleted his post bump. That’s what caught my attention. A 10 yo thread resurfacing about paper towel lint.

Post deleted due to spam for pushing their paper towels.

Carl, you’re a genius! But that shipping though. 😱

Supplies and aftermarket is wide open for delivery!

But this just showed up from Taiwan. Looks like I can now jump back on the Phantom bandwagon with these and BiggTim’s early wingtips for the Revell Phantoms! Now if I could just get this resin albatross off my bench and in the display case I’d have it made!

Well I was supposed to be posting pics of the Master Models A-10 brass gun tips I ordered for my two kits. Of course our wonderful postal system seems to have an issue finding my package now. It hit our main distribution center Tuesday and I was supposed to get them yesterday. Tracking has it listed as “In Transit to Next Facility, Arriving Late” Last two times that happened they never showed.

Ok, rough cut in and primer done. Need to fine tune with Tamiya putty and recut the panel lines.

Believe it or not, we had a certain way of mixing up body filler as well to keep down air bubbles from forming. Air bubble in filler out in the hot sun is a disaster.

Tim, question. Why a pressure pot and not a vacuum chamber? Or do they both act the same way?

More Bondo to the rescue! There’s a cut out in the wing where on the bottom you epoxy on the lower half of the wheel well. On top you epoxy on the vertical stab. The two meet at the bottom rear. Unfortunately they don’t line up too good. And that’s the good side.

Carl, Thats one of those kits I keep looking at thinking I should buy, but then I ask myself will I really build it? I already have two choppers on the SOD. Do I need to add to it? Helo’s seem like a good idea to me, but I cannot seem to follow through. I have the highly sought after 1/48 Academy/MRC CH-53E in the stash and I’m afraid to break the seal thinking it too will wind up on the the SOD.

You want my early design Aerocraft brass leg? Once the new one arrives I’ll be glad to send it your way. I have no need for two of them.

Might throw the pressures off? I know I destroyed the pump in my 1990 F-250 by using off the shelf “Power steering fluid” from the auto parts store. All the seals went out and leaked everywhere. Once I figured it out, I sucked it all out with an oil pump, refilled with Type F ATF and ran it then pumped it again several times to flush the steering box then swapped the pump and old lines. I’d ask Ernie since he’s in the transmission business and a true Ford man. Shoot him a message.

Yea, I’m starting to feel that way myself. I forgot how much work is involved when I jumped on this one. Let’s just say the PTSD will have the Panther and fat face Skyraider sitting in the stash a bit longer. Oh, forgot about one. The PT-22 as well.

Taking shape!!

Interesting. I just opened the kit for the first time. When I placed the order , Sprue Bros had the HKM metal landing gear as an option. I passed since I had Ali’s brass nose gear. Went to Ali’s website and he was offering an updated nose gear and now he has mains. So I ordered them. Upon opening the new kit, I discovered that it now comes with the metal legs! Nose gear is still that half leg design you have to glue on. So glad I went with Ali’s gear.

It is a little grainy. First couple of primer coats get sucked right into it like a sponge. I just shot 3 coats and I’ll let it cure overnight and reprime it tomorrow. But some of that look is just the way the phone camera processed the odd color.

Sanded to shape leaving the tape in place using various grits of sanding sticks. Remove tape, use fine stick to sand to a finish. Recut panel line using tape as a guide. I use a combination of a very fine and coarse X-acto saws I’ve had for probably 36 years. Off to prime!

Carve to a close shape when it gets firm. In the body shop this is when we would take the “cheese grater “ to it to get close to the final contours.

Tape off at the panel line…. mix up a dab of Bondo…. And apply carefully.

Wing hole was an easy fix with the bondo. Tiny pinhole left I filled with Tamiya putty. I sanded all my putty and was doing a close inspection of my work where the front half of the fuselage meets the rear half at the bottom. It had a significant gap and I slowly over days filled it with Tamiya putty. Well I just noticed a tiny area that had a small crack. Picking at it with my X-acto, it turned into a big flake where the first layer of putty lifted because the primer under it didn’t stick. I’ve had several spots that the primer just didn’t want to bond until I sanded it throughly. I keep forgetting I’m working with resin sometimes.

He says designed around the Tamiya kit. But I have two Academy kits and they include parts for large or small intake. I’m hoping to use my Academy kit for this as well as the previous Viper scheme they had for the last few years.