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BlrwestSiR

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Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. BlrwestSiR
    I'm looking forward to this as well. I asked the shop where I've gotten Fly kits fr in the past and he's hoping to get them in soon. He may hold off a bit to try and get a better price on them which sounds perfectly fine to me. Carl
  2. BlrwestSiR
    Peter, Jumping around certainly had kept me moving forward on the build. It's also let me put off just how much work I want to do on the cockpit. As for the retraction locks, my understanding is that they're a postwar fit primarily used to keep the gear on static aircraft from collapsing. I checked some pics of the CWHM Lanc and couldn't see them in any of the images I have. Carl
  3. BlrwestSiR
    I'm not really building this kit in any sort of logical order. Sort of a "what do I feel like working on today" approach. Case in point I decided to work on the MLG legs. Here's one pair of legs stock. I had read that HK included the gear retraction locks and these need to be removed. They're the short bar between the two full length struts. I duly proceeded to remove them. At the same time I decided to redo the small struts on either side of the hinge. The one in front has had the retraction lock cut off and I've refined the hinge a bit. Here it is with replacement rods in place. Overall it's a straightforward fix. Except I have to repeat it three more times. Carl
  4. BlrwestSiR
    A quick update on the engines and nacelles. I collected all the required engine parts. This is for all four engines with two assembled in the background. I then painted the nacelles and assembled those. I decided to do the basic engine block as it holds the rad securely and I don't have to worry about it shifting. So a bit of overkill but day enough. You can definitely leave them out if desired as I mentioned previously. I also ordered the recent book by Richard Alexander on the Lancaster as it's been highly recommended. Carl
  5. BlrwestSiR
    Some good news. Thanks to Martin and the email address he provided I was able to order a replacement canopy. So hopefully that's on its way shortly and I'll be able to get back to the build. Carl
  6. BlrwestSiR
    Rog, looks like you cleaned out the hobby shop. Again. Carl
  7. BlrwestSiR
    The important question is will they include decals for Starscream from Transformers?
  8. BlrwestSiR
    Guess they needed something to replace the nose mounted cannon. Great looking prop. Carl
  9. BlrwestSiR
    Gary, your figures look great. The one you've reworked to give him a more natural pose is something I've never gotten a handle on. Carl
  10. BlrwestSiR
    There's an online shop out of Vancouver that has great prices on Fly and Special Hobby kits (especially since they're in $CAD) so I'll probably wait for them to get the kits in. Carl
  11. BlrwestSiR
    You don't. You can just glue the reduction gear housing to the inside of the backplate. There's also blanking plates for the exhaust ports, they're just not mentioned in the instructions.
  12. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Phil and Peter. For the quick work on the nacelle, it really is a huge improvement. I decided to mock up an engine and see just how much would be visible through the opening. I put the basic engine block, rad and mount together. Inserted into the taped together cowl: From the front, the rad fills the entire opening. At the rear, you can see the rad as well. Looking up, it's really hard to make out anything short of using a flashlight and shining it in there. You can however, see the engine from the exhaust ports. There is an optional blanking panel I may use instead if I want to really simplify things for myself.
  13. BlrwestSiR
    Looks amazing. A couple questions Ernie. 1)- is the roof electric or pneumatic? 2)- what are you going to be dispensing through the gas pumps? Your famous moonshine? Carl
  14. BlrwestSiR
    I got the fit of the inner flap corrected sand it now sits flush. Neither one is glued in the pic. I then took a look at the nacelles and how they would fit to the wing. At this point I noticed the rad vent on the underside of the nacelle. The rear is moulded solid instead of being open. As well, the door sit on top of the nacelle and not in it. I decided to improve this a bit by cutting out the opening in the nacelle. I scribed it first. Then cut it using a razor saw. The opening was slightly undersized so I could sand it to the correct dimensions. Finally I thinned the edges of the door and fitted it in place. This took me about 20 minutes. I just have 3 more to do. One other thing though is I had planned to leave out the engines but they're now visible from below so I'm going to have at least do a partial engine inside the nacelles. So much for trying to keep it simple. Carl
  15. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Gary! The seat is definitely a huge improvement. I hear you about wingtips. Mind you the Tamiya Spitfire ones have been a good fit.
  16. BlrwestSiR
    I decided to work on the main wing. There's a couple fit issues that have pointed out and j thought I should take care of them. The big one is the wing tip. The fit is a bit off so I used a spacer inside the wing to make it match the wingtip. That expanded the wing enough to get a much better fit. I ended up only needing a quick sanding to make things flush. I added the rest of the internal structure to the wing and that stiffens up significantly. The landing flaps I'm going to do in the up position. The fit is a bit proud of the surface. You can see this on the inner flap. I've shaved the outer one a but and it's flush now. Just need to do the same to the inner one.
  17. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Peter! I've been going through the Tweak list on here for pitfalls and errors to watch out for. Nigel contributed a fair bit to that. There's a lot of great stuff in there. That being said, I don't think I'm going to correct too many of them (eg - the pilot's platform). I don't think I want to get bogged down on the build or it may never get finished. That already happened on my B-25s. If I do decide to go all in on a Lanc, I still have another one in the stash.
  18. BlrwestSiR
    My favourite jet! Nicely done and great recovery on the markings change. I've had some trouble with Zotz decals in the past as well and have the same Miss Molly sheet in the stash. Carl
  19. BlrwestSiR
    Good news. I found one of the Resin2Detail seats. Slowly trimming away all the supports. The detail is fantastic.
  20. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Kai! I've got the same book. I was lucky enough to get it when it first came out. They're not easy to find and is definitely an great reference. I've only removed the pin marks under the Upkeep mine as that area seems to be still visible.
  21. BlrwestSiR
    So after actually reading the instructions instead of just looking at some pretty pictures, I started on fitting the front spotlight mount. It was fairly straightforward and needed a slight bit of sanding to drop into place. Next up, I started on removing all the ejector pin marks on the bomb bay roof. Fortunately I had a chisel that was the same width as the slots so that made it much easier and faster. Next up is slotting the cable run in the appropriate spots as indicated in the conversion instructions.
  22. BlrwestSiR
    Actually Phil, I'm missing quite a bit. Literally. I have two of the Resin2Detail pilot's seats and can't find either one. So here's what I will be using on this build: - Iconicair conversion set - Barracuda cast resin wheels - Master brass MG barrels - DN canopy masks and custom masks for AJ-K - Kits world seatbelts. - Eduard PE rad screens I do have both Eduard Big Ed sets but I'm leaving those for my other Lancaster and I haven't decided if I'll use the Airscale PE instrument panel on this one.
  23. BlrwestSiR
    Another racer. That's awesome John. I was wondering about the fuselage extension. Is that a bit of AM or something you made? Carl
  24. BlrwestSiR
    Nice! All we have is a skinny tower in the middle of the city.
  25. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks! This is only the second model I've used it on. The first was my Bronco Type XXIII U-boat. I had some paint lifting on that one so we'll see if that happens again. As for spraying, it goes on fairly well with decent coverage. I used a few drops of their catalyst but otherwise didn't thin it. I haven't tried brush painting it yet so can't say how well it does there.
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