JeroenPeters

Hi Grant, Thnx! As a matter of fact I will severely weather it since I'm building the captured RAF P VF241 sample. This one was flown, tested, crashed, repaired. I managed to blend the wing root offset in nicely. Almost ready for paint. Also added a control rod in the aft fuel access section. This item is very prominent in photo's.

Thnx Guys! Well... the fit of the fuselage to the tail wasn't that good... Could have been my own doing, but a bad fit still. Brute force worked in the end. Also managed to get the wings on and am now working on blending in the seems. Using a riveter and scriber to restore lost surface detail.

Nice! Really cool. And great photo's too...

OK! This is right up my alley! And something i miss on a lot of WnW builds. These planes saw rough conditions, so this makes sense! Thanks again! Cheers, Jeroen

That's Riggin Beautiful!!

Hi John, Thnx! I used the fullEduard set designed for the old Hasegawa kit and the newer Eduard color set with only the instrument panel. This set is also designed for the Hasegawa kit

Oh wow, wow and maybe just one more... wow! Thank you so much for sharing all these tutorials for us. Really helpful and great to have here. Thanks..

Hi Jan, Great to see you picking up this kit and what a start! I'm sure I'll see it in the flesh one day at a show in Belgium (or the Netherlands). Really liking it so far. Best regards, Jeroen

That's a very good point cees. I was going to do that. The nice thing is that you can use a brush and water to 'melt' the snow where you want. I'll do that in selected areas. Like on the stairs.

Oh yes! Lovely. Neat trick. I have found myself looking through old left over PE many times looking for the right bezel. Next time, I'll try this one!

Since i saw the difference between bulged and hollow I'm very curious to see how you're gonna tackle that one! Really nice work so far!!

Are you saying my build sucks George No, i see what you mean. It does look like a Dyson! After sanding out the seem in the spine I realized I had to re-scribe the round hatch. Since I hate re-scribing, I drilled this hatch out too. Only need the PE flange.

Oh man.... What a great instruction! And here I am.. happy when I get all the parts indicated in the instructions are added! Thanx again for sharing your ART with us!

Finally got the fuse together. Wings are not glued on yet. The fit is tricky! That's all I can say:

Hi George, If you use a permanent adhesive, it will bind and staf on. You can even rinse excess snow with water! Cheers, Jeroen

Thnx George, As said you can keep altering the look of the snow and build it up. It really adds texture as well:

Ok! So here goes. After doing my hair and managing to safe some for my model I filled the sieve. Be careful not to fill it to the brim. That way larger amounts of snow might fall over the edge: I think you can compare the substance with powder sugar. Very very fine. Only when you look up close, you'll notice it's glistening like... snow! And when you make it wet, i looks like... molten snow! Quite incredible stuff. I sprayed the model with the hair laquer (George, you paying attention?) and tapped the sieve above it. As it fell next to the model, I blew it against the model. That gave a really interesting effect: Also note that I wrapped the figure with wet tissue paper to protect it from the snow. I'm using different techniques on this model. In the end I'll make the effects uniform. The nice thing is that you can keep altering the effects by brushing excess snow off and putting it back on in a different style. I will continue playing with this model, but I think you'll get the idea. Have a look on the website for different techniques and effects. Conclusion: I have seen many winter diorama's at model shows and only a few that got the snow and ice look just right. I think that this product will make it a walk in the park. It takes some practice and time, but the results can be quite amazing. If you are an armour modeler this stuff is a need to have. The full kit as reviewed is available at 22 pounds. One refill bag is available at 8 pounds. Both can be bought here: http://precisioniceandsnow.myshopify.com Thanks to Precision Ice and Snow for the review sample (and the T-shirt!). Jeroen Peters

Next step: before sprinkling on the snow with your sieve, spray the area that needs to be covered with an adhesive. This can be Photo mount, spray mount, hair spray or something else. When using hair spray you might want to change the spray cap (if possible) to get a better spray. Some hair laquers tend to be a bit too misty. It's best to place a non sticky surface behind the model to catch the snow that doesn't land on the model. This way you can re-use this. The instructions indicate that the best control will be obtained when holding the model in one hand and sprinkling the snow with the other. Especially when you want the snow to have that 'wind blown' look from one side. This is what I use for larger chipping effects and will now also use as adhesive. It's in dutch, but I guess you can guess it says: Hair Laquer.

PRECISION ICE AND SNOW for the realistic depiction of snow and ice effect in all scale modelling. Introduction When this product was brought to my attention by fellow LSM staff member Doogs I thought: I know that stuff.You mix it with white glue and water and smear it on your model. I have used products like that in the past and was never happy with the results. Not natural. Too random and blobby. When trying to confirm my first thoughts I went to the website: www.precisioniceandsnow.com . The first photo of an english taxicab made me look a bit further than my nose (as we say in Holland). Browsing a bit further through their site I found it difficult to discern between real and unreal. The stuff I used to use has crystals that are way too large in size. This however looks like the real deal. So I volunteered for this review and met up with Steve and his wife at the Telford model show. Steve showed me examples of different applications of the snow and ice. Wet snow, light powder snow, snow blown by the wind from one side,… amazing… Steve proudly showing his product at Telford: The Box The product comes in a very sturdy black box. (I also got a T-shirt, but I guess that’s just one of the perks of reviewing for LSM:) After opening it up I found two pretty heavy bottles of Snow medium. A stainless steel sieve and two sheets of instructions. The product is chemically and biologically safe. Non toxic and non hazardous. That’s nice to know! My Model The model I took from my cabinet to test the snow on is a 1/35 Stürer Emil from Trumpeter. It has Friulmodel metal tracks and the full Voyager upgrade: Metal barrel, resin mantel, PE fenders, brackets and interior and masked stenciling. Just to prove how much confidence I have in this stuff! As you can see I have used a little bit of my 'old product' on this model some years ago. Time to do it right!! NOTE: No Precision Ice and Snow has been used on the model shown here. Yet! Stay tuned for the second part of this review: The application

Hi Jim, It's actually quite simple if you use the right materials. And cheap. I use a base of acrylic light brown. Let it dry well. Then make some small dots with brown (burnt sienna) artist oils. Good quality oils. And then start smearing a wide flat brush, slightly damp with rectified (non aggressive) terpentine until you reach the effect you're looking for. Just try it on a test piece. If something goes wrong, post it here and I'll see what's up! Cheers, Jeroen

Bertl! Wow! Thank you so much for sharing these techniques! They really add so much life and individuality to the WnW kits. Cheers, Jeroen

Really cool build. Your weathering technique is quite unique and striking. Keep them coming!

Here's whats visible through the hatch. Needs rivet detail.

Thnx Erik! This pic clearly shows the ribbing I was talking about on the inside gun bay. Going through the PE spares box to find something suitable.

Here's some progress on the gun bays. Jim brought it to my attention that there is an ugly seem on the outside gun bay wall. In reality there isn't and in reality there are reinforcement ribs. These will be added later. I cut small pieces of plastic card and am now trimming them to a good fit. I'm lazy, so I'm not making exact fittings over the total length. Only what can be seen. I also opened another hatch, which will reveal the air pressure reservoir that powers the gun. Number 2 in the diagram above. And I will off course add wiring. Then I added some Eduard PE to the skid. The Meng skid has a strange stack of cubes, which should look like Eduard crafted it. A hinge for the middle arm. Then I sanded the two 'arrows' from the bottom of the skid and replaced them with the more detailed Eduard ones'.