rkranias

Engine/Cowling mount. Hasegawa to Planet. Cut the engine firewall from Hasegawa FW190D9. A little cleaning required. Spot glue firewall with acrylic for test fit. Looks good. Cowling flaps. Engine radiator. Cowling fit. Color me happy. CA glue firewall and let it cure till weekend.

Thanks Vivian. Am truly humbled to be acknowledged by my peers at NOVA IPMS. As you saw last night I was totally unaware of this, what a great surprise. Further, I am in great company with skilled modellers like you and will enjoy the camaraderie and fellowship playing with plastic airplanes.

The engine from the Hasegawa 190D9 donor kit shown with some slight modifications to accommodate the location of the turbo supercharger. The "double hose" wrapped in wire will be fed into the turbo supercharger near the front of scoop. This detail will be visible from the wheel well. Will give the engine some weathering before installation. Planet Model's engine/cowling detail (right) is weak compared with the Hasegawa part (left). My plan will be to surgically remove the Hasegawa firewall and mount the Planet Model firewall then use the Hasegawa engine/cowl/cowling flaps. Am taking the FICE approach on this part. BTW there will be several other FICE moments on this build. I often remind myself, "I control this build, this build is not controlling me."

Pit complete with exception of the shoulder harness, stick and straps on pedals. Pit is OOB using kit decals. Scratch built some knobs and lever. HGW used for belts. Hard to tell, after I gave the pit a matte varnish I hit each dial with a drop if Vallejo Still Water with good results.

Turbo Supercharger scoop is glued with medium CA using small styrene pieces to act as locator pins. An annoying truth with resin conversions/kits (at least the ones I have been working on) is no locator pins so its almost alignment by braille. Some cleaning and filling is certainly on the agenda. A piece of resin chipped and will be repaired after mounting to lower fuselage. A little test fit. From this point putty and fill should be minimal.

Cranking on bench time between prep for TKR surgery scheduled for 12 Feb. Speaking of surgery, a little cutting on lower wing to accommodate the turbo supercharger scoop. Shell ejector ports are plugged with scrap styrene. This aircraft was a test bed for a turbo supercharger and high altitude/pressurized pit. The FW190C-V18/U1 not armed so all gun ports and shell ejector ports were buttoned up. Photo-etch from the spares box fit nicely over the shell ejector ports.

If you are wanting to build Eric Hartmanns Bf109 in winter wash Consider this, the Hartmann winter wash Bf109 has been questioned whether its a G6 or G14. There are no clear photos that identify G6 or G14. A log entry 4 Feb 1945 indicates Hartmann is flying a G6. You know these guys did lots of field modifications, especially during the last few months of the war. Hartmann G6, February 1945 If you want to do a Hartmann winter wash I truly feel you will be accurate with a G6.

After trying several magnifiers including Dental Loupes I picked up the Opti-Visor, mine came with #7, x2.75 magnificaion, 6" focal. I got an extra lens plate #4, x2 magnification, 10" focal. I wear bifocal glasses and am basically blind without them. I used the #7 and was happy. Then I tried the #4 and the 10" working distance works well for me. The #4 stays on all the time. Color me happy.

Be sue you have at lease one extra set of lens plate. Mine came with #7, x2.75 magnificaion, 6" focal. I got an extra lens plate #4, x2 magnification, 10" focal. I wear bifocal glasses and am basically blind without them. I used the #7 and was happy. Then I tried the #4 and the 10" working distance works well for me. Airfix is coming out with a 1:24 scale Typhoon which looks incredible. There are also some nicely detailed 1/18 kits coming out. Good luck. If the flip lenses do not work, give OptiVisor a try. After trying several types of maginfiers including dental loupes I amm really happy with Opti-visor. Good luck.

I just sent you email!

better check that cough Erik!

Langley AFB Oceana NAS Tour How long will you be staying in VA/US?

I have this in my stash and am watching with great interest. Really nice work on the Pit and Wheel Well.

Nick - the reason for making Bazookas is I am not happy with the solid ends of the tubes. Photos clearly show the tube ends are open. Not sure on the length issue. Geeze, now you gone and stirred the pot! Hare are some of my reference pics. Now I may have to do some measuring.

MORE BOMBS Bombs for "Slick Chick" painted OD. Texture is hard to see in this pic, but I am happy with results. Yeah, more dust! Not sure if yellow ID stripes will be added. BAZOOKAS The bazookas are from a Trumpy P47N. Using flat lead wire (UMM-USA FLW103 Flat Lead Wires 1.0 X 0.3mm) and rivet tool I enhanced the detail on the tubes. The difference is markable. The painted bazooka (black then OD) shows good detail otherwise lost. After taking a long look at these I just was not happy. The lead wire certainly enhanced the M10 Bazookas. However, a closer look these were just a solid piece of plastic in the shape of tubes. That said, I'm going to scratch build the M10 bazookas. Using styrene tube 4.8mm dia I cut 6 tubes to size and glued with Tamiya Thin Cement. With a Dremel shaping bit I carefully thinned the walls of each tube. The set on the left had the walls thinned while the set on the right is on deck for some thin wall treatment.

ORDINANCE PLEASE Taking the kit supplied bombs and giving them the Eduard PE Treatment. Will also mount bazookas borrowed from my Trumpy P47N. 500lb GP bomb. Left - out of box kit bomb. Right - PE (brass) fins and front/rear fuse added, also painted with Mr Surfacer 500 then stippled with short brush for texture... Fuse detail. Left - brass PE fuse added. Right - bomb is kit Out Of Box. Rear view with new fins and fuse, the fin is one piece folded over a dozen times... Detail is much improved... Textured surface (left bomb) will show up better when painted.

Hasegawa's 1:32 P47D "Slick Chick" 368FG/395FS. Slick Chick will get plenty of love with AM belts/wheels/blast tubes/bombs and some scratch build action on IP/gunsight/ignition wires and M10 bazookas. I started this as a double build last March. Slick Chick took a back seat to the Russian Jug (WIP and Finished) as I wanted to figure out the M10 Bazooka build. Just was not happy with the bazookas I raided from my Trumpy P47N. I have found a build solution for the M10's so here we go. Some images will look familiar from the Double Jug thread, enjoy. Aftermarket items include: Eduard Belts for Slick Chick Barracuda Wheel set Hasegawa brass Blast Tubes Kits World decals for Slick Chick I put "Slick Chick" in the bin to work on the Revell Bf109G6 late August. Now she's on the prowl and is looking for a party. Follow these threads and catch up on "Slick Chick" WIP. General fit seems pretty good with no issues projected on seams, wing roots...however ENGINE MOUNTS During test fit a glaring issue was the poor fit of the cowling. Basically it is the complete engine/cowling fitting on the fuselage mount. off by about 1mm THE PIT Pit is OOB with exception of Eduard PE Belts. Multiple passes of setting solution needed to get the IP decal to settle. FIXING HIDEOUS Replacing the really thick hideous gunsight.. Cut from 0.13mm clear styrene, scored then folded. Color me happy. Paint crash pad and all done. THE DOCTOR IS IN carefully removing the engine mount after fuselage is glued and cured, the one piece canopy (I'm using the two piece option for both final builds) is very handy to protect the pit during surgery... using 1.6mm styrene angle 3 pieces are cut and glued, port and starboard sides are easy to position however, the critical bottom piece is dropped 1mm. initial test fit (with complete engine parts) shows an acceptable fit... a final test fit of engine mount then... add a .05mm styrene card placed to recapture space lost from the "saw off" and give the repositioned engine mount some glue area... engine mount positioned and glued... styrene card shows "saw off" recovery... and the final fit is good...

Fuselage, Pit and other stuff. Mending the fuselage started with the front end. Black primer applied and front glued. Will hit the pit and tail wheel area with RLM 66 then secure the rear fuselage. Tail wheel is EagleParts 52-32. Strut is kinda squirrley to put together. Looks nice and will benefit with RLM 02 and some highlights (wash). Using kit pit and IP only after market will be HGW belts and some scratch built levers and knobs. Just too many issues with fit so I chickened out with the PE upgrade. The PE upgrade makes the pit flimsy. Works well with the Hasegawa fuselage however this resin fuselage with no mounting points. OOB pit is solid and very beefy and will add strength to the fuselage which I already snapped in half. This resin is really brittle. After a long cure time with front end and RLM 66 paint. I will finish pit then complete the fuselage.

great work on the camo!

you need 2 P-47's or Tiffy swooping in for some target practice. this is gonna be a great build. I have the armoured train with some rolling stock. when my skill-sets improve there will be a dio in my future. watching this one.

really nice scratch work on this. learning, learning....

very nice rendering. weathering is well done.

yes Matt. It is a clean break and i am close to closing up the fuselage. I have closed up the front half and will work on the real section in a few days after allowing the CA to cure.

I am chill to that tip. Thanks Steve and welcome to the forum!

Decals did come with the Mistel 2 conversion. You get decals for the Ju88 Mistel 2 and Fw190. You also get decals for a Ju88 G1.