Landlubber Mike

I have to say I was a bit shocked myself Peter! I had heard that the fuselage halves in particular had a lot of pin marks, but I really cringed when I opened mine up. I mostly used these chisels from UMM to get into the small spaces to clean them up. First a few passes with the chisel, then added a bit of Tamiya filler, then used a combination of the chisel and sanding sticks/folded sandpaper to finalize them. The chisels made the job much, much easier than it could have been getting into those small spaces. If I didn't have them, I probably wouldn't have bothered with filling them.

I was originally thinking about modeling mine in a water scene as well, but once I found the catapult and later added the 1/700 Albatros, I think that idea went out the window. I have other boat planes that I can model in a water scene, so I can scratch that itch in another build. The SH kit looks nice - maybe a bit fewer parts than the Airfix kit, but those resin and PE details look really great. There's a ton of parts in the Airfix kit as you know, which was a bit surprising to me given how small the model actually is.

Thanks Peter, really appreciate it! I'll probably do the 239 alongside the Walrus GB, but I want to make sure that I get finished with the GB in time as spring usually gets pretty busy for me with kid activities, work, yard stuff, etc. But, with the 1/48 under my belt and really no aftermarket except plug and play pieces, it should be a fairly quick build. The hardest thing for me will be the camo scheme, as it's considerably more complicated than anything I've done to date.

It really looks great when it goes down well. The rattle can versions go down really well too - I found the nozzles are much better than the Tamiya rattle cans which have a tendency to spit in my experience. I thought going to the bottled version would give me more control, but after the spider webbing on this build, I used the rattle can on my Buffalo. Just for clarification, I don't spray on the model at 40-60 PSI. Because the clear seems to immediately gum up the airbrush, I found that getting it going through the airbrush at that high PSI at least pushes out some of the clear and thinner, and probably I was getting a coating of thinner in the nozzle, etc. leading to an easier time spraying at 20 PSI. I found that the longer I sprayed, the better the clear sprayed out of it, so the higher PSI just helps get to that point a little sooner. Thinking out loud, I wonder if you run the thinner through the airbrush first, then run the thinner/clear mix after, if that would help prime things better? Maybe I'll try that next time.

If you can't find the figures you want, you can always try making your own? They have heads you can by so you don't have to worry about sculpting the faces (I think Ultracast sold packs of them). Bodies you can make yourself using clay, etc. Lot of work for sure, but might be an option if all else fails.

Thanks Mike, Rob and PW! Really appreciate it! @DocRob, I always picture the Buffalo as a bulldog, especially with the stout body and landing gear stance. Not fancy looking at all, but ready to rumble.

Thanks Rob, really appreciate it! I think I was using GX100 (probably same one you are talking about). I find you have to really thin it, like 2-3:1 thinner to clear, or it gums up the airbrush immediately. Even then, it sprayed a lot better if I first shot the clear out the airbrush at 40-60 PSI almost to prime the nozzle, and then shot it around 20 PSI. I don't know why I got the spider webbing, except that I might have sprayed too much in a few spots. I'm always very careful in letting underlying paints dry at least 24 hours before clear coating. It also happened with the rattle can, which I tried spraying over to see if it would reset the clear, but it exacerbated things. I'm just glad I was able to remedy things in the end. One interesting result that I found was that in lightly sanding off the clear, those spots were a tough lighter than the surrounding paint. I've never tried sanding before as a weathering technique, but it might be another arrow for the quiver.

Rob, when you get to yours, let me know if you need pictures of what you can actually see inside. My guess is I could have just used the scrapers I have from UMM or even left them be, as I heard from @Clunkmeister that the 1/32 HpH kit (which I also have) has a ton of interior details that just aren't visible. It was a couple hours of work that probably could have been better spent elsewhere. Ejector marks are usually a pain, but here 10x harder given that they are inside very tight areas!! Good practice learning how to address them I guess. I'm curious what the Special Hobby kit is like. I see SH is releasing the Sea Otter, which is the successor to the Walrus in 1/72. If I didn't have the HpH kit, I'd consider getting the SH kit. For the engine, I picked up the Vector engine set 48118 (Pegasus engine I believe), which I think is specifically designed with the Walrus in mind. Given how prominent the engine is on this plane, I figured I'd try an upgraded engine. I haven't used Vector before, but heard good things. Good questions PW! It is what it is I guess. I am hoping this isn't a sign of things to come. I don't recall seeing this on the other sprues, but who knows. Thanks very much for the pictures! It is a cool looking plane, in an odd looking way. I tend to like quirky though. Thanks for looking in and again for the pics!

Nice! I love the Buffalo in the yellow wings scheme. When I first got the kit, I was thinking I'd just paint it as a yellow wings, but then realized that the conversion would take too much effort. Different nose lengths, bottom windows, etc. Looking forward to your build! Thanks Harv, really appreciate it!

Thanks guys! The figures are a nice touch I think. I used figures from this set. Word of warning though - the figures that come in the box look nothing like these figures! Different positions, no hats, no toolbox, etc. @JohnB, I love the Atlantic scheme too. Once the GB is done, I have two Accurate Miniatures Avenger kits that I'm going to build, and one of which will be a sub hunter in the Atlantic camo scheme.

Wow, nicely done Ernie. Great paint job!

Good luck with that - should be really cool!

Next up for me alongside the group build - the Special Hobby 1/32 239 Buffalo Finnish version with some goodies. My first official LSM, so maybe I'll post a separate build log, unless you guys want to keep them consolidated here.

And here is the finished diorama. Figure from Aerobonus, oil drums, ladder and wheel chocks from Brengun. Thanks for looking in!

Hey guys, I finished this one. Here are the completed pictures of the 339-23 originally given to the Australians, then went to the Americans. I even found a picture of the real one. Must have been scary looking down! Big window in the floor of the fuselage!

Finally finished with this one. Probably a bit steep on the difficulty level given that it is my fifth plastic plane model, but I'm quite happy with how it came out. Given that the engine and other panels were removed, I tried to model it as maintenance work on a hangar deck of an aircraft carrier. Couldn't find good color pictures of what the deck looked like, but some of the pictures showed what appeared to be larger squares that were dark gray and/or metallic in color, so I went that route. Just wanted to thank everyone for the help on this build, I really appreciate it. Thanks! Here are the pictures.

I'm just about done with my Wildcat and Buffalo builds, but have been putting in a little time on the Walrus. Spent one evening soaking all the sets, and then over the last few days, started with the fuselage (or is it a hull if it's a boat plane?). It's a little smaller than I would have expected - maybe a touch longer than the Wildcat and Buffalo I'm building in the same scale. The kit's parts seem very sharp and well defined with lots of detail. The one crazy thing is that the bottom and side pieces have a ridiculous amount of ejector pin marks! I don't think you can see much of the inside of the model when it's buttoned up, but I went ahead and sanded and filled them. Here's a picture showing all the pock marks! I have the Eduard sets for this kits, and have been slowly putting together the many PE details that will likely not be seen. But, I figure it's practice and in some ways, therapeutic to get in the groove and put together the micro assemblies - except of course when a part pings off the tweezers. Thanks for looking in!

Looking really great Kevin! Very nice build!

Great start Martin! Those QB items look like fantastic improvements. Looking forward to seeing this come along!

Wow Chris, just saw that you finished this. Really nice job man!! Looks fantastic!

Looks absolutely fantastic Peter!! Good luck tomorrow my friend.

This thing looks really amazing. I'm a sucker for odd aircraft too. Size wise, I guess it would be like building and storing one of those remote control flying planes that people build. I wonder how the sales of their 1/48 Do-X went - another big one. I'd probably consider a 1/72 or even 1/144 version of this beastie.

Thanks Rob - I think I have that exact same jig so will try that out. Great job! I'm also not a big fan of thin CA - I use it only sparingly in limited situations because it runs so much, and even then, I use an applicator to do so. I find medium CA better for my purposes. Also, the thin stuff I have from Starbond smells so much more than the medium Starbond for some reason.

Rob, looks fantastic! Well done on the complicated assembly. A few nights ago I was trying to do something similar on a 1/700 build I was working on. I didn't like the kit support poles, so I made new ones out of brass rod. Took a while to get everything lined up for sure. Mine wasn't anywhere near as complicated as yours, so mucho respecto for your work! If you don't mind me asking, do you have a good way to cut brass tube? I don't think you can use a typical metal cutter as it will crush the ends. Do you saw yours? I think i have a sawing jig that can work for brass tube, but just curious if you have another easy way to cut it.

My condolences Ernie. May he RIP.