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BlrwestSiR

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Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. Well, I took the tape and clamps off this afternoon. There's definitely going to a bit of filler needed. Especially on the underside. Could've been worse I guess. I'm going to let it set up a bit more and tackle the seams in a day or so.
  2. Thanks guys! Definitely get the turrets if you decide to get this kit. Hit a milestone and a bit of a rock too in the build. I added the remaining nose weight to the fuselage. Then I noticed that I hadn't glued the cockpit floor to the fuselage. So the Liquid Gravity not only started to leak out but also jammed in the gap between the floor and the fuselage. Which meant the fuselage no longer closed up... So after some grinding of the fuselage interior, thankfully where it won't be seen, I got the two halves together. At least on the topside... As you can probably tell by the size of that clamp, I'm not getting it any closer. Thankfully the nose section meets or I'd have a really problem with the canopy and nose glass.
  3. Heresy!!! The pilot's name is Hikaro Ichijo and it's called Macross, not that abomination that was sold to us as Robotech by Harmony Gold. Otherwise it's a nice looking model. I wonder if the 1/60 scale was picked to go with the Yamato/Arcadia figures. MAcross: Do you Remember Love is still my favourite anime film. Carl
  4. Cool! I see it's got cameras in the conversion as the old Alley Cat set didn't.
  5. Some Macross goodies. I figured they were like a 4 in 1 kit where you picked which option you wanted but nope. There's one of each version in the box so 8 in total.
  6. Looking at the instructions, it seems to be a very simple conversion too. Not a lot of cutting to do.
  7. Peter, the kit turrets are split through the middle, clear section. The early ones were also completely frosted. I got the revised ones in kit but they still have that large seam and locator pins on them. The Cold War Studio nose is on the right and the tail one is on the left. Both are one piece so don't have that join line or the locator pins. Otherwise they're a copy of the kit turrets with the same details.
  8. Peter, I have no idea to be honest. I was looking at building a new display case using a pair of Ikea Detolf cases for the glass but I don't think it'll be big enough.
  9. In getting the fuselage halves ready to join up, I decided to check the fit of the turrets. Turns out you need to have the base mounted in the fuselage but can leave the turrets for after. Speaking of the turrets, here's a comparison of the Cold War Studio ones compared to the kit ones. The nose turret: The tail turret: Definitely a must buy for the kit.
  10. Well, it's big.... Just decided to mock it up and see what I'm getting myself into. Oh boy.
  11. Nice progress on the tankette there Rob. Not a bad idea to pause on the Arado and do something less involved. I think that's a Cavalier Mustang. Which would be the only reason for me to get another P-51.
  12. Nice start John. That cast metal look on the turret does look good. Carl
  13. Ernie, glad to hear you're back and that things are mostly on the upswing. It's sad to hear about your mom though. There's been too much news about long term 'care' homes here in Canada and their lack of oversight and accountability. It is quite disappointing and shocking. Carl
  14. Guess I'm a heathen for having cut up three Tamiya Spits so far.
  15. Shirking some family responsibilities, I got the nose gear leg done. Because I glued a couple parts out of order (shoulda followed the instructions) I had to attach the links to the bay first. Then the leg itself. With that done, I decided to start gluing the interior into the uh, interior. I'm using the clamp to keep things a tight fit.
  16. Peter, I wish they had too. Maybe made the cockpit floor from zinc like Tamiya did in their 1/48 He219. Anyways, I've made a false bulkheads in the nose gear bay and filled it with lead weights. I then filled the voids with Liquid Gravity. I'm not sure on the total weight but I'm hoping it's about 1/3 of what I need. I should be able to get the same amount into the other side.
  17. Thanks Peter. The instructions say 300g of weight and point at the nose. I've not been able to find enough space for that much weight so I've made some false bulkheads to fill it in. Carl
  18. For someone who says they don't do armour, that Sherman and base looks really good. Hope you change your mind and take a crack at the Sherman. As for the tracks, since the Sherman's have live tracks that are under tension, the rubber band style won't be that noticable. Saggy track like on a Tiger would be more obvious. Carl
  19. Thanks for checking in folks. Healthwise, I've got a follow-up appointment with my cardiologist for early Dec. Dog wise, Zoe is closer to her old self with the odd stumble when she walks and her head is more or less cocked to one side all the time now. We finally met the new puppy and get to take him/her home in around two weeks. Still haven't decided on which one we're taking. Back to modelling, I've gotten a bit more of the interior done. I've been trying to get as much weight into the nose area as possible to prevent having a tail sitter. I've filled some of the boxes that go in the front of the plane with Liquid Gravity. Not much but I figure every bit helps. I continued the assembly of the bombs. I masked off the yellow and hit them with some olive drab. I then added the fins and did some touch ups. Finally I I installed them in the bomb bay. One thing that needs to be done before closing up the fuselage is the nose gear. I have the Aerocraft brass inserts so cleaned those up a bit. On the MLG legs, the tie down loops are cast solid so I drilled them out. You can see the first one I did in front . Then I started adding the kit parts to the inserts. The fit isn't perfect and needs a bit of tweaking. That's where I am at the moment. Carl
  20. Peter, thanks for the step by step and the comparison of techniques. I've always gotten mixed results with decals so this will help take some guesswork out of it. Carl
  21. John, the tracks aren't that bad. They include a jig to help you get them together. I generally only used the bottom part of the jig and didn't bother with the upper half. I put a small drip of Tamiya Extra Thin in the locating hole on part F3 and then press F6 into place. Once you get started, you fall into a rhythm building them. One thing to remember. Leave F2 on the small runners until after you have the pads joined together. Hope that helps. Carl
  22. Can't wait to see how the Red Fox details work as well. Nice start to the build. Carl
  23. Thanks for sharing the pics Dennis. That Lib very inspiring. Carl
  24. Great pics Martin. I'll get back to it soon enough. Just plugging away at the Lib. Carl
  25. You could do it as a Whiffer?
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